ACMOC
Login
ACMOC
1926 Thirty Project

1926 Thirty Project

Showing 1 to 7 of 7 results
dieselfreakcjw
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to dieselfreakcjw
Posts: 91
Thank you received: 0
Hello everyone, well I finally got the thirty brought home this past weekend and started tearing into it. I gave up trying to figure out a way to pull it up on to our trailer and haul it so I just hired a roll back wrecker to come get it, it was surprisingly inexpensive and we had it loaded and to my house within an hour whereas I would have spent half the day getting it home.
[attachment=23483]20140517_212026205_iOS.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=23484]20140517_220125093_iOS.jpg[/attachment]
Unloaded and working on getting the blade off

[attachment=23485]20140517_235259479_iOS.jpg[/attachment]
Blade off and working on getting the support for the block and tackle off of the radiator

[attachment=23486]20140518_011055584_iOS.jpg[/attachment]
Support finally off revelaing the upper tank of the radiator there is still some red visible on the lettering under the yellow

[attachment=23487]20140518_025935786_iOS.jpg[/attachment]
Getting ready to take the head off

[attachment=23488]20140518_035452054_iOS.jpg[/attachment]
finally off

[attachment=23489]20140518_042024624_iOS.jpg[/attachment]
Cylinders coming off, there are no rust pits in the cylinders just small amounts of surface rust that a hone will take care of

[attachment=23490]20140518_044743813_iOS.jpg[/attachment]
Not even a single stuck ring

[attachment=23491]20140518_051827088_iOS.jpg[/attachment]
Someone has poured a new bearing for the number one cylinder as it has a different shell than the other three.

[attachment=23492]20140518_064224448_iOS.jpg[/attachment]
Radiator off and gear case coming apart, the fan bearings are shot as is the thrust bearing and the brass sleeve for the governor but all easily obtained/made parts.

[attachment=23495]20140518_045938786_iOS.jpg[/attachment]
Everything looks clean in here except the oil pan is cracked probably due to the dipstick being gone and allowing water in it to freeze.

[attachment=23493]20140519_000026994_iOS.jpg[/attachment]
Engine pulled and I also got the fly wheel off which isnt shown, does anyone have any tricks for the flywheel bolts? They are a 2 sided bolt so I wound up using a 6 point socket that would just go over the bolt head and I put 2 pieces of a hard washer between the flats of the socket and the flats of the bolt to turn it, cumbersome but it worked ive definitely got to figure out a better way for reassembly.

[attachment=23494]20140519_000038268_iOS.jpg[/attachment]
88 years worth of grease and oil built up its about an inch thick.

I didnt take any more picture but the factory center main bearing was a bad pour, there are a few chunks broken out of it and you can see where it just wrinkled up under the surface of the bearing so will I be able to get away with just pouring one half of the bearing or will I have to do both halves? Also the wrist pin bushing in the number 2 rod has come loose from the rod, is there a source for these or will I have to make one?
Attachment
Attachment
Attachment
Attachment
Attachment
Attachment
Attachment
Attachment
Attachment
Attachment
Attachment
Attachment
Attachment
Caterpillar 30 PS244
International Harvester T-40
John Deere 720 Diesel
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, May 22, 2014 4:51 AM
Steve A
Offline
Member
Send a private message to Steve A
Posts: 1,254
Thank you received: 0
It looks like your off to a good start, The Thirty is one of my Favorite
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, May 23, 2014 5:10 AM
dieselfreakcjw
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to dieselfreakcjw
Posts: 91
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Steve A:
It looks like your off to a good start, The Thirty is one of my Favorite
Made a little more progress this weekend, got to spend a little time in my friend's machine shop. The water pump/magneto/governor shaft on my machine was completely shot with rust pits and massive grooves where the packing glands were so I decided to just start off new. I found a piece of 1" polished stainless steel shafting and built one out of that. The sliding sleeve for the governor which rides on the peg on the end of the shaft was also completely shot so I built one of those as well. Now I just have to get the remainder of the old shaft out of the impeller im thinking the easiest thing to do is going to be to machine the old shaft out of the impeller since it looks like its pretty well rusted in place and im afraid of breaking the delicate looking impeller in the press.

[attachment=23680]20140531_180301467_iOS.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=23681]20140601_025128766_iOS.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=23679]20140601_032324205_iOS (2).jpg[/attachment]
Attachment
Attachment
Attachment
Caterpillar 30 PS244
International Harvester T-40
John Deere 720 Diesel
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Mon, Jun 2, 2014 12:00 AM
dieselfreakcjw
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to dieselfreakcjw
Posts: 91
Thank you received: 0
Reply to dieselfreakcjw:
Made a little more progress this weekend, got to spend a little time in my friend's machine shop. The water pump/magneto/governor shaft on my machine was completely shot with rust pits and massive grooves where the packing glands were so I decided to just start off new. I found a piece of 1" polished stainless steel shafting and built one out of that. The sliding sleeve for the governor which rides on the peg on the end of the shaft was also completely shot so I built one of those as well. Now I just have to get the remainder of the old shaft out of the impeller im thinking the easiest thing to do is going to be to machine the old shaft out of the impeller since it looks like its pretty well rusted in place and im afraid of breaking the delicate looking impeller in the press.

[attachment=23680]20140531_180301467_iOS.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=23681]20140601_025128766_iOS.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=23679]20140601_032324205_iOS (2).jpg[/attachment]
Attachment
Attachment
Attachment
Finally got the crank gear pulled off today and got the crank fished out of the block and after further inspection I'll need to re pour all three main bearings as they all have some pretty serious cracks or porosity. Since they're all a removable shell I've decided the easiest route to go is to create a mock up shaft and pour them on the work bench.
Caterpillar 30 PS244
International Harvester T-40
John Deere 720 Diesel
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Mon, Jun 2, 2014 12:35 PM
dieselfreakcjw
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to dieselfreakcjw
Posts: 91
Thank you received: 0
Reply to dieselfreakcjw:
Finally got the crank gear pulled off today and got the crank fished out of the block and after further inspection I'll need to re pour all three main bearings as they all have some pretty serious cracks or porosity. Since they're all a removable shell I've decided the easiest route to go is to create a mock up shaft and pour them on the work bench.
Hello again everyone, slowly but surely making some progress. Got the block back from the machine shop they hot tanked it for me to get all the goo out of it, the wrist pin bushing in the number two rod was loose and the bore was worn egg shaped so theyre truing up the hole for me then ill need to make new bushings for all four rods. Still hung on pouring the babbit though since its something im not familiar with doing, supposedly the shop thats fixing my rod can pour babbit if thats the case im thinking ill let them do it and ill just scrape them in. I did find a correct mag Bosch ZR4IS on ebay has a good hot spark. I tore into it to clean it up and found the ball bearings on the armature are shot and a few of the springs inside the impulse mechanism were incorrect so I ordered all of that from Mark's magneto service, knowledgable guy and fast service. I also did some scrounging on ebay and bought all the ball bearings I need thus far for the fan drive and for the clutch disc. I talked to a shop called All Friction back east about re-lining my drive clutch plates they figured around 80-90 dollars per plate does this seem fair? Is there any particular shop you guys like to use for brakes/clutch?
Caterpillar 30 PS244
International Harvester T-40
John Deere 720 Diesel
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Jul 3, 2014 2:22 AM
drujinin
Offline
Send a private message to drujinin
Posts: 3,852
Thank you received: 0
Reply to dieselfreakcjw:
Hello again everyone, slowly but surely making some progress. Got the block back from the machine shop they hot tanked it for me to get all the goo out of it, the wrist pin bushing in the number two rod was loose and the bore was worn egg shaped so theyre truing up the hole for me then ill need to make new bushings for all four rods. Still hung on pouring the babbit though since its something im not familiar with doing, supposedly the shop thats fixing my rod can pour babbit if thats the case im thinking ill let them do it and ill just scrape them in. I did find a correct mag Bosch ZR4IS on ebay has a good hot spark. I tore into it to clean it up and found the ball bearings on the armature are shot and a few of the springs inside the impulse mechanism were incorrect so I ordered all of that from Mark's magneto service, knowledgable guy and fast service. I also did some scrounging on ebay and bought all the ball bearings I need thus far for the fan drive and for the clutch disc. I talked to a shop called All Friction back east about re-lining my drive clutch plates they figured around 80-90 dollars per plate does this seem fair? Is there any particular shop you guys like to use for brakes/clutch?
This inquiry commes up once to twice a year. Usually boils down to using a local one that someone else had good success with. I do believe in the last discussion on this that one in particular was recommended as they claimed to have "Original Dimension Specs".
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Jul 3, 2014 6:27 PM
jmvmopar
Offline
Send a private message to jmvmopar
Posts: 341
Thank you received: 0
Reply to drujinin:
This inquiry commes up once to twice a year. Usually boils down to using a local one that someone else had good success with. I do believe in the last discussion on this that one in particular was recommended as they claimed to have "Original Dimension Specs".
I had rod bearings poured for me at a place called Antique Engine Bearing Service in California. He mainly does Ford flat head V8 stuff if I remember correctly.

I had to ship them the rods and old bearings, they did a great job. The guy was a bit nervous about doing the job without having the crank to measure himself. But I measured them and they were spot on to what I measured.

For main bearings though, I'm sure they would want the block so he could align hone. But you'd have to call them.

If I were going to try something like this, I'd send him both shells and measure the inside diameter of one of the other main bearings when bolted in the block. That way you could get them as close to the same size as possible. I don't know how critical it is because Cat gives you a ton of clearance and still be in spec.

Oh and the price to get the bearings done even with shipping was slightly cheaper than new Cat.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Jul 3, 2014 8:36 PM
dieselfreakcjw
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to dieselfreakcjw
Posts: 91
Thank you received: 0
Reply to jmvmopar:
I had rod bearings poured for me at a place called Antique Engine Bearing Service in California. He mainly does Ford flat head V8 stuff if I remember correctly.

I had to ship them the rods and old bearings, they did a great job. The guy was a bit nervous about doing the job without having the crank to measure himself. But I measured them and they were spot on to what I measured.

For main bearings though, I'm sure they would want the block so he could align hone. But you'd have to call them.

If I were going to try something like this, I'd send him both shells and measure the inside diameter of one of the other main bearings when bolted in the block. That way you could get them as close to the same size as possible. I don't know how critical it is because Cat gives you a ton of clearance and still be in spec.

Oh and the price to get the bearings done even with shipping was slightly cheaper than new Cat.
Thanks for the replies I hope everyone had a good weekend! Ill try to maybe dig up the thread this was discussed in and have some luck although the shop I talked to was able to look up the machine and he knew the dimensions as well (maybe theres some kind of clutch bible out there? Ha ha) so I may just go with them they were I thought reasonably priced at $80 per clutch plate and the brake bands he said would be more but needs dimensions to give me a quote. I talked to a fellow listed in the parts/serivce sticky thread named Mike up in idaho, seemed like a knowledgable fellow and is just going to do a rough pour on my bearings and then ill take them local and have them line bored in the block to keep timing gear lash within spec. Time always seems to be a limiting factor here having a 10 hour a day job with a rotating on call schedule, work is always getting in the way of play time :tongue:.
Caterpillar 30 PS244
International Harvester T-40
John Deere 720 Diesel
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Tue, Jul 8, 2014 1:54 AM
Showing 1 to 7 of 7 results
YouTube Video Placeholder

Follow Us on Social Media

Our channel highlights machines from the earliest Holt and Best track-type tractors, equipment from the start of Caterpillar in 1925, up to units built in the mid-1960s.

Upcoming Events

CAFES 2025 TULARE, CALIFORNIA

Chapter Fifteen

| Tulare, California

Wheatlands Warracknabeal Easter Rally

Chapter Nineteen

| 34 Henty Hwy, Warracknabeal

Veerkamp Open House 2025

Chapter Fifteen

| Placerville, CA

HAMILTON PASTURAL MUSEUM

Chapter Nineteen

| Cnr Hiller Lane and Ballarat Road, Hamilton, Vic, 3300
View Calendar
ACMOC

Antique Caterpillar
Machinery Owners Club

1115 Madison St NE # 1117
Salem, OR 97301

[email protected]

Terms & Privacy
Website developed by AdCo

Testimonials

"I also joined a year ago. had been on here a couple of times as a non-member and found the info very helpful so I got a one year subscription (not very expensive at all) to try it out. I really like all the resources on here so I just got a three year. I think its a very small price for what you can get out of this site."
-Jason N

Join Today!