17A Starting mechanism adjustment

are you talking about the bendix or the clutch?

If the starter clutch isn't staying engaged by snapping into place then you may need to try turning the collar the other direction. The book may say to turn it a specific direction to get the snap, but the solution may actually be to turn it the other direction.

If you are talking about the bendix, then adjusting that involves tightening the screws on the two latches on the bendix. This adjusts the rpm level at which the bendix will disengage. However, if you tighten them too much, it may not disengage at all.

If the bendix engages and stays engaged before you engage the starting clutch, then you might try easing the starting clutch into engagement or pull out the throttle on your pony motor so it runs at a lower rpm.

If the bendix just doesn't latch at all, the latches may not be aligned to the stop to latch onto, or the latches could just be worn out too much to latch onto the stop to keep the bendix in place until the diesel fires up.

I think you talking about the starting engine transmission kicking before the big motor start you need to removed the rear cover starting engine transmission and there is a big spring and 2 big nuts in bottom and you need to loosed the big lock nut and tight the firt one on the spring just little bit for adjustement and dont forget to tight the lock nut.

Is it the early or late type engagement mechanism?
Late type has a single spring loaded dog that engages a notch on the engagement rod. The dog has an engagement adjustment but requires the parts not being excessively worn.

[quote="Old Magnet"]Is it the early or late type engagement mechanism?
Late type has a single spring loaded dog that engages a notch on the engagement rod. The dog has an engagement adjustment but requires the parts not being excessively worn.[/quote]

I’m guessing its a late type as the serial is very high (19292). And all I see is a single spring loaded knob that you pry out.

I suppose I’d have to have it all apart to know if the parts are excessively worn or not?

Seems you're referring to the clutch adjustment knob. I'm referring to the engagement latch mechanism that releases with centrifugal force. It is spring loaded/assisted and also has an adjustment.

Hi Team,
as ever a Serial Number saves to-ing and fro-ing to establish what change level your machine is.
The plunger type came in at S/No 17A15174.
As I cannot post scans at present I cannot post a scan of the procedure and cut away as shown in a Product Bulletin Aug. 20-1960, page 4.
From memory you need to remove the pony transmission cover and get down to the lower shaft of same--there should be a adjustable retainer nut, spring and plunger in there so that the nut can be screwed down slightly to increase the unlatching RPM's.

With the pinion unlatched you should be able to back out the spring tension adjuster nut--counting the number of turns and/or measuring the top of the nut height from the housing it is fitted into--so as to reinstall to same depth plus maybe a 1/2 turn more, as a guess, remove the spring and plunger and check the plunger edge for wear--maybe turn the plunger one half of a turn so any wear is opposite the engaging/latching load side.

If you goof on measuring and counting turns a measurement between the under side of the nut and the housing is given as 0.188" as a starting point.

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.