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15A D8 Clutch locked out.

15A D8 Clutch locked out.

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mhinckley
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My first blog, please be patient. We changed all the fluids and filters on this machine, started it up and the clutch was froze out, the top fork on the clutch won't move a bit the bottom one seems too. Really has us baffled, we did have the vent on the converter open when starting the cat, but how that would effect the clutch I don't know. Changed the hyd. Filter that's in the line. What else could cause this:help
Has anyone ever had the clutch lock out on one of these machines?
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Sat, Feb 27, 2016 12:05 AM
edb
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Hi,
welcome to the BB.
Boy, only ever did one of these up in about 1963/4.
If by frozen you mean the vertical linkage into the clutch housing is solidly locked, I can only think that the upper clutch throw out fork has worn right thru and is wedged against its trunion on the thrust bearing carrier thereby locking the mechanism.
If any of the over-centre locking dogs on the clutch engaging mechanism failed you should still have some rotational and for and aft movement in the vertical shaft.
Could water have gotten in and ice has frozen the linkages--just guessing you washed the unit before servicing it.

I also cannot see that changing fluids and filters could cause this unless there is an air lock in the hydraulic system of any sort of booster that may be on the clutch linkage but I do not recall these having a booster on the clutch.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Sat, Feb 27, 2016 7:45 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to edb:
Hi,
welcome to the BB.
Boy, only ever did one of these up in about 1963/4.
If by frozen you mean the vertical linkage into the clutch housing is solidly locked, I can only think that the upper clutch throw out fork has worn right thru and is wedged against its trunion on the thrust bearing carrier thereby locking the mechanism.
If any of the over-centre locking dogs on the clutch engaging mechanism failed you should still have some rotational and for and aft movement in the vertical shaft.
Could water have gotten in and ice has frozen the linkages--just guessing you washed the unit before servicing it.

I also cannot see that changing fluids and filters could cause this unless there is an air lock in the hydraulic system of any sort of booster that may be on the clutch linkage but I do not recall these having a booster on the clutch.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
The top and bottom clutch release forks are tied together. Not likely one would move without the other unless something is broken. There is no booster involved. The clutch linkage is part of the transmission interlock mechanism. Could be something amiss there but I'm not sure what. I'd be looking to see if the interlock shaft that blocks the plungers is able to move and the spring loaded link operational.
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Sat, Feb 27, 2016 10:26 AM
mhinckley
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Reply to Old Magnet:
The top and bottom clutch release forks are tied together. Not likely one would move without the other unless something is broken. There is no booster involved. The clutch linkage is part of the transmission interlock mechanism. Could be something amiss there but I'm not sure what. I'd be looking to see if the interlock shaft that blocks the plungers is able to move and the spring loaded link operational.
Thanks Guys,
I've run this thing about 50 hours, ripping in water line , and now dozing dirt to level a field, it's quite the beast. Anyway we didn't wash it, but the plug in the bottom of the clutch is gone, looks like for a long time, but we haven't been any mud or water, with it.
To clarify on the clutch forks, the bottom one does not move but a hair, but the top one is solid.
I've got the service manual and parts book, so maybe me and my old cohort, can figure it out, just were'nt to egear to drop the clutch and converter. Our shops a dirt nob.
Thanks again
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Sat, Feb 27, 2016 10:40 PM
DPete
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Reply to mhinckley:
Thanks Guys,
I've run this thing about 50 hours, ripping in water line , and now dozing dirt to level a field, it's quite the beast. Anyway we didn't wash it, but the plug in the bottom of the clutch is gone, looks like for a long time, but we haven't been any mud or water, with it.
To clarify on the clutch forks, the bottom one does not move but a hair, but the top one is solid.
I've got the service manual and parts book, so maybe me and my old cohort, can figure it out, just were'nt to egear to drop the clutch and converter. Our shops a dirt nob.
Thanks again
Plug is gone? Don't know much about 15a's but the 14a's had an oil clutch
1962 D4C
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Sat, Feb 27, 2016 11:24 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to DPete:
Plug is gone? Don't know much about 15a's but the 14a's had an oil clutch
15A's have a single plate dry clutch built much like the oil clutch.
Can you detect any movement of the sliding sleeve/collar? Maybe by prying.
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Sat, Feb 27, 2016 11:48 PM
mhinckley
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Reply to Old Magnet:
15A's have a single plate dry clutch built much like the oil clutch.
Can you detect any movement of the sliding sleeve/collar? Maybe by prying.
Yea we tried to pry on the collar and also adjust the clutch both ways, could only move it one or two cogs ether way. it's pretty tight. Haven't got all the right tools (bigger hammer, different pry bars) but don't want to break anything. I heard from a guy in Australia that there might be a linkage between the trany and the clutch that keep it from popping out of gear, anybody know anything about that?
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Sun, Feb 28, 2016 12:15 AM
sdmuleman
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Reply to mhinckley:
Yea we tried to pry on the collar and also adjust the clutch both ways, could only move it one or two cogs ether way. it's pretty tight. Haven't got all the right tools (bigger hammer, different pry bars) but don't want to break anything. I heard from a guy in Australia that there might be a linkage between the trany and the clutch that keep it from popping out of gear, anybody know anything about that?
I have a pdf of the cat service manual, pm me your email if you want it. Might help a bit if you don't have one.
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Sun, Feb 28, 2016 12:20 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to mhinckley:
Yea we tried to pry on the collar and also adjust the clutch both ways, could only move it one or two cogs ether way. it's pretty tight. Haven't got all the right tools (bigger hammer, different pry bars) but don't want to break anything. I heard from a guy in Australia that there might be a linkage between the trany and the clutch that keep it from popping out of gear, anybody know anything about that?


Yes I saw that post on HEF. That is the interlock mechanism that I was referring to. Normally prevents any gear change without disengaging the clutch. I'm thinking that if one of the detent plungers was stuck it might interfere with clutch lever operation. I'd be looking for something minor before diving in.

Check section 110.1 in your service manual.
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Sun, Feb 28, 2016 12:43 AM
mhinckley
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Reply to Old Magnet:


Yes I saw that post on HEF. That is the interlock mechanism that I was referring to. Normally prevents any gear change without disengaging the clutch. I'm thinking that if one of the detent plungers was stuck it might interfere with clutch lever operation. I'd be looking for something minor before diving in.

Check section 110.1 in your service manual.
Thanks Old Magnet,
Looking at the manual, I think i see what your talking about, we're going to tie into it Monday, and see what damage can be done or hopefully undone. Jaluhn, I guess I don't need your PFD, but thanks anyway.
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Sun, Feb 28, 2016 1:02 AM
tctractors
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Reply to mhinckley:
Thanks Old Magnet,
Looking at the manual, I think i see what your talking about, we're going to tie into it Monday, and see what damage can be done or hopefully undone. Jaluhn, I guess I don't need your PFD, but thanks anyway.
The clutch plate is famous for flying to bits, it should only be engaged at low engine speed ( well that's how I was instructed to drive this style of tractor) with the diesel torque getting the loading as the high idle speed was reached, you drive these tractors in a differing style to the oil pressure fed 14A, when I had a clutch play up it was always torn to bits? I hope you have better luck as its a dirty job to tackle.
tctractors
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Sun, Feb 28, 2016 4:15 AM
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