12E Grader power control unit clutches

I'm guessing Deas Plant will respond on this thread so I have a question regarding Sam's unit that might be helpful, which is:
- can the clutch dogs be refurbished to restore original function i.e. machined to present fresh engagement faces that make engagement reliable and not be prone to popping out? ( I realize they can be swapped to other positions to present the opposite unworn face, but if this has already been done, can the dogs be usefully refurbished?)
- how much of a clean engagement surface is required? This question pertains to trying to minimize the amount of material to be machined from the clutch faces

[quote="Neil"]I'm guessing Deas Plant will respond on this thread so I have a question regarding Sam's unit that might be helpful, which is:
- can the clutch dogs be refurbished to restore original function i.e. machined to present fresh engagement faces that make engagement reliable and not be prone to popping out? ( I realize they can be swapped to other positions to present the opposite unworn face, but if this has already been done, can the dogs be usefully refurbished?)
- how much of a clean engagement surface is required? This question pertains to trying to minimize the amount of material to be machined from the clutch faces[/quote]

i rebuilt a box many years ago and resurfaced the wear areas on the dogs. it did improve the function"a little".

The clutch dogs are 6 each 2d8669 on the rear and 2d8670 toward the front. Of course you would also have gears 4d1795 x 10 and 2 special 4d1794 duplex gears with mating dogs. I am guessing the gears might be harder than the dog clutches???

Might need some 2d365 springs to center the clutch levers in the neutral position

From Deas' post, the next time someone has an as-new condition face in hand, could s/he measure the profile dimensions so it can be posted here and then it's available for folks that want to refurbish

years ago when I had a 17K 12E, purchased 2nd hand and flogged out, I rebuilt much of it including the dog clutches. I rebuilt them with low hydrogen welding rods and trimmed them with a 4" angle grinder. They worked exceptionally well, could lift a tandem off the ground with not a lot of pressure on the blade lift control lever. When they started to crack too much up the bush, I would back up a steep bank, pull the front off the control box and swap from left to right etc. When next near the work shop would rebuild them again. I generally got about 18 months work out of one side of them. For me this was a cheap and easy fix.

Wombat

Thanks all. That is very helpful.

Sam

Did you note the part in Dease explanation about the hi-lift gear case. Check the wear in those gears first. If they are warn and give huge resistance the clutches will kick out. Same goes for the circle wear/ adjustment and lack of lubrication will cause kicking. Do the keyways in the lift shafts look like they have been used?