fuel rack not moving easy has been sitting.

Hi,
Sometimes the Injector Pump Plungers get sticky and won't let the rack move freely. Roll the engine over and see if the pumps are moving up & down. If one (or more) sticks it won't rotate and will keep the rack from moving. A good penetrating oil might help but the fuel itself should do it.

Hi,
Sometimes the Injector Pump Plungers get sticky and won't let the rack move freely. Roll the engine over and see if the pumps are moving up & down. If one (or more) sticks it won't rotate and will keep the rack from moving. A good penetrating oil might help but the fuel itself should do it.

Hi zep,
resist the temptaion to force the rack to move as you can cause the gear to turn on the plunger and ruin the factory set position.

Spray your favourite loose juice on the plungers and lifters.

The best way I have found to free up the plungers is to gently lever any of the stuck lifters/plungers up and down until each one is free to return by the return spring pressure/force.

You will find when they all can move freely up and down the rack should then move easily.

When you go to start the main have the air cleaner pre screen off and a suitable piece of steel plate or wood to close off the air to the main if it tends to overspeed. Also have a 3/4" open end wrench at hand and after blocking the air flow loosen the injection lines to finally stop the engine--make sure to wear safety specs and keep your skin clear of the injection/fuel spray or you can get severe blood poisoning from any fuel injected into you skin.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

PS Compliments of the Season to One and All.

I will try the process i recieved from you guys tomorrow and see what happens.I will keep you informed of the progress.Tim

Bear in mind, those pumps are real easy to get out and reinstall with no problem of messing up the clearance. Just be sure they go back into the same hole they came out of. If they are really sticky, pull them, put them in a can of penetrating oil, work them until free and reinstall. (You will need new rings on the fuel passages.)

ALWAYS BE SURE THAT THE PLUNGER GOES BACK INTO THE PUMP THAT IT CAME OUT OF. These are NOT a one size fits all, they are individually fit.

On my 5J, a little penetrant shot onto the back of the rack through the throttle control side plate has always loosened it up. That's a dry housing on the back of the governor/injection system and seems to be the place most likely to get sticky.

And heed all of the forgoing advice!!!

This thread helped me keep my hammer in the toolbox and may have saved a lot of grief. While bringing my D8 35A back to life after a decade sitting in the field, I found i could decrease rpm after starting but was not able to increase rpm moving the governor control in the opposite direction. (Sweet to see that old machine idling smoothly at low rpm, however).

Inside the governor housing, found everything moving as expected (including the decelerator mechanism) EXCEPT the rack did not move in/out. It did wiggle laterally a tiny bit, pointing to a stuck piston, as described by the contributors.

Removed the injector pump access cover and found the stuck piston. Not surprisingly, it served the only cylinder that was not producing power (ascertained by cracking the nut on top of the injector pump). A bit tricky to lever the pump housing off of the top with the piston stuck inside but my PB Penetrating Catalyst clearly helped. Cleaned up and ready to start but out of time this weekend.

Having something handy to smother air intake in case rack sticks open is something I wouldn't have thought of and a great piece of advice!

When the rack was stuck at low idle, I moved the Start/Run lever to Start to shut the engine down. Is this harmful? In any case, it doesn't work very well when the engine is fully warm, as it diesels along at very low rpm. Killed it by cracking fuel line nut on injector pump.

An easy way to kill the engine if the throttle will not go below low idle would be to put it in high gear, hold the brakes, and engage the clutch stalling he engine. Not sure I would want to hold valves open when running.

Hi Team,
to shut the engine off you need to forcibly thrust the control lever forwards to the extreme forward position to overcome the Low Idle Detent, conversely you need to snap the control lever back past the detent to get fuel injection and Rpm's.
The detent, if dry of oil, can be quite resistive to movement past its effective position.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

[quote="edb"]Hi Team,
to shut the engine off you need to forcibly thrust the control lever forwards to the extreme forward position to overcome the Low Idle Detent, conversely you need to snap the control lever back past the detent to get fuel injection and Rpm's.
The detent, if dry of oil, can be quite resistive to movement past its effective position.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.[/quote]

Where can I apply some extra oil for the detent? I can see nice motion of the rack when moving the governor control lever thru a large range of motion, but do not feel the detent at the extreme forward end of the control movement. Where is the mechanism that provides that resistance at the shut-off end of the lever action?

I looked for it in the linkage all the way thru the two-part hub (decelerator) and don't see an obvious candidate. Possibility: after working on that stuck rack for a while I'm hearing a fair bit of ratcheting coming from the pawls and ring in the hub on moving the governor control handle. It stays in position where I put it, however, so I don't think they are too worn for use, per my 1960-vintage service manual.