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D4 starter pinion question

D4 starter pinion question

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jbernd56
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There has been several posts lately about the starting motor pinion, and while everybody is thinking about it I have a question. I have the transmission case cover off of my D4 2T Ser. #2451 at the present time and am wondering if there is a way to work on the two latches and what ever it is they latch to, from the flywheel side?? From what I can tell from the parts manual, it kinda looks like you can. (The one picture that could have been a lot bigger they decided to shrink and share with another part) but anyway. The pinion works well as far a sliding in and out, it just won't latch. I worked the latches and oiled them. I can start the diesel with it, I just have to hold the pinion lever all the time. At this point, I don't want to remove the clutch and everything. One more question while I'm here. Is part#3B889 the gasket around the top of the transmission case? In the book it says there are two of them. From what I see, it's one piece. Is there something that can be used instead of the called for gasket?
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Mon, Dec 5, 2011 11:04 AM
Colby
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Here is a good video on the operation of the starter pinion that might help you. It sounds like your latches or the stop (2A2350 what the latches lock on to) may be worn. Good luck!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vo0m1XBqdBY
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Tue, Dec 6, 2011 12:37 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Colby:
Here is a good video on the operation of the starter pinion that might help you. It sounds like your latches or the stop (2A2350 what the latches lock on to) may be worn. Good luck!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vo0m1XBqdBY
Yes, you can dismantle the drive parts from the flywheel side. Including the sleeve and pinion gear, the stop, plunger and springs. The cover gasket is two piece with diagonal cut joints. It's 3/8 in. square high density cork, fine grain, possibly a rubberized version, pretty stiff.

Use caution when removing the stop as it is under spring loading.

When you assemble the sleeve to the shaft, take advantage of the extra bolt holes in the sleeve to align the latches with the flats on the stop....I've had to shim the stop to do this in some cases.
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Tue, Dec 6, 2011 1:46 PM
jbernd56
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Yes, you can dismantle the drive parts from the flywheel side. Including the sleeve and pinion gear, the stop, plunger and springs. The cover gasket is two piece with diagonal cut joints. It's 3/8 in. square high density cork, fine grain, possibly a rubberized version, pretty stiff.

Use caution when removing the stop as it is under spring loading.

When you assemble the sleeve to the shaft, take advantage of the extra bolt holes in the sleeve to align the latches with the flats on the stop....I've had to shim the stop to do this in some cases.
That is what I wanted to hear. I have seen the video and it is excellent! I will probably need to rebuild the clutch assembly at a later date. I was just outside pounding on the steering clutches and I think I detected some movement! Maybe just wishfull thinking. Florin trac. does not have the gaskets. Havent tried anywhere else yet. Going to town now for more tools!!
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Wed, Dec 7, 2011 12:24 AM
bernie
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Reply to jbernd56:
That is what I wanted to hear. I have seen the video and it is excellent! I will probably need to rebuild the clutch assembly at a later date. I was just outside pounding on the steering clutches and I think I detected some movement! Maybe just wishfull thinking. Florin trac. does not have the gaskets. Havent tried anywhere else yet. Going to town now for more tools!!
jbernd56-
Did you adjust the pinion latch screws? Seems you adjust them a half a turn of the screw for adjustment because of the cotter pin locks that slip in the head slot, then test it. Each are supposed to be adjusted equally. I know what you mean-I got mine dialed in quite a while ago by making the adjustments.
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Wed, Dec 7, 2011 12:46 PM
TimMcAfee
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Reply to bernie:
jbernd56-
Did you adjust the pinion latch screws? Seems you adjust them a half a turn of the screw for adjustment because of the cotter pin locks that slip in the head slot, then test it. Each are supposed to be adjusted equally. I know what you mean-I got mine dialed in quite a while ago by making the adjustments.
Try Ann at Erie Cat. I was suprised how many old parts she found for me. 814-899-2577
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Wed, Dec 7, 2011 8:36 PM
jbernd56
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Reply to TimMcAfee:
Try Ann at Erie Cat. I was suprised how many old parts she found for me. 814-899-2577
I don't think adjusting the screws will help. I don't think there is anything there for them to latch on.
anyway it needs to be taken apart and given a good cleaning. Thanks for the tip on Erie Cat. Probably give em a call. Tomorrow I will try local Cat shop. Had pretty good luck with them so far. If not too cold tomorrow eve. will probably install re-done flywheel clutch
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Thu, Dec 8, 2011 6:50 AM
D4 Larry
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Yes, you can dismantle the drive parts from the flywheel side. Including the sleeve and pinion gear, the stop, plunger and springs. The cover gasket is two piece with diagonal cut joints. It's 3/8 in. square high density cork, fine grain, possibly a rubberized version, pretty stiff.

Use caution when removing the stop as it is under spring loading.

When you assemble the sleeve to the shaft, take advantage of the extra bolt holes in the sleeve to align the latches with the flats on the stop....I've had to shim the stop to do this in some cases.
[quote="Old Magnet"]Yes, you can dismantle the drive parts from the flywheel side. Including the sleeve and pinion gear, the stop, plunger and springs. The cover gasket is two piece with diagonal cut joints. It's 3/8 in. square high density cork, fine grain, possibly a rubberized version, pretty stiff.

Use caution when removing the stop as it is under spring loading.

When you assemble the sleeve to the shaft, take advantage of the extra bolt holes in the sleeve to align the latches with the flats on the stop....I've had to shim the stop to do this in some cases.[/quote]

At sometime(probably sooner than later) I'm going to have to give the starter pinion assy on my D4 7u some attention.
The Serviceman's Reference Book says that you need to raise the starting motor 2" to pull the assy out, or is there a short cut to that procedeure. Are you talking about something different in the above quote.
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Thu, Dec 8, 2011 1:22 PM
gemdozer
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Reply to D4 Larry:
[quote="Old Magnet"]Yes, you can dismantle the drive parts from the flywheel side. Including the sleeve and pinion gear, the stop, plunger and springs. The cover gasket is two piece with diagonal cut joints. It's 3/8 in. square high density cork, fine grain, possibly a rubberized version, pretty stiff.

Use caution when removing the stop as it is under spring loading.

When you assemble the sleeve to the shaft, take advantage of the extra bolt holes in the sleeve to align the latches with the flats on the stop....I've had to shim the stop to do this in some cases.[/quote]

At sometime(probably sooner than later) I'm going to have to give the starter pinion assy on my D4 7u some attention.
The Serviceman's Reference Book says that you need to raise the starting motor 2" to pull the assy out, or is there a short cut to that procedeure. Are you talking about something different in the above quote.
I am still have some startor pinion parts and more
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Thu, Dec 8, 2011 6:38 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to gemdozer:
I am still have some startor pinion parts and more
D4 Larry,
The raise the pony procedure is for when you remove the whole assembly from the forward side of the housing. The above post is in reference to what you can work on from the flywheel side when you have access.
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Thu, Dec 8, 2011 11:10 PM
Colby
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Reply to D4 Larry:
[quote="Old Magnet"]Yes, you can dismantle the drive parts from the flywheel side. Including the sleeve and pinion gear, the stop, plunger and springs. The cover gasket is two piece with diagonal cut joints. It's 3/8 in. square high density cork, fine grain, possibly a rubberized version, pretty stiff.

Use caution when removing the stop as it is under spring loading.

When you assemble the sleeve to the shaft, take advantage of the extra bolt holes in the sleeve to align the latches with the flats on the stop....I've had to shim the stop to do this in some cases.[/quote]

At sometime(probably sooner than later) I'm going to have to give the starter pinion assy on my D4 7u some attention.
The Serviceman's Reference Book says that you need to raise the starting motor 2" to pull the assy out, or is there a short cut to that procedeure. Are you talking about something different in the above quote.
[quote="D4 Larry"]At sometime(probably sooner than later) I'm going to have to give the starter pinion assy on my D4 7u some attention.
The Serviceman's Reference Book says that you need to raise the starting motor 2" to pull the assy out, or is there a short cut to that procedeure. Are you talking about something different in the above quote.[/quote]

If you plan to pull the assembly out then yes the starting motor needs to be raised. Chances are the gasket between starter motor and base will tear and you will have to completely remove starter motor to get room to remove old gasket material.
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Sat, Dec 10, 2011 12:26 PM
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