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Motor grader questions

Motor grader questions

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kurly
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Hello, I'm new to this club. My friend is selling his Cat 212 9T 841 Chile.M.R 9T 2294 motor grader. He has some trouble starting it with the pony motor, but it starts within a couple feet with a pull from the backhoe. What year was it made? Was it made in Chile? It has a chipped or missing tooth in the differential and makes a clicking sound when running on the road (It's been like this for years). It has power steering( Maybe added?), Scaifer, 12:00 X 24 Tires (will need 2 soon). What should I be aware of? I have a history with antique farm tractors and old Harleys. He wants $1500.00 and I would use it to grade farm driveways.
Thanks in advance, Kurly
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Sat, Sep 24, 2011 11:44 PM
Old Magnet
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The grader is a 1949 model.
The engine has been replaced with a 1951 motor (The grader was produced from 1947 to 1956).

The machine is US built, only the Caterpillar trade mark was registered in Chile
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Sun, Sep 25, 2011 2:35 AM
Deas Plant.
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Reply to Old Magnet:
The grader is a 1949 model.
The engine has been replaced with a 1951 motor (The grader was produced from 1947 to 1956).

The machine is US built, only the Caterpillar trade mark was registered in Chile
Hi, Kurly.
Welkum to ther 'Yellow Fever' klub and ther 4um.

Firstly, there is no differential as such in these graders, just a crown wheel and pinion. The drive axle is solid right across to provide constant drive to both sides at all times to maximise traction. Remember, that these machines were built before 'slippery' diffs, torque proportioning and all that fancy stuff got developed to a point where it could stand the punishment that machines like graders commonly get - like everybody wants them to do the work of at least a D7.

Check out the front end, lean wheels, steering joints, axle pivots, etc.. As mentioned in another current thread on this BB (http://www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?13739-Hello-Guys!), the front end can be a bit 'exxy' to repair unless you can do a lot of the work yourself. Check the draught ball and all blade linkages for slack. There are heaps of adjustments for this, also described in the above thread. Check all drive boxes for oil and for the color/appearance of said oil - if any. Leaking drive boxes will need either seal replacement or constant topping up if you want to have a good service life from the machine.

The 212's, like most Cat graders, were pretty solid, reliable machines and could give a fair day's work in skilled hands. Many people say that the grader is the hardest machine of all to learn to operate and I would agree that there is a LOT to the ART of grader operation. How-wevver, if you stand back and look AT and INTO the machine, you may notice that the law of the lever applies VERY much to way these jiggers behave. I'll leave you to ponder that thought for a while and see what you come up with in response - - - if any.

Hope this helps.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Sun, Sep 25, 2011 6:20 AM
CarlsCAT
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Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, Kurly.
Welkum to ther 'Yellow Fever' klub and ther 4um.

Firstly, there is no differential as such in these graders, just a crown wheel and pinion. The drive axle is solid right across to provide constant drive to both sides at all times to maximise traction. Remember, that these machines were built before 'slippery' diffs, torque proportioning and all that fancy stuff got developed to a point where it could stand the punishment that machines like graders commonly get - like everybody wants them to do the work of at least a D7.

Check out the front end, lean wheels, steering joints, axle pivots, etc.. As mentioned in another current thread on this BB (http://www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?13739-Hello-Guys!), the front end can be a bit 'exxy' to repair unless you can do a lot of the work yourself. Check the draught ball and all blade linkages for slack. There are heaps of adjustments for this, also described in the above thread. Check all drive boxes for oil and for the color/appearance of said oil - if any. Leaking drive boxes will need either seal replacement or constant topping up if you want to have a good service life from the machine.

The 212's, like most Cat graders, were pretty solid, reliable machines and could give a fair day's work in skilled hands. Many people say that the grader is the hardest machine of all to learn to operate and I would agree that there is a LOT to the ART of grader operation. How-wevver, if you stand back and look AT and INTO the machine, you may notice that the law of the lever applies VERY much to way these jiggers behave. I'll leave you to ponder that thought for a while and see what you come up with in response - - - if any.

Hope this helps.
Welcome to the CAT Fever...
I've got two 212's that I use for our community ranch road...and neighbor's lanes when they ask...I like the way the little CAT 212 "Knuckle-buster" operates...I also have two 112's...and they are a little too big for what I do...If the 212 starts that easy by pull starting...I'd look into getting that pony motor running...As for the pony motor...Does it run ?...My 212's start up just fine with the pony...Using the pony doesn't require someone else to help you get the machine started...and if you should kill the engine...it's easy to start back up...If the pony doesn't run...check the mag for spark and timing...The pony carb might need a good cleaning...Then there's the pony clutch...If it engages and disengages the pony to the diesel engine...should be no problem...
$1500 is a good price for a running machine...12.00x24 tires are a bit big for a 212, but will work..should be 10.00x24 tires...which are real hard to find nowadays...11.2x24 tires are the replacement size for the 10.00x24's...One final thing... check the cutting edges on the moldboard...Be sure the cutting edges are not ground off to and including the monkey board(the part where the plow bolts bolt on the cutting edges)...The cutting edges are easy to replace...and not that expensive...I get mine from CAT...
Post some photos so we can see your project...Thanks...
Good Luck...and enjoy yourself !
Respy, Carl
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Sun, Sep 25, 2011 9:13 AM
msacat235
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Reply to CarlsCAT:
Welcome to the CAT Fever...
I've got two 212's that I use for our community ranch road...and neighbor's lanes when they ask...I like the way the little CAT 212 "Knuckle-buster" operates...I also have two 112's...and they are a little too big for what I do...If the 212 starts that easy by pull starting...I'd look into getting that pony motor running...As for the pony motor...Does it run ?...My 212's start up just fine with the pony...Using the pony doesn't require someone else to help you get the machine started...and if you should kill the engine...it's easy to start back up...If the pony doesn't run...check the mag for spark and timing...The pony carb might need a good cleaning...Then there's the pony clutch...If it engages and disengages the pony to the diesel engine...should be no problem...
$1500 is a good price for a running machine...12.00x24 tires are a bit big for a 212, but will work..should be 10.00x24 tires...which are real hard to find nowadays...11.2x24 tires are the replacement size for the 10.00x24's...One final thing... check the cutting edges on the moldboard...Be sure the cutting edges are not ground off to and including the monkey board(the part where the plow bolts bolt on the cutting edges)...The cutting edges are easy to replace...and not that expensive...I get mine from CAT...
Post some photos so we can see your project...Thanks...
Good Luck...and enjoy yourself !
Respy, Carl
what year is my 212 1r413cr grader
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Sun, Dec 25, 2016 1:26 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to msacat235:
what year is my 212 1r413cr grader
1R413 is a 1941 model.
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Sun, Dec 25, 2016 6:27 AM
msacat235
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Reply to Old Magnet:
1R413 is a 1941 model.


thanks, is this grader worth restoring ,it also has a scrafier in front of the blade,what does cr mean after the ser#
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Mon, Dec 26, 2016 1:49 AM
Deas Plant.
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Reply to msacat235:


thanks, is this grader worth restoring ,it also has a scrafier in front of the blade,what does cr mean after the ser#
Hi, Msacat235.
That is a HIGHLY individual question and one that only you can decide in the end. Some photos posted on here might give folks a better idea of what you have to enable them to assess what needs doing to restore it, which may or may not help to give you some idea of the costs and the work involved. How-wevver, in the end it is going to have to be you who decides if it is worth the time, effort and money to do it. One thing worth bearing in mind - these projects almost NEVER come in on time and even less on 'budget'.

But they are a good little grader.

Just my 0.02.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Mon, Dec 26, 2016 4:34 AM
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