R2 3400 engine

the clutch (or the engine) should be free to turn before you start adjusting the clutch adjuster up. At that point move the lever to engage the clutch and watch it to see how it all moves. If all is well, begin adjusting and snapping the clutch in each time.

At some point it will start to snap over center, very easy. If you tighten farther, it will get harder and eventually won't be able to snap over center.

If your clutch linkage is too worn, you may not have enough travel to make it snap in before the clutch lever or linkage hits something.

I,m only guessing but maybe it,s too tight to begin with so back it off CCW & then start going clock wise a little at a time & keep trying the lever to see if it snaps in & see what happens. Also CC gave you some good advice so check these things out.Let us know how you make out.

Thanks CC + SJ will try what you sugested. The engine turns over good. Linkeage is in good condition very little loose ness or slop in it. When i back the linkeage off i get some movement from the clutch stick. If it is up near the disk no movement. Totaly lost Don;t want to pull engine back out i work by my self and it ain't easy😊
catrat

Hi catrat,
as SJ suggested and you have described, I too believe your clutch is adjusted too tight. Keep backing it off, if you can ?, until you get the snap as described in the attached D2 3J-5J OMI. I believe the R2 clutch to be the same.
My experience of these type clutches is that the adjustment takes up quickly and very little movement is required (a hole or two either side of the best position) to go from loose to won't snap over, as you are encountering.
Chin up, Cheers,
Eddie B.
PS "man will triumph over metal".

Thanks CC+ SJ+edb i removed the engine again today and found that i had a set of dogs not alined right on the rear clutch plate. When this is in place and clutch is adjusted should i be able to release the clutch. Then re tighted to get it in line for engine instalation. This is a real pain for what looks so simple.

Couple of things:
Would seem like you have some well worn parts....links and pins to get the dogs (cams) out of position.
No problem releasing the clutch for installation but I'd save the tightening and adjustment for when it is installed in tractor.

Thanks CC- SJ- edb- Old magnet. All the parts and linkage is in good condition redriled parts new pins. The biggest problem i think was the 1 year between disassembly and reinstall 😕 {CRS} have it back togather now and appears to work OK😊 Will get the other items on this week and see how it runs and maybe operates. It has been a long battle not used to this outside work space. Just moved [last year] from a 60+60 shop to a 16+20 just enough room to stor e a few tractors and tools.
The main problem was i missed the set ov dogs at the transmission were not lined up. I thik they may drive the pump when clutch is inguaged.
Again thanks to all I knew you would have answers
[😉 If it can't be found here may as well scrap it]
catrat

CC-SJ-edb-Old Magnet have the R2 running now but pooor. The problem i am haveing now is it is back fireing through the carb. I did NOT touch the timeing when this engine was apart. I am thinking that the valve timeing due to valve adjustment may be the problem[right wrong]. The rockers are wore some so i have located an other set appear to be real tight. The back fire it not real bad just enough to here a cough now and then. This engine ran good before it ate that valve head. Real pain to pull the cross over hyd. lines and get the valve cover off. All and any help needed
Thanks
catrat

What have you got the valve adjustment set at?? Don't know what all you replaced, did you redo valve guides, replace springs??. Has all the symptoms of weak valve springs. Jam a big screwdriver between the valve spring coils while it's running. If that's it the back fire/cough will stop on that particular cylinder. Are you getting a nice fat spark from the mag and does the carb respond to adjustments?