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Hex Key for D4 drain plugs

Hex Key for D4 drain plugs

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Cat99
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I need help finding the right hex bit for the drain plugs on a D47U. I have been using a plumbers shower drain socket but they are kind of flimsy. I went to Caterpillar but they list a 15/16" and 1 1/8" hex key for the D4. Does anyone know which is the correct size or are both sizes needed? They don't sell the original tool that came with the tractor anymore.

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Fri, Apr 15, 2011 10:17 AM
KCB
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The drain plugs on the D4 are 1 1/8". You can make a tool from a 3/4" bolt with 1 1/8" hex head. Or buy this CAT tool, 5S9569 - it has both 15/16" and 1 1/8" for use with 1/2" drive.

[attachment=8625]5S9569.jpg[/attachment]
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Fri, Apr 15, 2011 10:56 AM
Steve A
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Reply to KCB:
The drain plugs on the D4 are 1 1/8". You can make a tool from a 3/4" bolt with 1 1/8" hex head. Or buy this CAT tool, 5S9569 - it has both 15/16" and 1 1/8" for use with 1/2" drive.

[attachment=8625]5S9569.jpg[/attachment]
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Kent

I have never seen one of those--thanks for posting👍
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Fri, Apr 15, 2011 11:09 AM
Deas Plant.
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Reply to Steve A:
Kent

I have never seen one of those--thanks for posting👍
Hi, Cat99.
As mentioned above, Cat does/did make a tool for this purpose. In fact, they made at least two versions that I am aware of, the 1/2" square drive version shown above and one that had both hex fittings on one end of a handle about 8" long that was robust enough to take a '2,000# tension wrench' - a 4-foot length of 1" - 2" pipe.

In my own humble estimation, 1/2" square drive equipment can be a bit 'iffy' with some of these plugs as they seem to have a habit of tightening themselves up over time.

You can also make your own, again as mentioned above. When I have made them in the past, I have welded a 2"-long bolt of the appropriate size to a 3/4" round bar handle about 12" long for some applications and simply welded a nut onto a bolt of the appropriate size for other situations where a bit of reach and a socket with extensions might be needed, such as a drain plug up inside a belly pan.

Also as mentioned above:

5/8" bolt usually equals 15/16" head - check it with a 15/16" SAE wrench to make sure that somebody has not landed you with a 'ring-in'.

3/4" bolt usually equals 1 1/8" head - again, check it.

Just one other thing - most of these plugs come complete with a copper washer as a seal. Make sure the copper washer IS there and in good condition before replacing the plug.

Hope this helps.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Fri, Apr 15, 2011 1:23 PM
Cat99
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Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, Cat99.
As mentioned above, Cat does/did make a tool for this purpose. In fact, they made at least two versions that I am aware of, the 1/2" square drive version shown above and one that had both hex fittings on one end of a handle about 8" long that was robust enough to take a '2,000# tension wrench' - a 4-foot length of 1" - 2" pipe.

In my own humble estimation, 1/2" square drive equipment can be a bit 'iffy' with some of these plugs as they seem to have a habit of tightening themselves up over time.

You can also make your own, again as mentioned above. When I have made them in the past, I have welded a 2"-long bolt of the appropriate size to a 3/4" round bar handle about 12" long for some applications and simply welded a nut onto a bolt of the appropriate size for other situations where a bit of reach and a socket with extensions might be needed, such as a drain plug up inside a belly pan.

Also as mentioned above:

5/8" bolt usually equals 15/16" head - check it with a 15/16" SAE wrench to make sure that somebody has not landed you with a 'ring-in'.

3/4" bolt usually equals 1 1/8" head - again, check it.

Just one other thing - most of these plugs come complete with a copper washer as a seal. Make sure the copper washer IS there and in good condition before replacing the plug.

Hope this helps.
Thanks for all of the good information. I will check with CAT and see how much the tool is. The 1/2" inch drive doesn't sound stout enough but should work well with a reducer from a 3/4". If the price is too crazy I will use a bolt until I can find the right tool used somewhere. Thanks again for the help.
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Sat, Apr 16, 2011 12:25 AM
D6c10K
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Reply to Cat99:
Thanks for all of the good information. I will check with CAT and see how much the tool is. The 1/2" inch drive doesn't sound stout enough but should work well with a reducer from a 3/4". If the price is too crazy I will use a bolt until I can find the right tool used somewhere. Thanks again for the help.
Cat shows old p/n 5S9569 changed to 212-8146..... available for $44.08
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Sat, Apr 16, 2011 1:27 AM
edb
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Reply to D6c10K:
Cat shows old p/n 5S9569 changed to 212-8146..... available for $44.08
Hi Team,
for really tight plugs use a 3/4" drive socket and bar on the outer hex of the 1/2" drive type wrench, also for the older handle style wrench as well, for ease of removal. As suggested you will shear of the 1/2" drive on your favourite bar and cause lots of bad language to happen !!!!
At The Dealer I used to give the flange of the plug a couple of moderate of hits with a hammer to ease the grip of the gasket to ease removal, also did this on tapered plugs where fitted on later machines.
Also be aware that if you tighten a cold plug into a hot housing the plug will expand and be almost impossible to remove. I used to install the plug loosely and wait a minute for it to expand and then tighten moderately, this is vital on tapered thread plugs, they could split a housing.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Sat, Apr 16, 2011 8:11 AM
Julian
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Reply to edb:
Hi Team,
for really tight plugs use a 3/4" drive socket and bar on the outer hex of the 1/2" drive type wrench, also for the older handle style wrench as well, for ease of removal. As suggested you will shear of the 1/2" drive on your favourite bar and cause lots of bad language to happen !!!!
At The Dealer I used to give the flange of the plug a couple of moderate of hits with a hammer to ease the grip of the gasket to ease removal, also did this on tapered plugs where fitted on later machines.
Also be aware that if you tighten a cold plug into a hot housing the plug will expand and be almost impossible to remove. I used to install the plug loosely and wait a minute for it to expand and then tighten moderately, this is vital on tapered thread plugs, they could split a housing.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
I just dug out an old imperial nut and bolt from my spares pile and welded the nut to the bolt. I used a big old ring spanner on the thing. (and a length of pipe for more leverage if needed)

Not all nice and shiny like a proper tool but it worked fine and cost about 1/4 of a welding stick!

Julian.
D47J5052
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Sat, Apr 16, 2011 4:11 PM
terrywelch_archive
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Reply to Julian:
I just dug out an old imperial nut and bolt from my spares pile and welded the nut to the bolt. I used a big old ring spanner on the thing. (and a length of pipe for more leverage if needed)

Not all nice and shiny like a proper tool but it worked fine and cost about 1/4 of a welding stick!

Julian.
Kent, where did I see one of these?? Last weekend changing oil on some machines? Bill's homemade wrench worked well also.
Thanks for the help last weekend
Terry
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Sat, Apr 16, 2011 5:52 PM
navistar275gm
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Reply to terrywelch_archive:
Kent, where did I see one of these?? Last weekend changing oil on some machines? Bill's homemade wrench worked well also.
Thanks for the help last weekend
Terry
HERE I THOUGHT I WAS A " ECONOMICALLY EFFICIENT" TITEWAD, FORMALLY KNOWN AS A CHEAP TITEWAD. I DO LIKE THE WAY YA ALL THINK THOUGH. A GRADE 8 3/4 BOLT FROM THE BIN AND SOME HOT ELECTRIC GLUE DOES WONDERS BECAUSE THAT IS EXACTLY HOW I MADE ALL MINE...........😆
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Sat, Apr 16, 2011 7:51 PM
B4D2
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Reply to navistar275gm:
HERE I THOUGHT I WAS A " ECONOMICALLY EFFICIENT" TITEWAD, FORMALLY KNOWN AS A CHEAP TITEWAD. I DO LIKE THE WAY YA ALL THINK THOUGH. A GRADE 8 3/4 BOLT FROM THE BIN AND SOME HOT ELECTRIC GLUE DOES WONDERS BECAUSE THAT IS EXACTLY HOW I MADE ALL MINE...........😆



😆 I like that.... 👍
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Sat, Apr 16, 2011 9:49 PM
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