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adjust speed on D2 diesel

adjust speed on D2 diesel

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Jack
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Well, with a little help from Aborigine, I slammed the throttle open and got my engine to fire right off. Seems that little over-center jigger in there was a little stuck, works OK now. But the adjustment screws seem to do nothing???

Am I correct, the rearward one is the high idle speed and the forward one is the low idle speed adjustment? What do you do with them? Turn clockwise for faster? or slower?

The engine--fresh rebuild carried in one of my old threads and just now started--took off and ran beautiful. It has a half-inch of rubber under the skids and I couldn't even feel any vibration through my shoes, much less any tendency to "walk".

I'm attaching a pic of the generator corner. On left is hot water tank for heating waste veg oil, the primary fuel for the system.

Under the workbench is a tank of diesel for purging the system any time I choose to shut down and let it cool off.

Straight away is the 50 gallon insulated tank for heated WVO, first filter and two water traps, then heated fuel line to the engine.

Then the jewel of the system, fresh D2 5U engine converted to dual fuel system at the filter head. Also has hot water plumbed to the filter housing. Copper pipes up from the engine are coolant to an overhead radiator, steel pipe is exhaust out through the wall.

In back is a sub panel 240V 3 ph/single ph for heater, circulator pump, elec radiator fan and fuel handling pump.

The belt drive is a 4x B section band rated at close to double this load. I left it off until I determined the rotation wiring.

Now, how do I set the idle speed?

Thanks,

Jack
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Fri, Apr 1, 2011 10:06 AM
timbo1946
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Jack,
That is a real professional job. Glad to see that she is up and running. A few years ago we were at the same point in the rebuild on our D2 engines. I'm real satisfied with how mine runs as well, a few things that I want to take care of still, but know that it will never be "done".

I'm glad I pushed hard to get mine done when I did. I gave me a couple of summers with it back together and with my Dad (it was his D2) before he passed. It was worth every $$ and hour spent getting her going to see him run that tractor again.

Tim
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Fri, Apr 1, 2011 5:20 PM
Jack
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Reply to timbo1946:
Jack,
That is a real professional job. Glad to see that she is up and running. A few years ago we were at the same point in the rebuild on our D2 engines. I'm real satisfied with how mine runs as well, a few things that I want to take care of still, but know that it will never be "done".

I'm glad I pushed hard to get mine done when I did. I gave me a couple of summers with it back together and with my Dad (it was his D2) before he passed. It was worth every $$ and hour spent getting her going to see him run that tractor again.

Tim
Hi Timbo1946,

Yes, I remember exchanging experiences on the rebuild of our engines. I had mine finished about the same time that you did, but I had to oil it up and leave it on blocks for a couple years or more. Seems I'd work on this project until I ran out of money, then wait and scrounge parts until I could go again. After the engine work, this has taken me just about one year of spare time to make what you see in the picture.

It cost me close to $6,000 to get the delta closed on the power line out front last year. Then I had to stall the electrician until I could afford to pay him and putter about on the small detail jobs. boy, was there a bunch of small details, what with water heat coils on just about everything. So I'm way behind schedule with it but saved a bunch of money by not farming out anything except the electrical.

Now spring is sprung and sparkie is real busy, so it will be a couple more weeks before we can wrap this thing up and go on the grid. With all the time loss, I've managed to pile up about 1,600 gal of fuel and it keeps coming on a regular basis. We're fueled until some time in 2013!

I'm happy to hear that your project worked out well. My Dad was a gardener. After he blew a couple air cooled engines, I built him a garden tractor around a 4 cylinder Waukesha engine. He treasured that thing until the day he died. It's still here and still running after 41 years of tilling.

Regards,

Jack
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Sat, Apr 2, 2011 11:20 AM
edb
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Reply to Jack:
Hi Timbo1946,

Yes, I remember exchanging experiences on the rebuild of our engines. I had mine finished about the same time that you did, but I had to oil it up and leave it on blocks for a couple years or more. Seems I'd work on this project until I ran out of money, then wait and scrounge parts until I could go again. After the engine work, this has taken me just about one year of spare time to make what you see in the picture.

It cost me close to $6,000 to get the delta closed on the power line out front last year. Then I had to stall the electrician until I could afford to pay him and putter about on the small detail jobs. boy, was there a bunch of small details, what with water heat coils on just about everything. So I'm way behind schedule with it but saved a bunch of money by not farming out anything except the electrical.

Now spring is sprung and sparkie is real busy, so it will be a couple more weeks before we can wrap this thing up and go on the grid. With all the time loss, I've managed to pile up about 1,600 gal of fuel and it keeps coming on a regular basis. We're fueled until some time in 2013!

I'm happy to hear that your project worked out well. My Dad was a gardener. After he blew a couple air cooled engines, I built him a garden tractor around a 4 cylinder Waukesha engine. He treasured that thing until the day he died. It's still here and still running after 41 years of tilling.

Regards,

Jack
Hi Team,
scanned below is the procedure to adjust the High and Low Idle speeds for a tractor.

A "Cat" Gen Set usually has its Low Idle set at about 500 RPM less than High Idle so as to save the regulation system overloading trying to maintain settings with the engine running at less than its rated speed.
A Cat gen set governor is usually set up with 3% droop.
Thus a "Non-Parralled set" with 1800 Full Load rpm has a High Idle of 1827 to 1854 rpm, and a Low Idle of 1300 rpm, = 50.5 hp with fan.
1500 FL has HI 1523-1545, and LI 1100, = 44.5 Wf.
1200 FL has HI 1218-1236, and LI 900, = 36.5 Wf.
1000 FL has HI 1015-1030, and LI 800, = 30.5 Wf.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Sun, Apr 3, 2011 8:31 AM
Jack
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Reply to edb:
Hi Team,
scanned below is the procedure to adjust the High and Low Idle speeds for a tractor.

A "Cat" Gen Set usually has its Low Idle set at about 500 RPM less than High Idle so as to save the regulation system overloading trying to maintain settings with the engine running at less than its rated speed.
A Cat gen set governor is usually set up with 3% droop.
Thus a "Non-Parralled set" with 1800 Full Load rpm has a High Idle of 1827 to 1854 rpm, and a Low Idle of 1300 rpm, = 50.5 hp with fan.
1500 FL has HI 1523-1545, and LI 1100, = 44.5 Wf.
1200 FL has HI 1218-1236, and LI 900, = 36.5 Wf.
1000 FL has HI 1015-1030, and LI 800, = 30.5 Wf.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Thanks, edb. The info I needed is in there, and it's no wonder my engine shuts down instead of idling. I was going the wrong way with the screw.

The idle spec 550 RPM should be about right. The other stuff is not applicable. This is not a D311 gen set. It is an old tractor engine over driving an induction generator, a motor actually, a setup of my own creation. High end will be determined with an electronic tach on the generator, about 1885 RPM which will be produced with a crankshaft speed of about 1400 RPM. The 25 HP motor will produce about 19 kW power at 240 V, 3 phase, 60 cycles working as a generator. Cat spec sheet for the D311 engine says it will do this on about 1.25 gal/hour fuel.

I've had it running; it does indeed work.
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Sun, Apr 3, 2011 11:45 AM
ccjersey
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Your governor should have an easy time with the induction generator.

Should be able to just dial up the high idle speed until you get the amperage output you want as long as it won't overspeed if it trips off line/belts slip etc. That might be the only fly in the ointment using a tractor governor instead of a generator governor.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sun, Apr 3, 2011 8:25 PM
neil
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Reply to ccjersey:
Your governor should have an easy time with the induction generator.

Should be able to just dial up the high idle speed until you get the amperage output you want as long as it won't overspeed if it trips off line/belts slip etc. That might be the only fly in the ointment using a tractor governor instead of a generator governor.
What do folks recommend as a tach to check both a 3J pony and main engine? I want to set mine correctly when I get them going (since the governor has been apart) but I'm not sure what I should use to measure the rpm. I know my father has a revolution counter which I could just time for a minute but that device is 14000 miles away...
Cheers,
Neil.
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Sun, Apr 3, 2011 11:36 PM
ccjersey
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About the cheapest thing that's useful is one of those ebay photo/laser tachometers. I have had 2 now. The first one (~$25) died after several years of riding around on the dashboard of my truck. I got another for about the same money and I'll try to take better care of it. They're easy to use, accurate, safe and cheap if you can find one of the same ones I have (shipped direct from Tiawan I think)

The contact type can be used for a lot of things, but it can be a challenge to safely stick it on the end of a shaft in a lot of situations. They generally are more expensive than the cheap photo tachs unless you pick up a really good deal on one.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, Apr 4, 2011 6:00 AM
Jack
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Reply to ccjersey:
About the cheapest thing that's useful is one of those ebay photo/laser tachometers. I have had 2 now. The first one (~$25) died after several years of riding around on the dashboard of my truck. I got another for about the same money and I'll try to take better care of it. They're easy to use, accurate, safe and cheap if you can find one of the same ones I have (shipped direct from Tiawan I think)

The contact type can be used for a lot of things, but it can be a challenge to safely stick it on the end of a shaft in a lot of situations. They generally are more expensive than the cheap photo tachs unless you pick up a really good deal on one.
That was a typo that I didn't catch on the generator speed. It's actually around 1785 RPM, but you get the drift. The diesel won't be running near that fast. If the motor should lose connection, it would overspeed immediately. I'll have the control system set up to leave the switch off until the fault is corrected. Then the gen can be switched back on manually. For this reason, I have to set the high idle at an acceptable limit no-load high idle speed.
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Mon, Apr 4, 2011 10:40 AM
timbo1946
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Reply to Jack:
That was a typo that I didn't catch on the generator speed. It's actually around 1785 RPM, but you get the drift. The diesel won't be running near that fast. If the motor should lose connection, it would overspeed immediately. I'll have the control system set up to leave the switch off until the fault is corrected. Then the gen can be switched back on manually. For this reason, I have to set the high idle at an acceptable limit no-load high idle speed.
Neil,

I have a couple of tach you could use. Both are contact type, so you have to be able to get to a rotating shaft. I have used the PTO on my other tractors to measure and ajust, just have to know what speed the PTO is set up for. You are more than welcome to use. Just let me know. I'm in Williamson NY, not to far from you.
Tim
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Mon, Apr 4, 2011 5:46 PM
drujinin
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Reply to timbo1946:
Neil,

I have a couple of tach you could use. Both are contact type, so you have to be able to get to a rotating shaft. I have used the PTO on my other tractors to measure and ajust, just have to know what speed the PTO is set up for. You are more than welcome to use. Just let me know. I'm in Williamson NY, not to far from you.
Tim
Tell us more about the control system as this is interesting! Is that Niagara Mohawk utility you are feeding? Their power has always been high priced. What are you using for Synchronization, Reverse Power, Undervoltage/Overcurrent relays? I priced that stuff years ago and thought is kind of high priced. What do you have for a Utility disconnect when they are working on power lines in your area?
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Mon, Apr 4, 2011 6:02 PM
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