Needed part # for water pump seal

Is there a part # for just the ceramic washer on the impeller on the D25U? It does not come with the seal assem. of corse you have to buy the pricey impeller from Cat instead.

Between the bellows assembly, 5F9141 and the impeller 4F4770 is a washer 5F9140.

Josh,

That washer may be the carbon washer that rides on the ceramic???

Rome/KG

The ceramic is cemented to the impeller. Mine on my D6 9U came off when I disassembled the pump. I was to the local CAT dealer and he said that I would have to get the impeller and it would come with the ceramic washer already affixed. I showed him my good impeller and my good ceramic washer. He just shook his head and said to buy the new impeller and be done with it. I brought it home and machined the surface of the impeller perpendicular with the shaft and cemented the ceramic washer on the impeller with JB Weld. That was a year ago. So far so good.

Your mileage may vary. 😖mile:

John

Yea John, thats what I was told too. Im checking with a company that handle those kind of ceramic washers.

Forgot to mention the washer was cracked in five places on the impeller. I was told on the D333's there was a torque setting for the impeller nut.

Here's a link you might want to check out for those oddball ceramic type seals http://www.ussealmfg.com/

I had Regal check and look at the 5f9140 washer as it showed they had them in stock, it sounds like it is actually the seal assembly, did some more checking on the D2 impeller and others and you are correct there is no part number for for the ceramic washer on the impeller, even on ones that are shown as an assembly there is no part number in the NPR for the ceramic washer. Let us know if you find a source.

Two things to try. One, go to a rebuilder that rebuilds water pumps. Find the oldest guy there and hold out you hand with the broken seal in it. He will then ask you how many you want and go back to the dusty shelves and get you some.

Second, go to a place that sells water pumps and seals. The type of pumps used to pump water out of ponds, etc. Not automotive stuff. They will have seal cartridges. Maybe you can find one of those and rip out the ceramic disk.

The whole purpose of the ceramic disc is to provide a better wear surface than the cast iron on the impeller. My parts book didn't even show the impeller that had the ceramic disc. You could build up the impeller to the thickness of the disc.

I think there is a shoulder on the shaft that stops the impeller and the nut tightens the impeller to the shoulder. You can't tighten the nut too tight and crack the ceramic disk. You might have beaten on the shaft during disassembly and caused the disc to shatter. You would have to look at the cracks and tell if they are fresh. The seal assembly has a spring that keeps tension of the seal to toward the impeller. It has to have some movement.

Hope this helps,

John

Seems like the one I put in our D69U a long time ago included a silicon carbide seat that went against the impeller? Been a long time, but I remember the almost mirror finish on the seat. Some of the later engines simply run the carbon seal against the back of a cast iron impeller. Not the longest lasting design or maybe someone just left off the seat washer on the ones I have been into!

I don't have a D311 pump to measure and get specifics, but here is how I have done this on other water pumps........
Before disassembly, measure the distance the impeller is from the housing if still possible because or wear. that way you can get a close measurement on the working height of the seal between the impeller and the housing. The working height is the one dimension with a fairly wide tolerance, so don't sweat the fine details taking that measurement.

Then carefully disassemble and clean. It can be hard to pull the later impellers from the D320/D330/D333 etc since they seem to be made from a very inferior cast iron vs the bronze castings on the older D311/D315/D318. If you break it, you need a new one anyway, so I have been pressing the whole thing apart in a shop press to avoid putting a jaw puller on the cast iron impellers. You can also use heat on the impeller once you get it properly supported in the press. Once you get the impeller off, you can measure the depth of the pocket where the seal must work. Then with the diameter of the shaft and the diameter of the housing, you look them up in a catalog.


http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/viewCatalogPDF.shtml?browserCompatable=true&adobeCompatable=true&toolbar=true&CatPage=3855&Catalog=main

The seals that will likely do the job are type 68 at the bottom with the shaft mounted seats. Not a lot of options on the seal cup size. I think they are all 1.437" and all the shaft sizes are 5/8".

There used to be other sizes available, and probably are in other catalogs.

D333 impeller retaining nut torque is 30 foot pounds.