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941B questions

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Richard~J~W
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Right, I've had time to get the loader in to the workshop and go through it, looking good so far, no nightmares hiding under the covers.

Anyway I got some questions which I'm hoping you can help me out with

1) What is under these two cover under the seat?


[img]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1/RichardJayW1/covers.jpg[/img]


2) Is this tap some kind of bleed screw?


[img]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1/RichardJayW1/pumptap.jpg[/img]


3) Anyone know where I can find these lights or ones that will look close to the genuine articles.......they actually look smaller than those on the D4


[img]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1/RichardJayW1/Light1.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1/RichardJayW1/light2.jpg[/img]


4) What is the easiest way of getting the lift rod back in to the cylinder?
It's leaking and removing to reseal shouldn't be a prob but with the weight of it all putting it back could be a problem
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Thu, Jan 27, 2011 2:31 AM
dpendzic
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1---filters for the steering clutches
2-bleeder valve for the fuel system--you should have a bleeder pump plunger to the left a ways and this will let the air out of the system
3 don't know---:noidea:
4 takes 1 1/2 men to lift and place back into cyl. my grandson--age 13--and i placed mine back into the cyl.👍
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Thu, Jan 27, 2011 5:17 AM
catsilver
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Reply to dpendzic:
1---filters for the steering clutches
2-bleeder valve for the fuel system--you should have a bleeder pump plunger to the left a ways and this will let the air out of the system
3 don't know---:noidea:
4 takes 1 1/2 men to lift and place back into cyl. my grandson--age 13--and i placed mine back into the cyl.👍
Those lights are not original Cat so I have no idea where they have come from.
The best way to work on the lift rams is to have the arms up in the air with a safety stay on the opposite ram and do one at a time, hence the need for a good strong safety stay as discussed before.
If I remember right, hose two housings under the seat are a suction screen and filter, you will find out when you get in there,
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Thu, Jan 27, 2011 8:03 PM
ol Grump
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Reply to catsilver:
Those lights are not original Cat so I have no idea where they have come from.
The best way to work on the lift rams is to have the arms up in the air with a safety stay on the opposite ram and do one at a time, hence the need for a good strong safety stay as discussed before.
If I remember right, hose two housings under the seat are a suction screen and filter, you will find out when you get in there,
Those lights are pretty similar to ones you'd find at an automotive store. .
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Thu, Jan 27, 2011 9:37 PM
Richard~J~W
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Reply to ol Grump:
Those lights are pretty similar to ones you'd find at an automotive store. .
Thanks for the replies, fellas.

I made a sturdy ram support out of piece 3x1.5 channel for keeping the arms up, although I thought it would have had one actually fitted in to the machine.

Out of interest where does the oil supply for the steering come from?

I pulled up the floor plates, found 2 dipsticks, one I guess is the powershift transmission, the second (under the seat) for the diff.

Is there a torque-converter oil reservoir on the back of the flywheel?
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Fri, Jan 28, 2011 5:12 AM
catsilver
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Reply to Richard~J~W:
Thanks for the replies, fellas.

I made a sturdy ram support out of piece 3x1.5 channel for keeping the arms up, although I thought it would have had one actually fitted in to the machine.

Out of interest where does the oil supply for the steering come from?

I pulled up the floor plates, found 2 dipsticks, one I guess is the powershift transmission, the second (under the seat) for the diff.

Is there a torque-converter oil reservoir on the back of the flywheel?
Steering hyd oil comes from the bevel gera compartment, the flywhel housing is dry, the T/C is in the front of the transmission.
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Fri, Jan 28, 2011 3:41 PM
Deas Plant.
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Reply to catsilver:
Steering hyd oil comes from the bevel gera compartment, the flywhel housing is dry, the T/C is in the front of the transmission.
Hi, Richard~J~W.
If my memory serves me rightly, there is ackshully only a filter under wunna those covers. The other has a washable magnetic screen under it.

Summa those jiggers. mainly the early ones I think, hadda washable primary fuel screen down under the injector pump. It looked like wunna the old glass sight bowls but a little smaller and made out of steel. Inside the bowl there was a small bolt that screwed into the housing that the bowl clamps to. On this small bolt, there were dozens of circular, perforated brass segments through which the fuel was screened. It also acted as a water trap. It can be an 'absorbing' 1/2-hour's work washing all those little segments and putting them back on the bolt if you happen to drop them off the bolt while washing them. I have known this screen to become so blocked that it stopped the engine.

It DOES pay to occasionally check that the hand priming pump for bleeding the fuel system is working by giving it a few pumps to see if it builds up pressure and gets hard to pump. It also pays to have the fuel tank FULL if you ever do have to bleed the system. If the priming pump works, they are fairly easy to bleed. If it ain't working - - - - - - - - . Aother approach in the event that the priming pump isn't working is to LIGHTLY pressurise the FUEL tank with all bleed screws open. About 5-7 psi usually does the trick.

From the factory, there was usually a loader arm support brace which was stored with clamp bolts at the reat of the machine. It was a U-shaped, fabricated channel made from about 1/4" plate rolled into the shape and reinforced at both ends with U-shaped plates welded to it. With a little luck, somebody here may be able to come with the parts book page for that item to give you a clue about how it looked.

Hope this helps.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Sat, Jan 29, 2011 6:04 PM
Richard~J~W
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Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, Richard~J~W.
If my memory serves me rightly, there is ackshully only a filter under wunna those covers. The other has a washable magnetic screen under it.

Summa those jiggers. mainly the early ones I think, hadda washable primary fuel screen down under the injector pump. It looked like wunna the old glass sight bowls but a little smaller and made out of steel. Inside the bowl there was a small bolt that screwed into the housing that the bowl clamps to. On this small bolt, there were dozens of circular, perforated brass segments through which the fuel was screened. It also acted as a water trap. It can be an 'absorbing' 1/2-hour's work washing all those little segments and putting them back on the bolt if you happen to drop them off the bolt while washing them. I have known this screen to become so blocked that it stopped the engine.

It DOES pay to occasionally check that the hand priming pump for bleeding the fuel system is working by giving it a few pumps to see if it builds up pressure and gets hard to pump. It also pays to have the fuel tank FULL if you ever do have to bleed the system. If the priming pump works, they are fairly easy to bleed. If it ain't working - - - - - - - - . Aother approach in the event that the priming pump isn't working is to LIGHTLY pressurise the FUEL tank with all bleed screws open. About 5-7 psi usually does the trick.

From the factory, there was usually a loader arm support brace which was stored with clamp bolts at the reat of the machine. It was a U-shaped, fabricated channel made from about 1/4" plate rolled into the shape and reinforced at both ends with U-shaped plates welded to it. With a little luck, somebody here may be able to come with the parts book page for that item to give you a clue about how it looked.

Hope this helps.
Many thanks for the feedback Deas & Catsilver, really appreciated!

I could imagine that anything that causes the machine to stop with the loader frame down AND the side covers on represents a severe p.i.a. to start with, from what I can see those engine covers won't come off unless the boom is up in the air.

Now the next thing, I noticed that there's a couple of cracks in the sprockets....as per the pic, I guess the main things are the cause and the corrective action, can I just vee them out and fill with some low-hydrogen or 6868 rods (it really looks like someone has had a go there before).......I honestly didn't want to have to take the track frames off for this job........thinking about it, correct me if I'm wrong, really it shouldn't hurt too much, after all it is "similar" to having segmented sprockets......or does the integrity rely on being circular for load-bearing properties?


[img]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1/RichardJayW1/crackedsprocket.jpg[/img]
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Sat, Jan 29, 2011 8:27 PM
Richard~J~W
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Reply to Richard~J~W:
Many thanks for the feedback Deas & Catsilver, really appreciated!

I could imagine that anything that causes the machine to stop with the loader frame down AND the side covers on represents a severe p.i.a. to start with, from what I can see those engine covers won't come off unless the boom is up in the air.

Now the next thing, I noticed that there's a couple of cracks in the sprockets....as per the pic, I guess the main things are the cause and the corrective action, can I just vee them out and fill with some low-hydrogen or 6868 rods (it really looks like someone has had a go there before).......I honestly didn't want to have to take the track frames off for this job........thinking about it, correct me if I'm wrong, really it shouldn't hurt too much, after all it is "similar" to having segmented sprockets......or does the integrity rely on being circular for load-bearing properties?


[img]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1/RichardJayW1/crackedsprocket.jpg[/img]
.....and one other thing I noticed, the L.H. track adjuster doesn't release any grease/tension. I wound it out (very gingerly) the grease fitting a fair old way and still it hasn't dropped the pressure.....any clues as to why this is?

[img]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1/RichardJayW1/lhadjuster1-1.jpg[/img]
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Sat, Jan 29, 2011 10:30 PM
dpendzic
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Reply to Richard~J~W:
.....and one other thing I noticed, the L.H. track adjuster doesn't release any grease/tension. I wound it out (very gingerly) the grease fitting a fair old way and still it hasn't dropped the pressure.....any clues as to why this is?

[img]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1/RichardJayW1/lhadjuster1-1.jpg[/img]
Richard--j--w---i have gotten the side cover off with the loader frame down---just a real p i a to do, but had to bleed the fuel system.

If the track adjuster doesn't release grease /tension, the adjuster is usually stuck or froze--either help pull the idler back with a come along or put a bar between the track and upper sprocket tooth and back up---i compressed my recoil spring that way.

Deas is right in that there is only one steering clutch filter--i think its under the hex shape cover.

Transmission filter is in the upper right front of the trany---horizontal
use TO4 hdraulic oil for the tranny and steering clutches

I supported my bucket and loader frame 2 different times. once with 2 --6" diameter posts and the second time i hung it from a tree branch crotch with a 5400 lb chain---with the bucket resting also against the trunk of the tree---felt much more secure with that setup.

Dan P
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Sun, Jan 30, 2011 1:39 AM
tctractors
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Reply to Richard~J~W:
.....and one other thing I noticed, the L.H. track adjuster doesn't release any grease/tension. I wound it out (very gingerly) the grease fitting a fair old way and still it hasn't dropped the pressure.....any clues as to why this is?

[img]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1/RichardJayW1/lhadjuster1-1.jpg[/img]
Richard, as already said the filters under the seat are steering items, the 1 with 4 bolts is a screen(suction), the 6 bolt lid hides a repacable filter (under Pressure),keep the O rings sealing the lids in good nick, the transmission has a screen low down facing the fly-wheel and a filter forward of the R/H steer pedal (bit of a pig to do) check the breathers plastic or steel on both compartments, also the rubber drive couplings from the fly-wheel to trans, the brake adjustment is found through 4 bolt fixed plates on the rear below the fuel tank, also its worth crawling underneath and counting the amount of bolts in both track frames to hard bar location, your rim looks like been chopped to weld on without removing the track frame, just grind out and re-weld with L/H rod making sure you fix the earth clamp to the spocket you are welding???, the grease valve issue might just need removing and a bit of driving back and forwards to sort, the lights are cheap things stuck on, the real lights are sealed beam units in tin housings.

tctractors
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Sun, Jan 30, 2011 1:42 AM
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