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Direct drive main clutch question...

Direct drive main clutch question...

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D6c10K
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Posted by ccjersey in another therad:
" I would not leave the seat of your tractor while the engine is running without putting the transmission in neutral and reengaging the clutch"

Until this summer I'd never run a direct drive tractor (D4c) but after while it occured to me that I might be doing something wrong.... Should you always reengage the main clutch, with trans in neutral, if you're going to let the machine idle for a bit to prevent damage to clutch pilot and throwout bearing? Not real familiar with how it's built so I wasn't sure if it could be a problem.
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Sat, Jan 1, 2011 5:42 AM
edb
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Hi D6c10K,
Oz Dozer posted this on one of the BB's recently.
It answers your question for all of the machines mentioned in the article.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Sat, Jan 1, 2011 6:53 AM
d4c24a
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Reply to edb:
Hi D6c10K,
Oz Dozer posted this on one of the BB's recently.
It answers your question for all of the machines mentioned in the article.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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hi D6c10k
on the D4c the gear lever should be in neutral the Johnson bar in either forwards or reverse ,and the clutch engaged ,you will notice that if the clutch is not engaged the lever is in the way for you to exit the machine
cheers graham

happy new year to you all 👍
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Sat, Jan 1, 2011 3:33 PM
the Farmer3
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Reply to d4c24a:
hi D6c10k
on the D4c the gear lever should be in neutral the Johnson bar in either forwards or reverse ,and the clutch engaged ,you will notice that if the clutch is not engaged the lever is in the way for you to exit the machine
cheers graham

happy new year to you all 👍
If you think about the trucks and tractors with a foot clutch pedal...you have to let the clutch pedal up to get off the machine,engaging the clutch.
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Sat, Jan 1, 2011 6:45 PM
ol Grump
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Reply to the Farmer3:
If you think about the trucks and tractors with a foot clutch pedal...you have to let the clutch pedal up to get off the machine,engaging the clutch.
With anything I run, when I get off (or out of) I make sure it's in neutral with the parking brake engaged. On the old Cats, it's neutral, clutch engaged and parking brake engaged and blade down unless I leave it up to change the angle. And I NEVER get me feet or anything else under the blade while it's up!!!
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Sat, Jan 1, 2011 10:09 PM
Cysco
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Reply to ol Grump:
With anything I run, when I get off (or out of) I make sure it's in neutral with the parking brake engaged. On the old Cats, it's neutral, clutch engaged and parking brake engaged and blade down unless I leave it up to change the angle. And I NEVER get me feet or anything else under the blade while it's up!!!
So if I am reading everything right when I have my D2 idling for any length of time the transmission is in neutral ( of course) and I should pull back/engage the main clutch lever . This insures the transmission is constantly sprayed with oil....thus no burned bearings and such. This applies to the oil clutch version which I have as well.
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Sun, Jan 2, 2011 8:08 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Cysco:
So if I am reading everything right when I have my D2 idling for any length of time the transmission is in neutral ( of course) and I should pull back/engage the main clutch lever . This insures the transmission is constantly sprayed with oil....thus no burned bearings and such. This applies to the oil clutch version which I have as well.
What hasn't been emphasized enough is that you don't want to be overworking the pilot bearing with the clutch disengaged in neutral, Not as severe with the oil clutch which has plenty of lube but the dry clutch has to live on what occassional lube it gets......doesn't mean you want to overlube the pilot bearing either or you'll wind up with grease in the clutch.

Down side is, spinning the gear train in neutral with no load tends to rattle like hell from the backlash.....at least thats what I've found.
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Sun, Jan 2, 2011 8:37 AM
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