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Question on pv 15 ensign carberutor rebuild

Question on pv 15 ensign carberutor rebuild

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gary ca
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Merry Christmas. I just put a kit in my PV15 carb and it was obvious that the float needle valve was not seating. I bent the float arm and stoppped the flood to a drip about every two seconds. It is coming from the passageway from the pedistal to the main throat of the carb. Is my needle/seat still leaking? Is the float level too high? The new needle and seat are different from the one I took out. New is rubber tip to a brass seat and the old was steel tip to a brass seat. I only have about 1/4 inch of float movement. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
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Sat, Dec 25, 2010 8:08 AM
B4D2
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Is this rebuild kit from Bill Campbell? When I spoke with him, he detailed the fact that the new needle needs to be seated with a hammer tap. Good luck.
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Sat, Dec 25, 2010 1:28 PM
hicrop10
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Reply to B4D2:
Is this rebuild kit from Bill Campbell? When I spoke with him, he detailed the fact that the new needle needs to be seated with a hammer tap. Good luck.
I think your rebuild kit is not the one that Bill Campbell has.Bill's kit are the steel tip not the rubber tip.I have had problems with the rubber tipones,so I only use the rebuild kits from Bill.You can find his contact info in the magazine.Good Luck.Mike Durkin
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Sat, Dec 25, 2010 7:53 PM
gary ca
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Reply to hicrop10:
I think your rebuild kit is not the one that Bill Campbell has.Bill's kit are the steel tip not the rubber tip.I have had problems with the rubber tipones,so I only use the rebuild kits from Bill.You can find his contact info in the magazine.Good Luck.Mike Durkin
My kit is from the Carberutor Shop. I tried to contact Bill Cambell but he did not return my phone calls. I have read through the threads on this rebuild and the most critical step seems to be getting the correct thickness of gaskets on both ends of the pedistal. This carb was off a running engine when it was parked 20 years ago and there was no gasket on the top of the pedistal. The kit gaskets seem to fit ok with the exception of the gasket on top of the strainer that seemed to be too big. Thanks for your comments, I will keep playing with it.
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Sat, Dec 25, 2010 8:54 PM
Steve A
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Reply to gary ca:
My kit is from the Carberutor Shop. I tried to contact Bill Cambell but he did not return my phone calls. I have read through the threads on this rebuild and the most critical step seems to be getting the correct thickness of gaskets on both ends of the pedistal. This carb was off a running engine when it was parked 20 years ago and there was no gasket on the top of the pedistal. The kit gaskets seem to fit ok with the exception of the gasket on top of the strainer that seemed to be too big. Thanks for your comments, I will keep playing with it.
My kit came from the carb shop, I have no issues with the float but I did have to make a thicker gasket for the top of the pedistal, I ran the tractor for the first time last weekend and noted the adjustment needles make little difference and it is runing rich, allthough it did start and idle well. I am looking forward to more input to this thread.
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Sat, Dec 25, 2010 9:01 PM
gary ca
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Reply to Steve A:
My kit came from the carb shop, I have no issues with the float but I did have to make a thicker gasket for the top of the pedistal, I ran the tractor for the first time last weekend and noted the adjustment needles make little difference and it is runing rich, allthough it did start and idle well. I am looking forward to more input to this thread.
To Steve A, Was your needle rubber tipped? I had the air cleaner off and watched the drips coming from that central passageway. I did not try and start and am wondering if it would run with the internal drip?
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Sat, Dec 25, 2010 9:17 PM
hiwide15
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Reply to gary ca:
To Steve A, Was your needle rubber tipped? I had the air cleaner off and watched the drips coming from that central passageway. I did not try and start and am wondering if it would run with the internal drip?
The gaskets on top and bottom of pedestal are most important , if too thick you will damage the cover, and if too thin it will leak at the bottom and allow fuel to drain as you have. If the needle is leaking and it is rubber tipped a tap will not fix it. I use the ones from bill and have had very good luck with them. These carbs are a mess to get perfect and clean, ALL passages must be clean to work good. including taking the plug out in idle passage that is under the fixed jet, most people miss this and get a half job, the next thing is that most of the intake manifolds out there have internal rust and cracks that leak and cause the engine to idle rough at best, These engines will idle slow enough to allow the mag impulse to kick in if everything is good, I have several that will doit even when cold. Good luck and if you have questions I will try to help out here. Ron
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Sun, Dec 26, 2010 9:19 AM
gary ca
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Reply to hiwide15:
The gaskets on top and bottom of pedestal are most important , if too thick you will damage the cover, and if too thin it will leak at the bottom and allow fuel to drain as you have. If the needle is leaking and it is rubber tipped a tap will not fix it. I use the ones from bill and have had very good luck with them. These carbs are a mess to get perfect and clean, ALL passages must be clean to work good. including taking the plug out in idle passage that is under the fixed jet, most people miss this and get a half job, the next thing is that most of the intake manifolds out there have internal rust and cracks that leak and cause the engine to idle rough at best, These engines will idle slow enough to allow the mag impulse to kick in if everything is good, I have several that will doit even when cold. Good luck and if you have questions I will try to help out here. Ron
Thanks Ron, I am suspicious of the bottom gasket of the pedistal. It was thin and somewhat hard.I might try and put some modeling clay in the position of the bottom gasket to see how thick it needs to be. I did find the plug below the jet and removed before soaking in carb cleaner. I will keep tinkering- thanks for the help.
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Sun, Dec 26, 2010 11:03 AM
gary ca
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Thanks Ron, I am suspicious of the bottom gasket of the pedistal. It was thin and somewhat hard.I might try and put some modeling clay in the position of the bottom gasket to see how thick it needs to be. I did find the plug below the jet and removed before soaking in carb cleaner. I will keep tinkering- thanks for the help.
Update on my carb rebuild. I did change the bottom gasket of the pedistal from the carb shop kit 1289. It was .030 " thick and a relatively hard material. I replaced it with a cork-rubber material from Fel Pro (part # 301😎 that was stated to be 1/16 " thick. I measured it at .050" with a little squeeze from my calipers. This material was softer and I am sure it compressed even more once I put the lid on. The fit of the lid and bowl was about the same as the first gasket. It was successful in stopping the drip from the pedistal. However, the engine would fire but not start. The plugs were wet and I may have overchoked it. Will try again.
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Wed, Dec 29, 2010 8:31 AM
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