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tilt cylinder rebuild

tilt cylinder rebuild

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rditz
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I have a 955-12A and am experiencing what I would describe as a bleeding of pressure from one side of the tilt cylinder to the other.. If i raise the bucket and tilt it to the level position, it will creep to the down tilt position. If i try to grade with it in a dragging motion, it tilts forward loosing my down preseeure and effective scaping ability.

I am looking for opinions as to whether this is a "do-it-yourself" type of job or not. (keep in mind, I have just successfully rebuilt the wet clutch in this machine, which is working excellent.)

to rebuild both cylinders, I have identified that I would need the following:

(2) Packing Set 2K50
(2) Seal SF3144
(2) Packing Set 1K7112
(2) Seal 1K6981


thanks

rod
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Mon, Aug 23, 2010 10:45 PM
Old Magnet
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Those are the correct parts but there is also a 4F7952 ring in each. I believe that's an O ring.

Toughest part is dealing with the rod nut. I usually clamp the rod eye in a press to hold while turning the nut.
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Mon, Aug 23, 2010 11:06 PM
rditz
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Those are the correct parts but there is also a 4F7952 ring in each. I believe that's an O ring.

Toughest part is dealing with the rod nut. I usually clamp the rod eye in a press to hold while turning the nut.
thanks Old Magnet.. so quite doable.. how long can I expect to be at each cylinder?? is this a weekend job, if I am taking my time??

rod
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Mon, Aug 23, 2010 11:08 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to rditz:
thanks Old Magnet.. so quite doable.. how long can I expect to be at each cylinder?? is this a weekend job, if I am taking my time??

rod
I don't see any reason you couldn't knock it out in a week end at your leisure.(famous last words)
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Tue, Aug 24, 2010 12:33 AM
rditz
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Reply to Old Magnet:
I don't see any reason you couldn't knock it out in a week end at your leisure.(famous last words)
thanks... once i have sourced the seals and packing, I will schedule the rebuild...

rod
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Tue, Aug 24, 2010 1:01 AM
dpendzic
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Reply to rditz:
thanks... once i have sourced the seals and packing, I will schedule the rebuild...

rod
I resealed all the cylinders on my 941B---that rod nut was a job to get loose!--service manual said 640 ft lbs but i think they were much tighter.
I locked the eye in the track frame and then a 1 inch drive socket, breaker bar and 10 ft pipe.
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Tue, Aug 24, 2010 4:36 AM
rditz
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Reply to dpendzic:
I resealed all the cylinders on my 941B---that rod nut was a job to get loose!--service manual said 640 ft lbs but i think they were much tighter.
I locked the eye in the track frame and then a 1 inch drive socket, breaker bar and 10 ft pipe.
Can anyone recommend an aftermarket place for the seals and ppacking?

Cat is a bit dear and would like to see if I can do the job for a little less cost.

thanks

rod
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Wed, Sep 1, 2010 12:40 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to rditz:
Can anyone recommend an aftermarket place for the seals and ppacking?

Cat is a bit dear and would like to see if I can do the job for a little less cost.

thanks

rod
Try this source:
http://www.bulldogkits.com/html/AboutUs.html
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Wed, Sep 1, 2010 2:37 AM
rditz
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Try this source:
http://www.bulldogkits.com/html/AboutUs.html
Thanks OM...

that site wasn't very helpful, but I found the following site that had kits for many models of Cat.

http://www.maxxhyd.com/index.html

I have asked for a quote and will see how competitive they are to Cat genuine parts.

rod
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Wed, Sep 1, 2010 10:14 PM
AJ.
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Reply to rditz:
Thanks OM...

that site wasn't very helpful, but I found the following site that had kits for many models of Cat.

http://www.maxxhyd.com/index.html

I have asked for a quote and will see how competitive they are to Cat genuine parts.

rod
I have resealed lots of those cylinders been around when the track loaders were popular,the way we used to do it on site was remove the rod from the cylinder,leaving the barrel in situ,put the rod eye in the drawbar and put the pin in,support the rod just behind the piston on some wood so its level,with the rod anchored down low you have more power,stand so you are pressing down when loosening and tightening the nut,mark the nut in relation to the rod unless you got a torque multiplier and wrench,undo the nut,reseal the rod and tighten the nut to the torque if you got the wrench or if not tighten it up to the match marks,making sure it's tight,keep everything clean including your hands and tools,slacken the bottom line on the barrel to let the air in and out while removing/fitting the rod,the old rod gland seals had to be shimmed,usually the shims were removed to put more pinch on the cheveron packing as it got worn,I forgot how many were in each,look in the parts book,none may have been removed.
AJ
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Thu, Sep 2, 2010 3:11 PM
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