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Starting Pinion Lever D2

Starting Pinion Lever D2

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Terence McK
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I need some information and help with this problem.
When I engage the starting clutch control the pinion lever will not stay engaged I have to hold it in with my hand. I can feel the pinion and the gear ring grinding . Is there adjustment in this setup or a lack of lubrication somewhere along the line. Any comments would be appreciated.
ps What oil do you reccommend for the diesel engine.
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Mon, Aug 9, 2010 1:19 AM
zootownjeepguy
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From my experience with D2 starting, and this was with the 3J I had years ago (not the 5U that is giving me headaches at the moment), the pinion clutch lever should "snap" over center and stay engaged like the main clutch. There is an adjustment for the pinion clutch, sounds like you just have to tighten it up a notch.

P.S. Shell Rotella 15W 40 is what I use for all of my Diesels around here.

Rich.
Rich Salvaggio
D2 5U9917
'46 Willys CJ2A Farm Jeep, '39 Buick sedan, '49 International KB-7, '37 Allis Chalmers WC, Cushman Scooter(s)
Antique garden tractors & outboard motors
Other rusty old junk comes & goes without warning.

The 2 most useful tools to have in your shop are a Crystal Ball and a Magic Wand
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Mon, Aug 9, 2010 1:26 AM
ccjersey
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Unless you have an oil clutch equipped D2 (pretty rare), the pinion gear itself is not lubricated. There is a oil resevoir in the pinion clutch housing that must be kept properly filled with motor oil or ATF to lubricate the oil type pinion clutch as well as the drive gear down from the pony motor as well as it's CAMSHAFT GEARS! So that one is pretty important even though it sometimes gets forgotten. Not likely that lack of lubrication is causing the grinding problem unless the bearings in the pinion are gone or the pinion clutch is just gummed up so it won't allow the pinion to be braked before it is engaged into the flywheel gear.

It sounds as if you aren't able to engage the pinion gear into the flywheel at all. You could try to do this with the pony stopped and see if it's possible then, but you may have to release it to get the pony motor started again after that. If you are unable to engage the pinion at all, you should brake the pinion gear by pushing the pinion clutch lever hard forward before shifting the pinion into the flywheel gear with the other lever. Sometimes a pinion clutch adjustment in necessary (clutch is too tight for pinion to stop turning) or using a lighter oil like ATF can help. Also helps to idle the pony motor down before engaging the pinion.

If you are getting the pinion engaged, but it won't stay, then the latching mechanism has most likely come loose or needs adjusting. You can get a look at the pinion and it's latching mechanism through the main clutch inspection cover and the small cover over the pinion which is near the left brake pedal on the flywheel housing.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, Aug 9, 2010 1:48 AM
Rd6 plower
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Reply to zootownjeepguy:
From my experience with D2 starting, and this was with the 3J I had years ago (not the 5U that is giving me headaches at the moment), the pinion clutch lever should "snap" over center and stay engaged like the main clutch. There is an adjustment for the pinion clutch, sounds like you just have to tighten it up a notch.

P.S. Shell Rotella 15W 40 is what I use for all of my Diesels around here.

Rich.
How it works is there are dogs on the pinion it's self and when you pull the pinion lever you are engaging those dogs and the pinion into the ring gear at same time so when the diesel fires up the cyntrifigal force throws the dogs out causing it to disengage and the adjustment for your problem is on the pinion they are two screws with Carter pins and you access it on D2's under the left floor plate and there is about a 2 1/2" circle plate you have to do it from it's a pain but it's either that or pull the pony motor and injector pump and pull the whole pony clutch assembly out well you just tighten the two screws up and install new carter pins. The pony cutch assembly is exactly the same except the lever is D2-j-u D4-g-j-t-u D6-r-u.

Hopefully Somone can post some pics of what I'm talking about.

Good Luck!!!-JR
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Mon, Aug 9, 2010 1:59 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Rd6 plower:
How it works is there are dogs on the pinion it's self and when you pull the pinion lever you are engaging those dogs and the pinion into the ring gear at same time so when the diesel fires up the cyntrifigal force throws the dogs out causing it to disengage and the adjustment for your problem is on the pinion they are two screws with Carter pins and you access it on D2's under the left floor plate and there is about a 2 1/2" circle plate you have to do it from it's a pain but it's either that or pull the pony motor and injector pump and pull the whole pony clutch assembly out well you just tighten the two screws up and install new carter pins. The pony cutch assembly is exactly the same except the lever is D2-j-u D4-g-j-t-u D6-r-u.

Hopefully Somone can post some pics of what I'm talking about.

Good Luck!!!-JR
Usually only about three reasons the pinion will not engage and latch.
1. The sleeve assembly has become detached from the pinion.
2. The lever that pulls the sleeve assembly to engage the latches has become worn or bent.
3. The latches and stop are to worn to function properly.

The first two reasons cause loss of correct pinion engagement movement resulting in having to hold in the pinion. There are no adjustments for these two problems.

The third item is adjustable for release rpm but not likely to be your problem.
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Mon, Aug 9, 2010 4:24 AM
Mike Meyer
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Usually only about three reasons the pinion will not engage and latch.
1. The sleeve assembly has become detached from the pinion.
2. The lever that pulls the sleeve assembly to engage the latches has become worn or bent.
3. The latches and stop are to worn to function properly.

The first two reasons cause loss of correct pinion engagement movement resulting in having to hold in the pinion. There are no adjustments for these two problems.

The third item is adjustable for release rpm but not likely to be your problem.
Here you go, hopefully these photo's of my D2 4U starter pinion will give you some idea of what we are talking about, you will see one photo with the sliding gear and it's 2 latches engaged, and another photo of it disengaged. If your gears are grinding it sounds like either starter clutch adjustment or starter pinion brake failure, my RD4 has that problem, the clutch works, but the brake does not.
Good luck
Mike
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Mon, Aug 9, 2010 7:59 AM
cojhl2
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Reply to Mike Meyer:
Here you go, hopefully these photo's of my D2 4U starter pinion will give you some idea of what we are talking about, you will see one photo with the sliding gear and it's 2 latches engaged, and another photo of it disengaged. If your gears are grinding it sounds like either starter clutch adjustment or starter pinion brake failure, my RD4 has that problem, the clutch works, but the brake does not.
Good luck
Mike
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Well from my experience you may as well bite the bullet and remove the starter motor, take the pinion/clutch mechanism out and fix it right.

I did not have to remove the pump but it is a tight fit. You must remove a few cap screws on the inspection plate behind the clutch mechanism.

I put up with these probs until one time it took my ring finger on my right hand down to 1/16th inch
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Mon, Aug 9, 2010 10:32 AM
ol Grump
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Reply to cojhl2:
Well from my experience you may as well bite the bullet and remove the starter motor, take the pinion/clutch mechanism out and fix it right.

I did not have to remove the pump but it is a tight fit. You must remove a few cap screws on the inspection plate behind the clutch mechanism.

I put up with these probs until one time it took my ring finger on my right hand down to 1/16th inch
You didn't say if this is a J or U model but the pinion clutch adjustment is the same for either, just that the J model it's done after you remove a pipe plug and the U model has a small plate to get into the clutch adjustment.

Check to make sure the clutch adjustment isn't too tight before you take the pony off. If it's too tight, the clutch lever will never "snap over" and lock into place. If this is a new acquisition it's possible that the previous owner didn't know how to adjust the pinion clutch.

I'm sort of lazy so I start checking the simplest and most obvious first before I get serious with the wrenches. . .
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Mon, Aug 9, 2010 9:26 PM
cojhl2
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Reply to ol Grump:
You didn't say if this is a J or U model but the pinion clutch adjustment is the same for either, just that the J model it's done after you remove a pipe plug and the U model has a small plate to get into the clutch adjustment.

Check to make sure the clutch adjustment isn't too tight before you take the pony off. If it's too tight, the clutch lever will never "snap over" and lock into place. If this is a new acquisition it's possible that the previous owner didn't know how to adjust the pinion clutch.

I'm sort of lazy so I start checking the simplest and most obvious first before I get serious with the wrenches. . .
But I think what he is having probs with is the pinion. I wonder if he confusing the pinion with the clutch?
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Mon, Aug 9, 2010 9:48 PM
Mike Meyer
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Reply to cojhl2:
But I think what he is having probs with is the pinion. I wonder if he confusing the pinion with the clutch?


Sounds like the pinion grinding into gear with the flywheel, then having to hold the gear in place till it starts the main motor. Either clutch is not disengaging properly, or the pinion brake is not working, followed by the latches not holding when engaged? Or is the clutch just not "locking over" when engaged?

I'd flush that starter pinion/ clutch housing with gas or kerosene at least twice to remove all the old crud, then refill to correct level with ATF, then adjust the pilot clutch till it "Snaps Over" and see what happens. If it still misbehaves like my RD4 does because it's all just pretty worn in there, then either pull the pilot motor and fix it, or buy another old Cat to play on. I've found it's usually cheaper to buy another old Cat because one job always leads to another, which leads to another, and another, etc, etc, etc, just ask Zootownjeepguy 😆😆
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Tue, Aug 10, 2010 5:51 AM
zootownjeepguy
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Reply to Mike Meyer:


Sounds like the pinion grinding into gear with the flywheel, then having to hold the gear in place till it starts the main motor. Either clutch is not disengaging properly, or the pinion brake is not working, followed by the latches not holding when engaged? Or is the clutch just not "locking over" when engaged?

I'd flush that starter pinion/ clutch housing with gas or kerosene at least twice to remove all the old crud, then refill to correct level with ATF, then adjust the pilot clutch till it "Snaps Over" and see what happens. If it still misbehaves like my RD4 does because it's all just pretty worn in there, then either pull the pilot motor and fix it, or buy another old Cat to play on. I've found it's usually cheaper to buy another old Cat because one job always leads to another, which leads to another, and another, etc, etc, etc, just ask Zootownjeepguy 😆😆
[quote="Mike Meyer"]Sounds like the pinion grinding into gear with the flywheel, then having to hold the gear in place till it starts the main motor. Either clutch is not disengaging properly, or the pinion brake is not working, followed by the latches not holding when engaged? Or is the clutch just not "locking over" when engaged?

I'd flush that starter pinion/ clutch housing with gas or kerosene at least twice to remove all the old crud, then refill to correct level with ATF, then adjust the pilot clutch till it "Snaps Over" and see what happens. If it still misbehaves like my RD4 does because it's all just pretty worn in there, then either pull the pilot motor and fix it, or buy another old Cat to play on. I've found it's usually cheaper to buy another old Cat because one job always leads to another, which leads to another, and another, etc, etc, etc, just ask Zootownjeepguy 😆😆[/quote]

HEY!!!!!!! I HEARD THAT!!! 👋
Rich Salvaggio
D2 5U9917
'46 Willys CJ2A Farm Jeep, '39 Buick sedan, '49 International KB-7, '37 Allis Chalmers WC, Cushman Scooter(s)
Antique garden tractors & outboard motors
Other rusty old junk comes & goes without warning.

The 2 most useful tools to have in your shop are a Crystal Ball and a Magic Wand
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Tue, Aug 10, 2010 9:44 AM
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