Steering Clutch release bearings

I believe there was a long conversation/thread on this sometime ago. Without searching it I "think" it was stated it could be done but if it is a retrofit there was a change in the type of hose used.
I'm thinking on my J series, the oil drips run down a tube to be caught by a funnel that directs it into the tube running into the bearing. I don't have a book in front of me right now(?). Farmer3 should know as he has had his apart also.
drujinin

Hi Dennie, The grease will not enter the thrust bearing as the older style lube system relied on the fluid nature of the oil to flow via a small passage way into the bearing race, the grease will just pile up in the oil cup down there then overflow and all you will get is a pile of grease sitting in the bottom of your steering clutch housing and dry thrust bearings. If you were planning on keeping the D2 and using it a lot I'd certainly change over to the grease system when you open up the final drives.

Speaking of which, have you put any fluids in that stuck side yet to try and free up that clutch, I need to unstick a clutch on my new RD6 that is siezed solid, but it is still too cold here for Citric Acid.
regards
Mike

[quote="Mike Meyer"]Hi Dennie, The grease will not enter the thrust bearing as the older style lube system relied on the fluid nature of the oil to flow via a small passage way into the bearing race, the grease will just pile up in the oil cup down there then overflow and all you will get is a pile of grease sitting in the bottom of your steering clutch housing and dry thrust bearings. If you were planning on keeping the D2 and using it a lot I'd certainly change over to the grease system when you open up the final drives.

Speaking of which, have you put any fluids in that stuck side yet to try and free up that clutch, I need to unstick a clutch on my new RD6 that is siezed solid, but it is still too cold here for Citric Acid.
regards
Mike[/quote]yep, I put in citric acid and let her soak for a week, drained her then took her out and got the right brake smokin 😈and pushed against a big tree stump lugging her down to almost stalling and: nada, nope ain't going to happen:flypig:. I then flushed her out with a baking soda mix to nuetrilize any residule acid. Now I'm soaking the clutches with PB blaster! I bought a gallon with a spray bottle and can hit the clutches with a stream, let that area soak for 24 hrs then roll her ahead and hit another area. If nothing else it will make it easier to take apart next winter. I'll leave the oilers in place for the release bearings, maybe change the fittings to be more user friendly.👍
good to hear from you
Regards Dennie

Dennie,When I had mine apart I thought about changing to the grease tubes.I even went to napa and got fittings and lines to do it with.After a closer look I decided that the grease would not get into the bearings where it needed to be.
I believe someone said that the newer models that came with grease fittings had different bearing parts that would confine the grease to the bearing.
I just figgered that it lasted 50 years getting oiled - why change something that works.Sometimes people outsmart themselves.
I am starting to get cought up on the hay ,so I may get a chance to make a run down your way . Joe

I have changed 6 of those thrust (through out) bearings and only 2 were driled for the oil passage way, all my new ones were installed packed with synthetic grease. very resilant to wash out--To bad they dont make sealed thrust bearings

When I replaced my old thrust bearings the first time I was very pleased with myself at having done a A1 job, till I discovered the new thrust bearings were a little "deeper" than the old ones and they neatly blocked the oil passage ways, so I had to remove them and grind a small section away from the outer section of the bearing to let the oil into the race. You will be pleased to know I was quicker second time around.

Hey Dennie, That's too bad about the Citric Acid, I found here that it can take 10-14 days for my Citric Acid bath to eat away rust during the milder Fall temperatures. For example I had my rusted D2 steering clutch plates apart sitting loosely in the bath for 10 days till I felt I'd got rid of most the rust off the plain clutch plates, though I don't think I got rid of all the rust under the clutch plate linings as you can still see some are slightly "swollen" to a certain extent.

The problem in confined spaces like a steering clutch housing is you cannot effectively remove the white scum that builds up on the rusted parts as a by-product of the process, and this scum I'm sure prevents fresh acid from attacking the rust which you need. I take my parts out of the bath every 2-3 days and pressure wash the crud off before returning them to the solution, and it takes a pressure washer to remove the white scum too, a regular garden hose would have no impact at all.

"Fixer" over here in Dreamland (Oz) said he uses a small water pump to circulate the citric acid solution around continuously in his baths to prevent that crud settling out onto the parts being treated and I think that is a great idea, particularly if you were cleaning say a radiator and cooling system, or steering clutch pack in situ.

Hey Dennie, if PB Blaster doesn't work just wait till my bud "Farmer3" comes to visit in the Fall, his sweet Redhead wife will have that final drive apart in no time while you boys BBQ a few ribs and down a chilly brewski's or two on the porch while shootin the breeeze. There ain't nothing that Redhead from New Yoik State couldn't do I reckon after been shown the job once by Farmer3, I know because I've got two redhead teenagers who have taught me to sleep with one eye open at night.😆😆
Good luck brother
Mike

[quote="Mike Meyer"]Hi Dennie, The grease will not enter the thrust bearing as the older style lube system relied on the fluid nature of the oil to flow via a small passage way into the bearing race, the grease will just pile up in the oil cup down there then overflow and all you will get is a pile of grease sitting in the bottom of your steering clutch housing and dry thrust bearings. If you were planning on keeping the D2 and using it a lot I'd certainly change over to the grease system when you open up the final drives.

Speaking of which, have you put any fluids in that stuck side yet to try and free up that clutch, I need to unstick a clutch on my new RD6 that is siezed solid, but it is still too cold here for Citric Acid.
regards
Mike[/quote]yep, I put in citric acid and let her soak for a week, drained her then took her out and got the right brake smokin 😈and pushed against a big tree stump lugging her down to almost stalling and: nada, nope ain't going to happen:flypig:. I then flushed her out with a baking soda mix to nuetrilize any residule acid. Now I'm soaking the clutches with PB blaster! I bought a gallon with a spray bottle and can hit the clutches with a stream, let that area soak for 24 hrs then roll her ahead and hit another area. If nothing else it will make it easier to take apart next winter. I'll leave the oilers in place for the release bearings, maybe change the fittings to be more user friendly.👍
good to hear from you
Regards Dennie

Dennie,

Have you taken up all the free play you can on the adjustment?

Cat used to have a changeover kit to the grease type lube system. It was listed in the D2 parts book. I have never had one apart without changing over. I have one D2 with a grease type on one side and the oil type on the other.

Tom

[quote="8C 361"]Dennie,

Have you taken up all the free play you can on the adjustment?

Cat used to have a changeover kit to the grease type lube system. It was listed in the D2 parts book. I have never had one apart without changing over. I have one D2 with a grease type on one side and the oil type on the other.

Tom[/quote]
Tom here's the problem, the right clutch is stuck in the disengage mode, I'm not sure if someone pulled the handle back while it was setting outside, as in the kids playing on it and it stuck there or according to threads it could be a bad release bearing. The right hand steering clutch lever just flops around😞😞
I have a small jack lightly pushing on the back of the adjusting screw to push it back to the engaged position, but I don't hold out much hope for anything but disassembly

Thanks👍
Dennie