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D2 recoil spring

D2 recoil spring

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pbamburak
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Hello, all,

I am working on a 1949 D2, S/N 4U2326. Good news is that I got the machine free, bad news is I got what I paid for! I love a challenge and I am having a lot of fun.

The track adjusting nut assembly and the bolt that runs through the recoil spring are damaged and I want to disassemble them for inspection and replacement. I have read in other posts, mostly about the 22 (which I am also working on), that the recoil springs are often under extreme compression and parts will fly if certain care is not taken during this process. But I don't see this mentioned about the D2 recoil springs, and the shop manual even shows a picture of a technician simply adjusting the springs in a bench vise. Not a word about caution.

Any advise from someone who has done this job before would be most welcome!

Paul Bamburak
Trenton, NJ
609-882-0366
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Wed, Mar 3, 2010 11:32 PM
oldparker
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Those D2 recoil springs are under great pressure. They are DANGEROUS. Read the service manual and review the past posts about this subject before you do anything.
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Wed, Mar 3, 2010 11:48 PM
SJ
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Reply to oldparker:
Those D2 recoil springs are under great pressure. They are DANGEROUS. Read the service manual and review the past posts about this subject before you do anything.
At the dealer we changed lots of broken springs and we,d weld a couple pieces of angle iron on the end plates to secure the spring and then then remove it from the tractor.Possibly you could do the same and install a new bolt and nut or take it to a dealer or where they have have a big press and then disassemble it after you cut the angle iron off and relieve the press. Then a new bolt can be inserted down the top end plate and again press it together and the nut installed to button it up. There is a demention for the spring length so you,ll need it. I don,t have the chart here for them but the dealer would or maybe someone on here.
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Wed, Mar 3, 2010 11:57 PM
Rd6 plower
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Don't under estimate track springs they are dangerous if handled wrong!😮

But usally they are just fine to remove and install but when you take them apart that's when stuff goes flying but if you have some sort of compresser it will be fine.😄

The thing we have always done is remove the entire spring assembly and replace it off another cat that's if either the inner or outer spring is broken. But if it's just the threads on it then you could buy a die or take it to a machinest and have them do it. With out haveing to disassemble the spring assembly.

If you have or can borrow a D2 servicemans reference book(it's yellow) it will show you step by step how to work and with photos!😄
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Wed, Mar 3, 2010 11:59 PM
oldparker
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Reply to SJ:
At the dealer we changed lots of broken springs and we,d weld a couple pieces of angle iron on the end plates to secure the spring and then then remove it from the tractor.Possibly you could do the same and install a new bolt and nut or take it to a dealer or where they have have a big press and then disassemble it after you cut the angle iron off and relieve the press. Then a new bolt can be inserted down the top end plate and again press it together and the nut installed to button it up. There is a demention for the spring length so you,ll need it. I don,t have the chart here for them but the dealer would or maybe someone on here.
The service manual says 17 1/16" excluding the guides.
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Thu, Mar 4, 2010 12:02 AM
SJ
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Reply to oldparker:
The service manual says 17 1/16" excluding the guides.
If the bolt is all that,s broke then it is dangerous to remove so that,s why I said we welded two pieces of angle iron on each end of the plates and then remove it.Also if the spring is broke we always took a cutting torch and cut more of the spring to relieve the tension and then remove it.One time at the shop one came in with a broken bolt and the mechanic took the track off to work on the under carriage and he tied back the idler and spring and after he removed the track he cut the chain and that idler and spring assemby flew 20 ft. out the door.It was a D7 or D8 I,m not sure as it,s been too long ago to remember so they are a dangerous thing to work (repair) if you never had any experience working on a broken one.
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Thu, Mar 4, 2010 12:54 AM
PaulA
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Reply to SJ:
If the bolt is all that,s broke then it is dangerous to remove so that,s why I said we welded two pieces of angle iron on each end of the plates and then remove it.Also if the spring is broke we always took a cutting torch and cut more of the spring to relieve the tension and then remove it.One time at the shop one came in with a broken bolt and the mechanic took the track off to work on the under carriage and he tied back the idler and spring and after he removed the track he cut the chain and that idler and spring assemby flew 20 ft. out the door.It was a D7 or D8 I,m not sure as it,s been too long ago to remember so they are a dangerous thing to work (repair) if you never had any experience working on a broken one.
I have 2 broken recoil spring bolts to deal with this spring on a D4. I'm leaning toward cutting the springs in place and just putting new springs and bolts in. I hate working with springs and I can't think of another way of handling this that's in my comfort zone. When things go wrong you're either lucky ... or you aren't and I haven't won the lotto recently. No machine is worth getting injured or killed over just to save a couple of dollars.

If the bolt isn't broken, you still need a press to take things apart. No way would I do that in a vice. You need to unload the nut and then have some way of unscrewing it while holding the spring under pressure. I think somebody had a post on how much pressure they needed to compress the spring to loosen the nut. I forget the number, but it was more than 5 or 10 ton I think, and it might have been a lot more.

I was really ticked off when I figured out those bolts were broken. It's the one job I really didn't want to do.
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Thu, Mar 4, 2010 1:42 AM
ccjersey
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Reply to SJ:
If the bolt is all that,s broke then it is dangerous to remove so that,s why I said we welded two pieces of angle iron on each end of the plates and then remove it.Also if the spring is broke we always took a cutting torch and cut more of the spring to relieve the tension and then remove it.One time at the shop one came in with a broken bolt and the mechanic took the track off to work on the under carriage and he tied back the idler and spring and after he removed the track he cut the chain and that idler and spring assemby flew 20 ft. out the door.It was a D7 or D8 I,m not sure as it,s been too long ago to remember so they are a dangerous thing to work (repair) if you never had any experience working on a broken one.
If the track is tight, you have to relieve the pressure to remove the master link pin.

To do this, loosen the track tension adjustment as much as possible. Park the tractor with the master pin in a good position to remove it. (Usually either at the front of the idler or back of the sprocket).

To compress the spring, you can then connect a heavy chain between the front idler and the spokes of the sprocket. When you (carefully!) move the tractor, the chain will pull the idler back, compressing the spring. Lock the brake, stop the engine and put it in gear, engage the clutch, etc so it can't move and then break the track.

Then you can carefully let the sprocket rotate forward again relieving the pressure on the spring. Replace the spring bolt, set the length and reinstall.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Thu, Mar 4, 2010 1:49 AM
Mike Meyer
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Reply to ccjersey:
If the track is tight, you have to relieve the pressure to remove the master link pin.

To do this, loosen the track tension adjustment as much as possible. Park the tractor with the master pin in a good position to remove it. (Usually either at the front of the idler or back of the sprocket).

To compress the spring, you can then connect a heavy chain between the front idler and the spokes of the sprocket. When you (carefully!) move the tractor, the chain will pull the idler back, compressing the spring. Lock the brake, stop the engine and put it in gear, engage the clutch, etc so it can't move and then break the track.

Then you can carefully let the sprocket rotate forward again relieving the pressure on the spring. Replace the spring bolt, set the length and reinstall.
Hey CC Jersey, good advice from you as usual. I'm just doing my D2 4U right now, and have the springs off as the threads were shot, get ready for a shock if you intend using Cat parts, I just priced the bolt ($180 each) and the adjuster nuts were $320 each. Needless to say I'll be using some Grade 8 all thread and fabricating a slightly less expensive solution.
Mike
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Thu, Mar 4, 2010 3:30 AM
SJ
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Reply to ccjersey:
If the track is tight, you have to relieve the pressure to remove the master link pin.

To do this, loosen the track tension adjustment as much as possible. Park the tractor with the master pin in a good position to remove it. (Usually either at the front of the idler or back of the sprocket).

To compress the spring, you can then connect a heavy chain between the front idler and the spokes of the sprocket. When you (carefully!) move the tractor, the chain will pull the idler back, compressing the spring. Lock the brake, stop the engine and put it in gear, engage the clutch, etc so it can't move and then break the track.

Then you can carefully let the sprocket rotate forward again relieving the pressure on the spring. Replace the spring bolt, set the length and reinstall.
Paul, as I stated before at the dealer we welded an angle iron on each end plate to stabilize it front to back and then removed it and then put it in our big press we had at the dealer and stabilized it and cut the angle irons away from the two end plates and then relieved the pressure carefully on the press till the spring was relaxed.I don,t imagine a springs would be very cheap today so I,d save them if possible if it,s not broken.
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Thu, Mar 4, 2010 3:38 AM
PaulA
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Reply to SJ:
Paul, as I stated before at the dealer we welded an angle iron on each end plate to stabilize it front to back and then removed it and then put it in our big press we had at the dealer and stabilized it and cut the angle irons away from the two end plates and then relieved the pressure carefully on the press till the spring was relaxed.I don,t imagine a springs would be very cheap today so I,d save them if possible if it,s not broken.
I might be able to do that on one side, the other is all bodged up with angle welded in between the spring and the idler yoke. There may not be a safe way of taking that apart. I've been putting off checking prices, but I ought to get to that pretty soon. I have a parts tractor with hydraulic adjusters, I'll have to check s/n to see if they're compatible. That's another possibility.
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Wed, Mar 10, 2010 10:31 AM
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