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D46U injection pump adjustment

D46U injection pump adjustment

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cat60
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My service manual shows the injectiom pump removed with a wheel mounted on the drive shaft. My pump is now removed for an engine overhaul.

Is this the time to find a wheel and do the adjustments?

Can the adjustment be made without the wheel?

Or can I also adjust the pump after everything is assembled?
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Fri, Feb 26, 2010 11:57 AM
Old Magnet
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Your last statement is correct.
Put it all together then check the lifter settings. Rack setting requires a special tool but not likely to change unless parts have been interchanged.
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Fri, Feb 26, 2010 1:30 PM
SJ
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Your last statement is correct.
Put it all together then check the lifter settings. Rack setting requires a special tool but not likely to change unless parts have been interchanged.
Yes the way for you to set your lifters without the correct tools is to do it on the engine.Start out by putting your engine on TDC firing order after the housing is installed and the lifter will just be starting up from the bottom when it,s right.The firing order is 1-3-4-2 and the screws are 1-2-3-4 from the front of the tractor and the lifters are set with depth mikes and the setting is 1.736"on TDC. The tractor valves can (should) be set too at this time too at .010".The housing going back can,t be installed wrong as it has an offset tang drive so can only go on right so eye the drive up and the cam in the housing turn it so they,ll match up.
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Fri, Feb 26, 2010 8:22 PM
ccjersey
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Reply to SJ:
Yes the way for you to set your lifters without the correct tools is to do it on the engine.Start out by putting your engine on TDC firing order after the housing is installed and the lifter will just be starting up from the bottom when it,s right.The firing order is 1-3-4-2 and the screws are 1-2-3-4 from the front of the tractor and the lifters are set with depth mikes and the setting is 1.736"on TDC. The tractor valves can (should) be set too at this time too at .010".The housing going back can,t be installed wrong as it has an offset tang drive so can only go on right so eye the drive up and the cam in the housing turn it so they,ll match up.
You're probably better off doing it on the engine anyway. The degree wheel procedure cannot account for any wear on the gears that drive the pump.

When you do it on the engine, turn the flywheel exactly to the timing mark but never back up to align the mark. If you go past, back up a long way and come back up to it again so all the slack in the gears is taken out.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sat, Feb 27, 2010 2:29 AM
SJ
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Reply to ccjersey:
You're probably better off doing it on the engine anyway. The degree wheel procedure cannot account for any wear on the gears that drive the pump.

When you do it on the engine, turn the flywheel exactly to the timing mark but never back up to align the mark. If you go past, back up a long way and come back up to it again so all the slack in the gears is taken out.
CC, I fogot to mention, your right on you never back up to get to the number and turn the engine clockwise from the fan or CCW from the clutch end to the numbers with the pointer to them exactly.
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Sat, Feb 27, 2010 3:57 AM
cat60
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Reply to SJ:
CC, I fogot to mention, your right on you never back up to get to the number and turn the engine clockwise from the fan or CCW from the clutch end to the numbers with the pointer to them exactly.
TDC for number 1 is on the timing marks, how do you find the other's? (Number 4 will also be on the timing marks) I have used a dial indicator before on smaller engines but never through a pre combustion chamber. I could mark the flywheel before I assemble it. Thanks for the tip on the gear lash.

It's going to be a while before I do this, how do I save this information so I can find it when I want it?
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Sat, Feb 27, 2010 12:21 PM
cat60
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Your last statement is correct.
Put it all together then check the lifter settings. Rack setting requires a special tool but not likely to change unless parts have been interchanged.
[quote="Old Magnet"]Your last statement is correct.
Put it all together then check the lifter settings. Rack setting requires a special tool but not likely to change unless parts have been interchanged.[/quote]

Come to think of it, the liknkage has a normal ratchet sound (I think it is normal) but a couple of times the throttle was WOT but the injectors were not fueling through the line I had cracked until I ran the throttle back to idle and then up again. It seemed that the ratchet pin was not catching on the rack. (That is pure imagination, I don't know what it looks like inside.)
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Sat, Feb 27, 2010 12:30 PM
SJ
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Reply to cat60:
[quote="Old Magnet"]Your last statement is correct.
Put it all together then check the lifter settings. Rack setting requires a special tool but not likely to change unless parts have been interchanged.[/quote]

Come to think of it, the liknkage has a normal ratchet sound (I think it is normal) but a couple of times the throttle was WOT but the injectors were not fueling through the line I had cracked until I ran the throttle back to idle and then up again. It seemed that the ratchet pin was not catching on the rack. (That is pure imagination, I don't know what it looks like inside.)
On the 4cyl. there is only two positions on the flywheel and two numbers on each mark. On number one there is 1 and 4 and a half turn around you come to the other set 2 and 3. As I mentioned each cyl. has to be on the firing order to set the lifters and as you look at the lifters in the housing the one your coming up to will just start up from the bottom position in the housing on the number on the flywheel and also the engine valves both will be loose for the correct position on the right one.The only thing that can screw things up is if the flywheel was put on wrong and then the numbers will not be right.Later Cat engines corrected that by one flywheel hole off center from the rest and you won,t be able to get all the bolts in the flywheel if it is wrong.Your tractor engine will have a notch or mark on the flywheel and the crankshaft to line up for it to be correct. Forgot to mention if the lifter is not right when you go to set it then turn the engine one full turn around to get the lifter to just start up from it,s bottom position in the injection housing and then set it to the 1.736".
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Sat, Feb 27, 2010 8:56 PM
cat60
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Reply to SJ:
On the 4cyl. there is only two positions on the flywheel and two numbers on each mark. On number one there is 1 and 4 and a half turn around you come to the other set 2 and 3. As I mentioned each cyl. has to be on the firing order to set the lifters and as you look at the lifters in the housing the one your coming up to will just start up from the bottom position in the housing on the number on the flywheel and also the engine valves both will be loose for the correct position on the right one.The only thing that can screw things up is if the flywheel was put on wrong and then the numbers will not be right.Later Cat engines corrected that by one flywheel hole off center from the rest and you won,t be able to get all the bolts in the flywheel if it is wrong.Your tractor engine will have a notch or mark on the flywheel and the crankshaft to line up for it to be correct. Forgot to mention if the lifter is not right when you go to set it then turn the engine one full turn around to get the lifter to just start up from it,s bottom position in the injection housing and then set it to the 1.736".
Thanks for your help. If you don't mind, I'll get back to you later this spring or summer when the engine is assembled.
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Sun, Feb 28, 2010 1:45 AM
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