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d2 cat, adust the main clutch

d2 cat, adust the main clutch

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scubahoward
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i am woking on my d2, the question i have is does the hand clutch lock in place or do you have to hold it in to move. i have the motor out of it and was planning on reinstalling it this weekend. i can move the lever forward and back but it never stays in the pulling position. is this correct?
if it locks back into the pull position. do you have any ideas on how to do this?
thank you
howard
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Fri, Feb 19, 2010 10:44 AM
Rd6 plower
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Sounds to me like your clutch adjustment is way to tight. They are a over center clutch and snap in when you engage it. Try loosing the clutch adjustment. And you do that through the cover under the pony flywheel and there's a collar with a spring loaded pull pin at one of the end of the fingers. So you pull it and as you are pulling it you turn it counter clockwise proably about 1-2 turns then make sure the pin snaps back into one of the holes on the clutch plate. Well good luck fellow CAT lover!😄
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Fri, Feb 19, 2010 11:05 AM
Jack
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Reply to Rd6 plower:
Sounds to me like your clutch adjustment is way to tight. They are a over center clutch and snap in when you engage it. Try loosing the clutch adjustment. And you do that through the cover under the pony flywheel and there's a collar with a spring loaded pull pin at one of the end of the fingers. So you pull it and as you are pulling it you turn it counter clockwise proably about 1-2 turns then make sure the pin snaps back into one of the holes on the clutch plate. Well good luck fellow CAT lover!😄
Rd6 gave good directions for a 5J D2. If it's a 5U, I believe you loosen a lock screw instead of pulling a spring-loaded pin. Otherwise, everything he says is right. You can stop the shaft while you adjust the collar by slipping it into gear. The adjustment gets pretty sticky some times, figure on a little penetrating oil to free it up.

If that rig has been sitting for a long time, the driving disk and driven plates seem to "swell up" just a little--moisture, rust, crud, etc. Loosen as advised, but figure on tightening it up again after it has worked for a bit and gotten everything polished up again.
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Fri, Feb 19, 2010 11:29 AM
Rd6 plower
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Reply to Jack:
Rd6 gave good directions for a 5J D2. If it's a 5U, I believe you loosen a lock screw instead of pulling a spring-loaded pin. Otherwise, everything he says is right. You can stop the shaft while you adjust the collar by slipping it into gear. The adjustment gets pretty sticky some times, figure on a little penetrating oil to free it up.

If that rig has been sitting for a long time, the driving disk and driven plates seem to "swell up" just a little--moisture, rust, crud, etc. Loosen as advised, but figure on tightening it up again after it has worked for a bit and gotten everything polished up again.
It's all the same between the early u's and j's from the bell housing back the ponys are the same cept manifolds even the bell housing interchanges between the D3400 and D311 and the pony clutch is the same on all D3400,D4400,D4600,D311,D315,and D318 engines.
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Fri, Feb 19, 2010 11:53 AM
Jack
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Reply to Rd6 plower:
It's all the same between the early u's and j's from the bell housing back the ponys are the same cept manifolds even the bell housing interchanges between the D3400 and D311 and the pony clutch is the same on all D3400,D4400,D4600,D311,D315,and D318 engines.
Interesting. I never realized that. I recently became aware (by question on this B😎 that a 5U used a thicker driving disk than a 5J. I just supposed that was where they made the change to a different clutch. I own a 5J, havn't worked on a 5U chassis for a long time. Then again, my memory isn't what it used to be for a long time...
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Sat, Feb 20, 2010 10:41 AM
alganon
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Reply to Rd6 plower:
Sounds to me like your clutch adjustment is way to tight. They are a over center clutch and snap in when you engage it. Try loosing the clutch adjustment. And you do that through the cover under the pony flywheel and there's a collar with a spring loaded pull pin at one of the end of the fingers. So you pull it and as you are pulling it you turn it counter clockwise proably about 1-2 turns then make sure the pin snaps back into one of the holes on the clutch plate. Well good luck fellow CAT lover!😄


Gentlemen ,

I have a 5u and the spring loaded pin is not locating in the holes , I think it might be broken off or worn . Is it removable / repairable ? I stuffed my camera in to get a better look but it looks like it's riveted on . I take back the "riveted on" now that I see it again . Could it be threaded and screwed in ? There's no hex that I can see .

Thanks in advance ,
Barry[attachment=26055]IMG_1684.jpg[/attachment][attachment=26056]IMG_1682.jpg[/attachment]
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Sat, Nov 22, 2014 10:05 AM
drujinin
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Reply to alganon:


Gentlemen ,

I have a 5u and the spring loaded pin is not locating in the holes , I think it might be broken off or worn . Is it removable / repairable ? I stuffed my camera in to get a better look but it looks like it's riveted on . I take back the "riveted on" now that I see it again . Could it be threaded and screwed in ? There's no hex that I can see .

Thanks in advance ,
Barry[attachment=26055]IMG_1684.jpg[/attachment][attachment=26056]IMG_1682.jpg[/attachment]
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its currently located in a hole? Its not screwed in or threaded. There is a spring captured inside that holds the pin into the clutch disk. Are you trying to adjust it?
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Sat, Nov 22, 2014 7:42 PM
restore49
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Reply to drujinin:
its currently located in a hole? Its not screwed in or threaded. There is a spring captured inside that holds the pin into the clutch disk. Are you trying to adjust it?
When I adjusted mine would pull out the spring loaded knob wedge a ground down wooden clothes pin under while adjusting. Bob
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Sat, Nov 22, 2014 8:22 PM
Sasquatch
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Reply to restore49:
When I adjusted mine would pull out the spring loaded knob wedge a ground down wooden clothes pin under while adjusting. Bob
Yes it does look like it's engaged into a locking hole and it also looks like it's seated properly. With the clutch disengaged, if you hold the pressure plates stationary can you still rotate the clutch spider assembly without pulling out on the pin? If so, then the little end of the locking pin may be worn or sheared off. When that pin is working like it should, you would have to pull out on the knob on the end of it to get the spider to rotate around the pressure plates. About the only way to really see the end of the locking pin is to thread the clutch spider back away from the pressure plates far enough to get a gap between them wide enough to see how far the locking pin protrudes out of the back side of the spider when the pin is seated. If the pin is broken, you'll most likely have to split the tractor to get the clutch and spider out where you can actually work on it, or possibly just replace the spider assembly with another one that has a good pin.
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Sat, Nov 22, 2014 10:57 PM
dpendzic
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Reply to Sasquatch:
Yes it does look like it's engaged into a locking hole and it also looks like it's seated properly. With the clutch disengaged, if you hold the pressure plates stationary can you still rotate the clutch spider assembly without pulling out on the pin? If so, then the little end of the locking pin may be worn or sheared off. When that pin is working like it should, you would have to pull out on the knob on the end of it to get the spider to rotate around the pressure plates. About the only way to really see the end of the locking pin is to thread the clutch spider back away from the pressure plates far enough to get a gap between them wide enough to see how far the locking pin protrudes out of the back side of the spider when the pin is seated. If the pin is broken, you'll most likely have to split the tractor to get the clutch and spider out where you can actually work on it, or possibly just replace the spider assembly with another one that has a good pin.
Toby--if it is a late model U can't the whole assembly be removed thru the top cover plate?? I think 1953 and later?
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Sun, Nov 23, 2014 4:05 AM
Sasquatch
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Reply to dpendzic:
Toby--if it is a late model U can't the whole assembly be removed thru the top cover plate?? I think 1953 and later?


Yep that's right, thanks for bringing that up. In 1953 starting with serial #5U13237 there was a major design change that allowed the main clutch to be removed without splitting the tractor. Anything prior to that serial number would have to be split to remove those components.
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Sun, Nov 23, 2014 5:57 AM
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