D4D steering clutch replacment .Is it hard to do?

You need to lift of the cab and fuel tank. How about the AC unit? Is it self contained so you can take compressor and hoses off the engine and remove everything with out unloading the gas? The Hyd drive Tube Lock units are good that way. Now about the problem, most likely the release bearing has come apart. If you pull the lever and hold the brake the engine will load(direct drive) or the machine will stop(powershift). You need an A Frame or some other lifting devise. Clean off cover good and make sure all bolts are out, pry it loose gentely. Many have been broken from too much force and a missed bolt. Take a pic or note the side the bevel gear is on to maintain for/rev directions as they are. Need puller to take hubs off and press on. DISREGARDE SPECS in book, press clutch hubs back onto shaft with only 8 to 10 tons of force or you will split them. The release bearings are marked THRUST HERE and must be installed the correct way or will pull apart first time used.
Later Bob

I have pictures available from disassembling a 941 with powershift which I believe is similar to a d4d with powershift. If you want me to send pictures, contact me off-list. My bearing was bad and broke the release fork. [email protected]

Laying tracks, I'm not to far from you, down in Asotin.
I did the clutchs on an 84J last year it wasn't to bad as Bob said, cab, fuel tank come off. Along with battery boxes. I took the fenders off as well witch made it easyer for me. Remember the top of the clutch housing is seperate from the tranny, this isn't always obvious when things are covered in dirt and grease. There are also two pins under two small covers on top of the clutch housing, as I recall they are threaded so you can screw a 3/8 (I think) bolt in them to pull them out. These disengage the forks from the linkage in the cover. Speaking of the linkage in the cover while the cover is off turn it over and check the adjustment of the booster spring.
As Bob said note the relation of the bevel gear to the pinion, and before you loosen the bearing cages ,assumeing they are tight, get your dail indicator and measure and note the back lash in the gears this helps during reassembly.
At Western States in Lewiston they let me borrow their lifting hooks to yard the assembly out they were basicly just two big hooks cut out of 1/4'' plate with a chain connecting them so you could reach the shaft and lift it securly.

After I got them out then I took the whole assembly to Western and let them check and press them apart/together. If you have any questions call at 509-243-3329. Hope this helps and have fun.
Bruce

Laying tracks. Went and checked my service manual. Those two pins are under the large rectangular plate in the middle of the clutch cover, after you take the cover off then there are two plugs with slots for a large screw driver. under the plugs are the pins.
Also the retangular plates on each side need removed they hold the brake anchors.
Hope this helps

Bruce

[quote="Bruce P"]Laying tracks. Went and checked my service manual. Those two pins are under the large rectangular plate in the middle of the clutch cover, after you take the cover off then there are two plugs with slots for a large screw driver. under the plugs are the pins.
Also the retangular plates on each side need removed they hold the brake anchors.


Hope this helps

Bruce[/quote]


Can I revive this old thread? I have just replaced the throwout bearings on my 82J D4D. I've got everything back together, but I need help adjusting everything out. Before, when I'd pull on either clutch lever, it was like pulling on a bungee cord..clutch would engage and all was well. Now after putting it back together, when I pull either clutch handle, they click and will stay in the clutch applied position without me holding the lever back. What do I need to do?

Worn serrations on the driving and driven steering clutch drums can cause the discs to hang up.