Hello Ron are the terminals on the generator yhe same diameter ?
One thing about bosch is they call their alternators "generators" on their website, so this might be an alternator. I would run the engine and test for voltage between the two terminals on the "generator" and also from each one to the generator frame. Are you sure there is no + and -? Scrape the paint down to bare steel/aluminum near the terminals
I'm thinking that the regulator is for the "generator" and goes inside. Many large aftermarket alternators like a Leece-Neville have only 2 large terminals, one is positive and the other is negative. You wire whichever one you want to ground and use the other for the hot. The alternator doesn't care.
If that doesn't work out, quickest way to get to the bottom of this is take it off and go to a competent generator and starter shop with all the parts.π
Does it have lights and heater etc that you want to run with the 24v or direct electric starter????
The grader is at the D-A Scout Camp in Metamora, Michigan, so I am replying from memory. The terminals on the generator are both on a isolated boss and are the same Dia. Did not see any mark + , - or F , A but will look next time I am there.
I know that some manufactors played games with what they called there product. If it has a slip rings then it has a AC output. If it has a commutator then it has a DC output. I will try to get grader started to see what output I get and mark terminals.
From walk around that I did, I think it is a 8t grader that came from cat with a 24 volt system not an 6 volt system. It has an pony motor with 24 volt starter, generator, military lights, and a magneto for the pony motor, that looks like it would work under water, I do not know about gauges but would think they are 24 volt as well.
Both bosch RGR voltage regulator are almost the size of the generator and have two wires that come out of them, and are not labeled. Thank you for the thumbnails, they are both like what I would expect to see, not like how these two regulators are wired.
It has two sets of head lights, four foward and two back, 24 volt horn and back up alarm, no cab, no heat so I also think that 960 watts is way over kill ( hit fly with slug hammer ).
It has wires for batteries but my plan is to use without battery regulator get electrical system working for gauges, then get pony motor and cab controls working, then get electric starter working, and then buy batteries and change voltage regulator to with battery.
Yes, you have some of that weird military stuff. The generator terminal tower you describe is typical Radio Shielded and Fungus Proofed. Probably similar construction for the Regulators. Sorry I don't have info other than typical industrial and commercial.
Two wire cut-out's were common with three brush generators,some three brush generators had a terminal for an external field which would be hooked to a resistor switch going to ground,this was used so the output of the generator could be adjusted manually,three brush generators without an external field would have an internal one and that generator output could not be adjusted,its more than likely the generator that you have on there is not charging if its not been hooked up,you should have it off and take it to the auto electric shop for it to be ID'd,tested and sort you out a regulator to suit,then before you put it back on you need to fit a set of batteries so you can check out the electrics on the machine with battery power rather than the way you suggest running it up and using power from the generator,if there is anything wrong in any compoent or the wiring and you start the engine with the generator hooked up it or the regulator will be "burned out" in an instance,so to avoid that use battery power.
AJ
Hello Everone
I would like to bring you up to date.
Both terminals on the generator are 8-32 studs with nuts and lock washers.
I did not see and + or- marks, but found a 3-67 stamped, (I think date made)
Also found "use RGR 2440-C-217 regular " on data plate of generator. If anyone has wiring diagram I would appreciate a posting.
Starter is a Remy model 1109906 sn 338 marked 24 volts. looks like starter in parts book but 24 volts not 6 volts
Magneto has a caterpillar name plate but has American Bosch model
4/2360c-420 sn 3a375929. Did Caterpillar put American Bosch magnetos on as a OEM part?
Has two dead 12 volt batteries wired in series.
Did not try to pull start, as it was cold and was given other very hot job! I plan to work on grader asap.
Yes I planned on using battery power to find all (I hope) of the open or shorted wires in the electrical system, it is not a good idea to "turn it on" to see what happens. It is a lot easer to keep the smoke in, then to put it back, after it gets out!
P.S. I was told that the caterpillar D318 has dippers on the rod caps( same as very old cars) and that is why, you check the oil after it is running. I find this hard to believe, but would believe there are places in engine that will hold oil when engine is running. If you check oil level when running, how do you know if it is safe to start?
thanks Ron
Checking the oil........
Basically just make sure it has oil over the full mark on the stick before you crank it. While turning the main with the pony motor, make sure it builds up oil pressure before opening the throttle. Then once it gets running and warmed up well, check and add to full mark if necessary. There is a shield around the stick so it doesn't get splattered with oil spray when the engine is running. This allows oil to be checked without shutting down the engine which is nice in some situations. On some later engines, CAT put 2 full marks on the stick, one for running and one for engine stopped.
No, there are no dippers on the rod caps in the diesel. It is a full pressure system (in the tractors, there is a scavenge pump to pull oil from both the front and back secondary sumps of the oil pan and return it to the main sump so the tractor can safely operate on extreme slopes. The grader has a scavenge pump section on the main pump and front suction bell as well as the main pump and suction. The last graders with the D318 had an oil clutch and had a secondary section of the oil pump to put engine oil into the clutch unlike the tractors with oil clutches which have separate compartments for engine and clutch oil.
The starting motor is "splash" lubricated and along with the fact that it only holds 1 1/2 quarts of oil, does not survive well with diluted oil. This is the reason for the long standing recommendation to shut the pony down by shutting off the gasoline instead of killing the mag. You must have a tight shutoff as well. π
Yes, CAT used American Bosch magnetos with CAT part numbers on the tag. In some of the older parts books, D25J with Eiseman mag for example) the manufacturer's part numbers are listed as well as the CAT part numbers for the mag and individual parts.