D2 Radiator Core removal

It will be a little awkward but the radiator can be parted at the bottom tank flange without disturbing the #44 pump and drive.

Personally I would take it completely apart because then you can detail all the radiator shell parts by sand blasting and repainting them especially the bottom tank that will probably be caked with rust. It's not hard to remove the #44 it just slides off the shaft when you pull it. Installing the new core will be much more easier with all the sealing surfaces clean.
I detailed one of my D2s one time this way. My oil cooler needed replaced anyway and I machined a new pump splined coupling that had the internal splines worn paper thin. After I restored everything I knew what I had.

I am not sure how the 44 is mounted to the radiator. I have seen the large nuts between the radiator and 44 tank and do I remove them first or do I remove all the attaching hardware on the radiator, remove the bottom bolts from the support. remove the hydraulic lines then the radiator and the 44 hydraulic unit slide off the shaft as a unit ? Bear with me as I am learning and don't want to create more work than necessary.

side-seat..... The underneath of this radiator is in really good shape....no rust at all on the radiator. There is no oil cooler as it is a later model.

Old Magnet....This D2 has put me in a lot of awkward positions since I started....*L*.....not to mention the bruised and battered knuckles and the "colorful" language I have used to describe some parts....*L* but it has been fun.

another reason to take off the bottom tank with the radiator is the rad shop will be able to fill it to check for leaks, tough to do without it. you might only have 1 visible leak now and 3 more pluged with ?, once they boil out the rad they will likely spot more.

to remove pump, drain oil, remove lines, back out the 4 large bolts, be prepared for 200 pounds+ when you slide the 44 out. 2 men or a hoist.

Hi Cysco,
here is a scan from the SRB Form No 12914-2, dated 09-56, Hydraulic Controls & Equipment.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

Thanks edb....that will help.

I am not really clear on one thing though..........do I need to remove the 44 tank via the four bolts and it slides off the shaft and then remove/slide the radiator off the shaft. Just trying to get the order of removal right. I have an overhead chain hoist and a heavy hydraulic "cherry picker" that should do the heavy lifting. The only regret is losing the hydraulic fluid as I had just put it in. Thanks for the help ........Bill

Cysco,
If I remember correctly, the shaft will slide out of the coupling and that's between the radiator and the engine. You really don't have to drain the hydraulic tank to remove it. Just remember, that thing is HEAVY! Once the unit is off and out of the way, the radiator could be lifted off.

As far as losing the hydraulic fluid, when you uncouple the lines from the hydraulic unit you'll lose a couple of pints out of the lines. Just make sure the blade is down all the way with all pressure off the hydraulics otherwise you'll get a spurt of oil when you take the lines loose from the tank.

another reason to take off the bottom tank with the radiator is the rad shop will be able to fill it to check for leaks, tough to do without it. you might only have 1 visible leak now and 3 more pluged with ?, once they boil out the rad they will likely spot more.

to remove pump, drain oil, remove lines, back out the 4 large bolts, be prepared for 200 pounds+ when you slide the 44 out. 2 men or a hoist.