D4 7U water coolant in wet clutch! (crack)

Kind of unusual to crack there....must have froze at some time in its history. I don't know if you can reach the depth of the whole passage to do the fix you are suggesting but it's worth a shot. You'd have to get clean surfaces for anything to stick.

That D2 that doesn't run and is missing pieces is only worth scrap value. Might throw in a few extra bucks for the pto (worth about $350) and the pump if it's a #44 (range of $250 to $1,000) if in good condition. At $1,500 your not likely to recover your efforts.

i am going to take a picture of this crack and post hopefully tuesday
i am not very computer literate so it takes the help of my significant other
god bless her!

ya thats what i was afraid of with the d2

I don't know if it will work in that spot I don't know why it would not but I have had really good luck with bars stop leak. I run it in just about everything even it don't leak because it has lubrication properties. I put it in an international that had water/antifreeze in the engine oil. I check it everytime I use it because I don't trust it that much but it has been two years and not a drop yet. Take it for what it is worth I am a believer. In case the jb weld doesn't work.

After sleeping on the topic😊 ....that thought also occurred to me....may be well within the range of fixes for the "Bars Leak". Give it a try, might be just that easy unless you've got the Grand Canyon of cracks in there.

how much bar's stop leak do you put in? is there a ratio of bottles per gallons, we all know they hold a lot of coolant!
it never leaked externally. i did wire brush and clean the coolant port and crack area, then heated the area and put j.b. on it as far as i could reach with my liitle finger. generally i like to fix things right, but i dont have the facilities to pull this motor out for the repiar and the time of year is not good either its getting cold!
by looking at this crack does it appear to be a casting flaw?
or as old magnet states possibly froze at one time.
i guess it does not matter it there.
thanks guys, for the input!
i hope the pictures is viewable.
i am hoping to put together by this weekend
and i will report back.

The instructions on the "Barsleak" will tell you what the recommended mixture is but I wouldn't hesitate to double that for a tough application.
Not my usual recommendation for a fix either but in this case you are not likely to hut anything. May get you by until you can locate another clutch housing along with some decent weather to change it out.

That is a nasty crack that would surely be a candidate for your water leakage problem.
Looks like a freeze crack to me, nothing to do with casting flaw.

Not sure if you have herd of this but instead of jb weld try marinetex I have used it alot with my brother we fixed a D2 block and it worked, It is made in PA Catmatt's neck off the woods I think.

http://www.marinetex.com/

Bars Leaks is a product that is usually only good for blocking the few remaining good tubes in your radiator .. 😞

I'd be using "water glass", more commonly known as sodium silicate .. which is usually a satisfactory fix for sealing hairline cracks in heads, blocks, and any other castings that are in contact with hot coolant. The cooling system needs to be brought up to a high working temperature for best results.

I was thinking the same thing about Bar's Leak for plugging up the tubes in the radiator. I've been using Silver Seal or Alumaseal and have had no problems with it plugging anything other than the pesky leak I got it for. Many years ago the old timers used to use snoose (Copenhagen) or finely ground cornmeal. They cautioned me against using oatmeal. .it'll not only plug the leak but the whole cooling system as well😮