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RD-6 Bottom Rollers

RD-6 Bottom Rollers

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D8PETE
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I'm currently working on restoring an RD-6 which has several bad bottom and top rollers. I thought about putting new lifetime rollers on the bottom but can't seem to find an available roller that will fit and work. I've talked with the Berco rep and nothing easy is coming up right now. Does anyone know if there is a new available roller that will fit an RD-6? Does anyone have a full set of good used bottom and top rollers? My serial # is 2H4723 and has the earlier style top rollers.
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Wed, Aug 26, 2009 1:27 AM
u-joint
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it seems dave smith put a set of D5 rails and shoes on an RD-6. as far as
your lowers go i would guess you could drill your frames for a set of rollers
from a 5. i do not remember what the RD-6 rollers look like but will look in
the daylight. as far as the uppers? can you have a machine shop rebuild
them since there are only four? i have an upper roller from a 5 laying
around here somewhere, i will look at interchangability.
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Wed, Aug 26, 2009 11:55 AM
u-joint
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Reply to u-joint:
it seems dave smith put a set of D5 rails and shoes on an RD-6. as far as
your lowers go i would guess you could drill your frames for a set of rollers
from a 5. i do not remember what the RD-6 rollers look like but will look in
the daylight. as far as the uppers? can you have a machine shop rebuild
them since there are only four? i have an upper roller from a 5 laying
around here somewhere, i will look at interchangability.
ok! i could not stand it and grabbed the flashlight and went out to my 6's.
on the uppers it will depend on what type of mount you have. if your mounts
are on the inside like my 6's they look just like the 5's rollers. in the daylight i
will have to get a measurement of the shafts. my thirtyfive mounts in the
center of the roller its the only standard gauge i have. if yours mounts like
the thirtyfives you have a problem. you are going to have to rebuild what
you have.

the lower rollers look to me like a D5's will work. you will need to find a 5
and measure the space between the two channels to make sure a 5's
roller will slip in there. i know you would have to drill your track frames
as the bolt pattern on the 5 seems wider as i remember. a D6B or a 9U
roller would be worth looking into also.

this unless someone has a better idea?
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Wed, Aug 26, 2009 12:17 PM
D8PETE
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Reply to u-joint:
ok! i could not stand it and grabbed the flashlight and went out to my 6's.
on the uppers it will depend on what type of mount you have. if your mounts
are on the inside like my 6's they look just like the 5's rollers. in the daylight i
will have to get a measurement of the shafts. my thirtyfive mounts in the
center of the roller its the only standard gauge i have. if yours mounts like
the thirtyfives you have a problem. you are going to have to rebuild what
you have.

the lower rollers look to me like a D5's will work. you will need to find a 5
and measure the space between the two channels to make sure a 5's
roller will slip in there. i know you would have to drill your track frames
as the bolt pattern on the 5 seems wider as i remember. a D6B or a 9U
roller would be worth looking into also.

this unless someone has a better idea?
Thanks U joint for digging in the dark. Berco gave me a drawing for a newer d4 roller and all the dimensions are a match except for the d4 rail contact area is 1 inch narrower than an RD-6, so that rules out that particular roller. It seems they gave me dimensions for an older D6 rollers but the length will not allow the end caps to fit up between the track frame rails.
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Wed, Aug 26, 2009 6:53 PM
rob mitchell
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I Have Some Really Good Top Rollers For A Rd 7 With Stands, Don't Know If They Would Interchange?? Rob
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Wed, Aug 26, 2009 7:34 PM
D8PETE
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Thanks Bob - a road trip your way sounds good. Let me know what you have available. I'm still going to pursue brand new rollers for a bit. I could also check out the 3 high clearance tractors and the RD-8. Nice photos the other day!
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Wed, Aug 26, 2009 11:29 PM
Diesel 40 Don
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Reply to D8PETE:
Thanks Bob - a road trip your way sounds good. Let me know what you have available. I'm still going to pursue brand new rollers for a bit. I could also check out the 3 high clearance tractors and the RD-8. Nice photos the other day!
Several years ago I went through the same situation with my Diesel Forty. It had had the roller frames replaced with RD6 parts. The nearest I could find were D6B rollers but the bolt pattern was different. I took 5/8" rod and cut fillers for the old bolt holes, tacked them in place and drilled the proper holes. It is necessary to do that because the holes overlap slightly and without fillers the drill walks into the old holes. It takes careful fitting to get the spacing correct, I had the frames completely off and turned upside down. I don't think it would be possible to do it in place. Since the holes are different the old nut bars don't work and the roller spacing is different from the available nut bars so I cut new ones and tacked them back together with the proper spacing so I could poke them in the closed inner frame rail. The outside just takes nuts. I don't remember if the outer channel is tapered, if it is just use channel washers under the nuts, they are available at any reasonable hardware supplier. For the carrier rollers I slit the stanchions and pulled out the old roller. Then I welded tabs on either side of the slit, drilled it for a clamp bolt and slid the new rollers in. My machine doesn't see heavy use, mostly just field plowing, maybe 50 hours a year and the system has held up fine. It is a pleasure to be able to turn and sideslope without having the tracks jump off the way they used to. It was quite a project but I think worthwhile.
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Thu, Aug 27, 2009 12:09 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Diesel 40 Don:
Several years ago I went through the same situation with my Diesel Forty. It had had the roller frames replaced with RD6 parts. The nearest I could find were D6B rollers but the bolt pattern was different. I took 5/8" rod and cut fillers for the old bolt holes, tacked them in place and drilled the proper holes. It is necessary to do that because the holes overlap slightly and without fillers the drill walks into the old holes. It takes careful fitting to get the spacing correct, I had the frames completely off and turned upside down. I don't think it would be possible to do it in place. Since the holes are different the old nut bars don't work and the roller spacing is different from the available nut bars so I cut new ones and tacked them back together with the proper spacing so I could poke them in the closed inner frame rail. The outside just takes nuts. I don't remember if the outer channel is tapered, if it is just use channel washers under the nuts, they are available at any reasonable hardware supplier. For the carrier rollers I slit the stanchions and pulled out the old roller. Then I welded tabs on either side of the slit, drilled it for a clamp bolt and slid the new rollers in. My machine doesn't see heavy use, mostly just field plowing, maybe 50 hours a year and the system has held up fine. It is a pleasure to be able to turn and sideslope without having the tracks jump off the way they used to. It was quite a project but I think worthwhile.
Some roller info:
The D6B, D5, D6, 955,12A5793 up H, K, 20A1-2508 all use the same (lifetime bottom rollers)

The D6, 955C, E, 12A5793-7685, 977D, 20A1-2508 uses the same (grease type) top rollers.

The D5, D6, 955E, 12A7686 up, H, K, 951,B all use the same (lifetime) top rollers.

At one time you could get lifetime top rollers that fit the grease type stand
for the D6, 955, 12A5793-7685, 977D, 20A1-2508.

Might help a little by broadening the search😊 😊
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Thu, Aug 27, 2009 9:48 PM
D8PETE
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Some roller info:
The D6B, D5, D6, 955,12A5793 up H, K, 20A1-2508 all use the same (lifetime bottom rollers)

The D6, 955C, E, 12A5793-7685, 977D, 20A1-2508 uses the same (grease type) top rollers.

The D5, D6, 955E, 12A7686 up, H, K, 951,B all use the same (lifetime) top rollers.

At one time you could get lifetime top rollers that fit the grease type stand
for the D6, 955, 12A5793-7685, 977D, 20A1-2508.

Might help a little by broadening the search😊 😊
Diesel 40 Don and Old Magnet - My track frames are off the machine so reworking the holes or frames doesn't worry me. I guess I just need to keep researching more to find a roller to fit or if Cat Iron or someone else can locate me some original good ones I might go with those. I asked the Berco people if they had a catalog I could look through to find a close match and they said no. One guy told me over the phone to send my dimensions to him and he would try and get a close match.
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Thu, Aug 27, 2009 10:51 PM
u-joint
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Reply to D8PETE:
Diesel 40 Don and Old Magnet - My track frames are off the machine so reworking the holes or frames doesn't worry me. I guess I just need to keep researching more to find a roller to fit or if Cat Iron or someone else can locate me some original good ones I might go with those. I asked the Berco people if they had a catalog I could look through to find a close match and they said no. One guy told me over the phone to send my dimensions to him and he would try and get a close match.
if you have your track frames off and want to spend the money, now is the
time to install lifetime. the D4 rail is narrower than the 5. i would be surprised
if a D5 or a 6B rollers were different widths. i will find one tomorrow and
measure the widths of the frames. is your tractor a narrow or wide gauge?
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Fri, Aug 28, 2009 11:45 AM
Diesel 40 Don
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Reply to D8PETE:
Diesel 40 Don and Old Magnet - My track frames are off the machine so reworking the holes or frames doesn't worry me. I guess I just need to keep researching more to find a roller to fit or if Cat Iron or someone else can locate me some original good ones I might go with those. I asked the Berco people if they had a catalog I could look through to find a close match and they said no. One guy told me over the phone to send my dimensions to him and he would try and get a close match.
Pete,
If you have an aftermarket track shop in your area it would be a good idea to talk to them. I went to one local to me and explained what I needed, they were most helpful. Trying to do this long-distance is difficult at best. The shop here had a book of all available U/C parts from every manufacturer with dimensions and specs. There was one roller that had the right hole spacing but the roller was too wide for the frame. I don't remember what it was, trying to fit it would have meant far too much modification. I do recall having to do some cutting on the frame itself, I welded a strip along the side to bring back the strength. As you are discovering, hole spacing is only one consideration, all the dimensions have to be right. That is why it is best to sit down with the interchange book and a knowledgeable U/C man who can give pointers based on actual experience. This kind of work is hard enough without the surprises that can come from overlooking a small detail. Shops that do this sort of thing regularly will be able to steer you clear of such things. I hope this doesn't come across the wrong way, I am just trying to help you avoid some of the pitfalls. It is easy to get wound up in projects like this and wonder if it will ever end. Don't ask me how I know!!! As OM's chart shows, The rollers I got are lifetime lube which really cut down on my grease consumption. I apologize for the long-winded post, I hope you can get something useful out of it.
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Fri, Aug 28, 2009 12:16 PM
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