injector pump problems

Jake, take the valve cover off, you should be able to check both #1 valve clearences now if it's set right. Then roll the engine back and forth if you can't get feeler in. If you are one turn out on the crank the valves will be "on the rock" Exhaust closing Intake opening. Once you determine the correct position, back up the crank 60 degrees and come up slowly to the TDC mark.
Later Bob

Bob, Jaker 65 didn,t state the model and serial number of the tractor or engine which would help us too. His flywheel could be of a hole or two out if it,s one of the older engines and screw up the timing going by the marks.To check that he could take the #1 nozzle out and use a welding rod down the hole and when bringing it up on #1 the travel would stop at TDC on the flywheel and the valves both loose.If it,s an older engine you can,t get the housing out of time if it,s removed as the drive tang is offset and can only go on one way and will always be right on the timing of that part. Hope this helps him too Bob.Also Bob we could give him the correct lifter setting if we had the SN.

by welding rod probe down through the pre-com chamber I use a 1/8 in. brazing rod. The hole in the pre-com is less than 1/4 in....at least on the D4's and D6's. Would help if you would tell us what you are working on.

hey sorry guys, its a HT4 crawler loader SN is 7U19252

That would be a D315 engine in the 7U so the lifter setting is 1.736" with the piston TDC firing stroke for each lifter screw from the flat top of the housing down to the lifter screw bottom of the fork or "Y" and also if the complete housing is removed that would have the offset tang on it so it can,t go back on unless it,s right.Firing order is 1-3-4-2 and when you get it right on #1 then to get to #3 turn the flywheel CCW from the seat 1/2 turn to the flywheel number till you get them all.

hey all,
thanks so much for the information. i went down today and started working on it. before i knew it, a couple hours went by and had everything together. by 5pm the machine came alive and was roaring once again. now there tends to be another problem. seems like the fuel pressure is fluctuating. the RPM's will hold steady then drop down a bit, but then perk right back up. its not a bad problem right now. hardly noticeable but you can tell especially when you have it running on low RPM's. could this be a sign of the fuel transfer pump going?

To start with turn the fuel off at the tank and then remove the line from the tank to the pump and then remove that block it screws into but watch as a spring and plunger are inside it and it,s possible some crud has built up under the relief valve so clean it out good and stretch the spring a some and put it back together and see if it helps any.Sometimes this will correct a problem like you have.Don,t forget to turn the fuel back on after you put it back together and you may have to bleed the system out a little to get the pressure back up to normal.If that plunger is worn on where it seats you should possibly pick up a new one at Cat. The later plungers are made from metal with a rubber or neoprene seat on the flat of it.Also many times on the pump body where the plunger seats it wears some so draw filing it will bring it back to a new flat surface.

What do you have for fuel pressure??

the fuel pressure i have at start up says its in the green maybe a little off from bein fully in the green. when i turn the RPM's up the gauge will go all the way into the green. when the RPMs are at low idle, its will sit half way in the green. the fuel filters are brand new, i put them in 2 years ago, and havent put many hours on them.

I will try as SJ has said, and see if my problem lies in there. I have another fuel transfer pump i can pull parts from, just have to pick up some gasket material. thanks again for the help.