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Non Cat-371 detroit question

Non Cat-371 detroit question

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Steve A
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I have been working on the 371 in my dragline, I have an air leak on the suction side of the pump or a pump problem, I replaced the canister filters and gaskets last year and am confident there are good. The suction line from the tank to the first filter is new and the stainless steel check valve looked like new and checked out good. I am suspect of the OLD rubber packing's used under the compression nuts on the fuel lines, I will get 4 new for that, I cleaned the fuel lines and they look good. The big question is the pump. what are the chances the problem is there, should I get into that, is there clearance to remove the pump from the blower housing, looks tight, the back bolt looks inpossible. has anyone done this.

feedback is appreciated Thanks in advance
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Mon, Jun 8, 2009 3:39 AM
Oz22
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Hello Steve A
What exactly is the problem?
If you can start it and it runs rough there could be air leaking in through the suction side of the pump. If you are having trouble getting it to pick up fuel that is a different problem. Most detroits with gear drive pumps will not self bleed you will need to force fuel into the pump unless the tank is higher than the engine. It is possible to remove the fuel pump from the blower and have done so many times but some spanner bending may be required in your application, I have never worked on a dragline before.
Oz22
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Mon, Jun 8, 2009 7:46 PM
WyoCat
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Reply to Oz22:
Hello Steve A
What exactly is the problem?
If you can start it and it runs rough there could be air leaking in through the suction side of the pump. If you are having trouble getting it to pick up fuel that is a different problem. Most detroits with gear drive pumps will not self bleed you will need to force fuel into the pump unless the tank is higher than the engine. It is possible to remove the fuel pump from the blower and have done so many times but some spanner bending may be required in your application, I have never worked on a dragline before.
Oz22
Oz22 has a good point. To verify that there is not a leak, try to pressurize the tank and suction lines with out cranking the engine. If there is a place that is sucking air it will not be leaking fuel. If this test provews all items to be good then it might just be a prime problem. Lastly, there should be a restriction fitting on the return side. If this is blocked it could effect the fule output of the pump. Thjose pumps are small gear pumps and they were really resilient. I doubt that is your problem.
Chad Enyeart
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Mon, Jun 8, 2009 8:41 PM
ccjersey
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Reply to WyoCat:
Oz22 has a good point. To verify that there is not a leak, try to pressurize the tank and suction lines with out cranking the engine. If there is a place that is sucking air it will not be leaking fuel. If this test provews all items to be good then it might just be a prime problem. Lastly, there should be a restriction fitting on the return side. If this is blocked it could effect the fule output of the pump. Thjose pumps are small gear pumps and they were really resilient. I doubt that is your problem.
sometimes it's simpler than chasing the tiny air leak to put an electric pump between the tank and the gear pump.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, Jun 8, 2009 9:00 PM
Steve A
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Reply to ccjersey:
sometimes it's simpler than chasing the tiny air leak to put an electric pump between the tank and the gear pump.
a few years ago when I bought this machine the prior owner of 25+years told me you had to prime the fuel system if it sat for more than a month or 2, it was a simple process, just remove a plug from the top fuel filter and fill it. over the last 3 years it has been getting worse, now not running well if at all unless I gravity feed fuel to the pump. Keep in mind the tank is under the engine and the fuel filters at the top about 4 feet above fuel level. I considered a pressure test, I think I will, but first plan to get new seals as the old ones are in sad shape.
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Tue, Jun 9, 2009 7:03 AM
bunkclimber
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you might think about an electric fuel pump to 'lift' the fuel to the filter assembly,even a small one will do..tie it to the start sw(run position)worked for me on my 8v71..no issues now
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Tue, Jun 9, 2009 7:20 PM
Muffin
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Reply to bunkclimber:
you might think about an electric fuel pump to 'lift' the fuel to the filter assembly,even a small one will do..tie it to the start sw(run position)worked for me on my 8v71..no issues now
Have worked on a lot of the old Detriots and a bunch in old cranes. First off
its not really the best to put air to the tank because it sets below the motor and can open a new can of worms doing that. If the check valve between the filter and the tank is okay the problem is more than anything the pump is wore out ,when you said the other owner had to prime the pump. The best way to remove the pump is first try and find a old chevy manifold wrench(which is curved with 1/2 and 9/16 on each end). Yes they are a pain to get to back bolts(only three that hold it on anyway) Remember one thing about
changing the pump, there is a RH and a LH rotation . make sure you put the
same rotation pump back on. No timing is required . Just sets in a notch driven by the blower.Should cure your problem.But remember the check valve
has to be good because it holds the fuel to the pump. More than anything Father time as got to the Pump.. Hope this helps. Al
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Wed, Jun 10, 2009 10:46 PM
gemdozer
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Reply to Muffin:
Have worked on a lot of the old Detriots and a bunch in old cranes. First off
its not really the best to put air to the tank because it sets below the motor and can open a new can of worms doing that. If the check valve between the filter and the tank is okay the problem is more than anything the pump is wore out ,when you said the other owner had to prime the pump. The best way to remove the pump is first try and find a old chevy manifold wrench(which is curved with 1/2 and 9/16 on each end). Yes they are a pain to get to back bolts(only three that hold it on anyway) Remember one thing about
changing the pump, there is a RH and a LH rotation . make sure you put the
same rotation pump back on. No timing is required . Just sets in a notch driven by the blower.Should cure your problem.But remember the check valve
has to be good because it holds the fuel to the pump. More than anything Father time as got to the Pump.. Hope this helps. Al
I have a 371 in my galion and never have probleme and are you sure your fuel filter are full fuel and the line until the check valve.
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Thu, Jun 11, 2009 12:04 AM
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