d7f good or bad?

My "sometimes right" source shows the combined steering and brakes starting with the "G" series.

Also the 3306 engine coming in at sr. # 94N 5192 (1973)

I've heard the same info on the torque converter.....don't know about a late upgrade to the "F" model.

thanks for the reply old magnet, im not seeing any reason to tade up from 7e, they have the same hp, i dont know if the blades any faster,and i dont c any need for more rpms, unless u just want to burn more fuel.

Hi, Dancat.
To answer your first question, I found the one D7F that I operated from new for 3 months to be a better bulk pushing dozer than a trimming machine - unless it had the tree pusher bar still on it. The higher-speed 6-cyl. diesel was almost 1 1/2 tons lighter on the front than the D7E's 4-banger. So much so that, without the tree pusher fitted, it would back up a steeper slope than it would climb face first, NOT a good look for a dozer.

We fixed that up fairly well when we came to put re-inforcing plate on the blade for pushing scrapers. Instead of the usual 5/8" plate, I talked the owner into using 1" plate for the re-inforcing and chamfering the bottom edge of the plate just above the cutting edge to allow dirt and scraper push blocks to ride up over it. It was a different tractor after that.

It is true that the early D7F's suffered a bit with the old D7E transmission in them. I'm told the later ones came out with the D6C transmission in them and were a lot closer to being bullet-proof. The one that I was on was bought new in February, 1971, in Western Australia. Somebody here may be able to help you with possible series prefixes for that era. I don't have that information immediately to hand.

All round, I LIKED the jigger and found it to be a much more responsive machine than the D7E, almost to the point of being chalk and cheese. With the added weight on the blade, it was a good trimming tractor as well as a good bulk pusher and I found it to be very stable sideways. I side-cut some 1 1/4 : 1 batters with it, following them down from the top as they were cut. I don't remember ever having another standard gauge Cat on slopes as steep as I cut with that machine.

I can't say how it went as the hours mounted 'cos I 'moved on' to other pastures when it was 3 months old.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Deas Plant, i have never driven a 7f, i drove a 7g around a little but i didnt work it any, i sure liked the brakes and steering clutches being combined. the 7g is out of my price range, my favorite dozer has to be cable 17a, but a lot of people think they are to old to work and look at you funny when they see them, i like my 7e it will cut a lot harder dirt but the blade is slower than the cable 17a, and its a lot harder to turn the brakes take a lot more pressure, i wonder if its possible to put the 7g set up on the 7e or 7f? Thanks for all the help and info, this is a great site with a lot of nice and very knowledgable people.

It would be expensive Dan and would hinge on the new steering clutch covers fitting the E. They have boosted brakes in them. I think a new set of linings on your bands might bite harder with less peddal pressure and be the cheapest solution.
Later Bob

Thanks Bob, both brakes on the 7e are a lot harder to press/lock the track than on my 17a, the left is a lot harder than than the right, i ran it today for about 3 hrs and my leg is give out. Both the steering clutches are releaseing all the way, i havent tryed to adjust the brakes yet, dont have much room because it has winch on it, do u think it would help it? or maybe someonne just rode the left side more and wore the band down? i dont know anything about the wet brake set up first 7e i have had, ive adjusted 3t and 17a brakes but there real simple.

Yes Dan, adjust them. Take off small triangle covers, tighten 9/16 hex untill tight then back off 9 clicks(1 1/2 turns). The dozer should turn without much braking if you are pushing hard with the blade. Can you stop the tractor by pulling back both steering levers and not useing the brakes?
Later Bob

yes Bob it will stop when u pull the levers back, i have only had the dozer about 5 months, and probably put around 200 hrs on it. its the first powershift ive had, a couple of things ive noticed is when i work it real hard the converter temp will get about 3/4 the way over, it has never got in th white but it got close enough i stoped running it one day,ive changed the trans filters i havent cleaned the magnetic filter yet thow, any other ideas or is that normal for the converter temp? The other thing is when u press the decelerator u have to push the brakes hard to make it stop rolling is that normal? does it have an adjustment other than the bolt on the govener tower the stop bolt. also it has the extra hydralic levers for a ripper on ur right side yesterday they where so hot u couldnt touch them or the hydralic tank, i took the lide off to check the fluid today and it had a lot of air pressure in it fluid level wz fine, i ran it about 2 and half hours today and it didnt seeem to get as hot as the day before, any ideas? i will try to adjust brakes tommorow. thanks for all ur help, and for taken the time to read all this.

Your Torque seems to be overheating Dan, shouldn,t go 3/4 up the gauge in this weather. If you still have the old filter cut it open and see if it's got metal in it, check the magnetic screen too. Many things cause overheating, low oil flow is most common (worn pump or leaking seals). Need a pressure gauge (600 psi) in filter housing to check where the problem is. A easy check with no tools the next time you are useing it is to stall the torque (brakes on in 3rd gear, full throttle) Watch the gauge temp go up, kick it out of gear and see which way the gauge goes first (up or down?). If it's low oil flow, gauge will go up first then fall back as oil cools. Come on back with info and I will tell you what to do next. Yes it should roll on when you press decellerator. Now about hyd temp. Since it isn't always hot sounds like something is forcing Ripper control when you are working and running oil over relief valve. Check under floor for anything pushing lever or linkage off center.
Later Bob