Kerosene vs. Brake Linings

I'm having trouble imagining how the process you describe works to slip the clutches. Does the tractor run?

Usually pushing or pulling something in low gear while holding back on the steering clutch lever that's stuck and the other one too (as much as you can without hitting something) will do the best.

This process takes the torque of the engine, multiplys that through the low gear ratio of the transmission and applies it to both or just the stuck clutch when you pull the good side too.

Have you adjusted the clutches so you know you're compressing the clutch springs as much as possible?

Sorry, I should have included more information. No, it didn't run when we got it. We pulled it in gear with the clutch levers held back and popping the main clutch. We got the left side loose doing that, but it doesn't get a good enough grip with the old pads pulling it backwards or pushing it forward to put enough of a jolt into the right clutch.

When I started soaking it, I noticed that the stuck clutch was only opening about .050" - .100" which is only half as much as the other one. I'm new to Cats but I assumed that enough to let it release the pressure. I went ahead and adjusted them up to the specs in the operators manual.

you need to crank those adjusters way past the "Factory" specs to get the clutch pressure relieved enough to HOPE to break it loose. Once its loose and slipping good, then adjust it back to the Spec.

I was hoping someone would answer MO-22's question about Kerosene and brake linings. I quote, "Will the kerosene have any adverse reactions with the brake linings?" That is something I have always wondered about.

I would like to hear the thoughts of the group.

Thanks,

Richard

Kerosene leaves no residue. After it has done it's penetration, the heat of the lining will evaporate what is left of the kerosene. Expect no problems from a good soaking in kerosene. On my D4 7U, my steel plates were about half rusted through when I first bought my Cat. The blisters of rust had eliminated any chance of dissengaging by adjusting it any more. If you still have enough adjustment left to make it feel like disengagement, then you still have a chance of breaking it loose and saving yourself an expensive steering clutch repair. An idea would be since you have one clutch already free now, after adjusting out the stuck clutch, tie back it's handle and use it like that. Eventually after enough use, you should have that one broken loose too. If you are going to tie back a lever and use it that way, keep the clutch bearings well greased. Cats are FUN.

I've used it a bunch on my clutches and never noticed any problems, visual or using the tractor..Seems to burn off, and talking with many of my old time mentors they all have suggested using it... Too bad it is so expensive, I try to recover as much as possible, strain it, and use it again. I can usually get three good cleanings with one batch.

Kero won't hurt the linings one bit as it dries off. Keep the covers off and let it ventilate/evaporate away. I also use dirty diesel for the same purpose. .it just takes longer to evaporate so I only use that when I'm going to be running the critter right after I'm done cleaning.

I recover my Kero too after straining it I use an old electric fuel pump from a car with some rubber hose and a fuel filter to clean out all the small stuff. Takes about 2-3 minutes to go through 5 gallons.

to soak the D2 clutches for about a year and for other parts cleaning projects. It definitely helped to get the left side clutch apart!
In my fantasy I am still hoping the right side will come free! HA HA!
Anyways, I have an old furnace oil stove in the shop which I filter all the old fuels and burn for heat when I am not in there. When I am going to be in there, I switch over to "good" heating fuel the night before so that any odors are less noticable on the working days. The wife says the smells are bad but I don't notice it so I change the fuels to keep peace! 😊