977K wont steer

If it's a K model it will have the D333T engine.
Changed to L model with 3306 engine @ sr. # 11K3919 (1971)
-according to my sometimes right source-

That's all mechanical brakes so if it's serious pulsing something has gone wrong with brake pads/band or pinion/drum support bearings.

If it turned Left you have drive and everything from the drum down has to be good on the LH side.
I take it that the peddal pulsed back at you and the brake wouldn't stop the RH side.
Most likely the lining came off the band.
Try this and come on back.
Start machine, hold down both steering peddals and put machine in gear, For and then Rev. Let us know what happenes.
Later Bob

If it turned Left you have drive and everything from the drum down has to be good on the LH side.
I take it that the peddal pulsed back at you and the brake wouldn't stop the RH side.
Most likely the lining came off the band.
Try this and come on back.
Start machine, hold down both steering peddals and put machine in gear, For and then Rev. Let us know what happenes.
Later Bob

Bob; when I Hold petals down and move to forward and then to reverse I get no movement however the right side track transfers slack forward/rev.
OM is there a serial tag on the engine as I have been going off of the papers that were with it when I got it in 88 ?😕

Greyhead from what you just said, I think the bevelgear bearings are likely out of it causing the seals for the RH steering clutch release oil to be blown.
The takeing up of the track slack says the clutch is not released fully if at all. Likely the kicking back is the clutch pulling through the brake.
If you can get the PTO cover off the back of the steering clutch case check the bevelgear for side movement.
I think you will find some and be into a big job in the back end.
If you go in Go the distance or sell it now.
Later Bob

Bob; my oldest son just came in with the magnetic wire filter and stuck to it was half a bearing cage😮 😠 😠

Sorry about the bad news....
Yes there should be tags on the LH side of the engine.
Serial # 11kxxxx
3306 engine designation if it is would be 03Nxxxx

That's a big job to dismantle the rear cross shaft assembly on that model as there is no intermediate shaft/coupling that allows steering clutch assembly removal one side at a time.

greyhead - It appears you have had a bevel gear shaft bearing collapse .. or maybe a final drive pinion bearing. The bevel gear bearings are more likely to collapse.
The bevel gear bearings are taper roller bearings, and the final drive bearings are flat roller bearings .. so a quick check of the half bearing cage should determine whether it's a flat roller or taper roller.

To double check, pull off the rear housing PTO cover, and insert a crowbar into the bevel gear compartment, rest it against the bevel gear shaft and pry up and down. Any up or down movement should soon reveal the offending bearing. If there's no movement in the shaft, the final drive pinion bearing is gone.

To repair the bevel gear bearings is a major task. You need to remove the operators platform, and everything under it .. pedals, linkages, brackets, hoses, steering clutch control valve, steering brake covers, brake actuating assemblies.
You then have to unbolt each row of steering clutch retaining bolts, on each side of each clutch, and using the brake band as a sling, lift each steering clutch and brake band out. Hold the clutch drum and steering clutch assembly together by hand as they come out, to prevent the steering clutch assembly from falling out of the clutch drum.

The nuts on the steering clutch drive flanges, attached to the bevel gear shaft, then have to be unscrewed, and the steering clutch flanges pressed off (they are on a tapered spline).
Once the flanges are off, you then have to unbolt the cast bearing retainers .. unbolt the bevel gear (ring gear) .. and then slide the bevel gear shaft sideways out via the steering clutch compartment.

Keep the shims together, that come from under each bearing retainer. The thickness of these shims, sets the bearing preload, and the bevel gear alignment.
If you put back the same shims each side, that came out, when you install new bearings .. you won't have too much fiddling with bearing preload adjustment and bevel gear/pinion tooth alignment.

Remember to also replace the square section teflon-type piston rings that seal the steering clutch actuating pistons. These seals usually chop out when a bevel gear bearing fails .. and in any case, its a good idea to replace them while you're in that far.
Good luck, and let us know how much you learn about 977 innards, in a short time .. 😄

OZDozer; looking at the cage it looks to be a taper cage
Thanks guys (and my wife thought I spent alot on that D7-3t I'll show her😄 😄