Not to upstage my home town friend MikeMc with his HO D8, but I am starting to work toward fixing my DW10 pony problem.

You may remember that I toasted the pony on my DW10 a few weeks ago when trying to bleed out the main to bring it home from Woodland. I remembered, after it froze up, that the rear main seal leaks, so I was supposed to keep adding oil as I spun the main and worked on bleeding the injectors.

I left that pony attached to the DW10 at the Best Ranch, for now. I had a spare, which was attached to another tractor with a thrown rod, at home. This pony had been robbed of parts including magneto, carburetor and starter and left open to the weather since about 1960, as near as i can tell.

It was locked up tight, from rust, I assumed. Since it was near me, and the other is 350 miles away, I decided to take it apart and see what was what with it.

I was pleasantly surprised that, other than the intake passages, valves and some rust on the cam, it looks almost like it was overhauled not many hours ago. Somehow it was stopped with both intakes closed, and they must have sealed really well, given the appearance of the cylinders and pistons.

As I stripped parts and covers off, I was able to smoothly move the crank a half turn, until one or the other cam lobe came up against an intake valve.

With as good as this one looks, I would like to clean it up and swap necessary parts over from the other pony, if possible. The only thing I am not sure about is if the intake valve guides and those parts of the block are salvagable.

It would seem that that part of the block would be fairly fragile and removing the valves might end up breaking that part of the block. I have a very good machine shop here in town that did a bang up job on my D2 pony, so I think I will take it by there to see what they say.

Worst case, I will just exchange parts between this pony and the other to make the best engine I can out of the two.

Let me know your thoughts based on the pictures.

Thanks,

Pete.

I am just a back yard mechanic, but I think I would try pouring those intake ports full of your favorite pentrating oil, let her soak a couple of days, turn the engine over (not applying a whole lot of force) and see if you can get those valves to start moving. If they do, they probably will want to stick open, then take a block of wood and a hammer and light tap them back in, work them back and forth, if they free up, the way they look like they were sealing I don't think you would have any problems. Even if your valve seats don't seal perfectly, its on the intake valves so its not like you will be putting conbustion gases and contaminates into your crank case. Thats my two cents worth . There is whole lot of really good mechanics on here that I am sure will guide you in the right directions. Hope this helps.

Ken

As you said the camshaft looks a little crusty but otherwise it doesn't look all that bad. Certainly seems salvageable.....what's the cylinder ridge look like?
A critical check is to see what the end thrust and up and down movement of the flywheel/crankshaft end is. These engines are famous for knocking out the end thrust bearings which are retained by a pin.

Thanks Kenmcal and Old Magnet.

I was thinking about pouring a little of Ozdozer's citric acid into the intake ports and letting that sit for a while.

Old Magnet, the pin is still in the main bearing and i don't feel any slack on the crankshaft in any direction. I think the main bearings might be where they are supposed to be and still be in good shape.

I rebuilt the pony on my D2 about five years ago, and I don't think that pin stayed in for three hours of running. I think it has about a quarter inch of end play on the crank. It is down now because something happened to the main clutch, I think I broke the fiber disk, so when I take it apart to fix that, I can fix the pony right, again, too. I don't want to see any rods coming out the side someplace!

There is a just barely detectable ridge at the top of the stroke in the cylinder. So small, I had to run my fingernail up and down about five times to find it. I think this engine was in pretty good shape when it was abandoned because the main threw a rod.

From the comments you both posted it sound like it might be worth trying to free things up and see what happens as is. I was expecting to need to extract the intake valves, maybe find new valves and at least have those valves and seats cleaned up.

I think maybe now, if I can ge them freed up, I will just reassemble everything and run it a bit on the bench to see how things go. When I did my D2 I rigged up a little rack to hold the engine on the bench, hooked up a hose for cooling water and ran it for a few minutes on the bench to make sure everything was O. K. before I mounted it on the tractor.

The gaskets aren't that expensive, and the teardown and reassembly is pretty simple if I decide I need more machine work after a test run.

Thanks for looking and giving me your comments.

Pete.

I was able to extract the intake valves and guides from the block, get the keepers, springs and retainers off, and remove the valves from the guides.

New intake valves were only $28.68 each from Cat, so I decided not to reuse the old valves. The new valves fit nicely in the old guides, and the guides fit well in the block.

I priced a used cam from The Parts Depot near Fresno. At $150.00, I decided to try to reuse my cam with a little polish.

While I had the valves and guides out, I wire wheeled the intake port and valve chamber to get the worst of the rust and scale out. I figure now I'll have a performance pony since the intake will have all those turbulence inducing bumps inside the intake!

The next project is to vacuum out the mouse nest in the bottom of the oil pan. The crank, rods, pistons, and bearings all seem to be in good shape, without disassembling them for inspection. I think I will just see if I can get the shop vac with small extension in there to suck all the grass and stuff out. I can't get my hand in because there isn't enough room.

I emailed Olson's gaskets and they can provide all the gaskets I need at a reasonable price, so I will probably order those so that I can begin reassembly in a week or so.

Updates to follow as work progresses.