Did I get my 3306 out of time in my 627 scraper? I just put a new camshaft, pistons, and bearings in because it doesn't have brakes and a new guy overrevved it going down a hill. It starts and runs but smokes just a little bit of white and doesn't sound exactly right. If you give it acceleration, it will load up and die in 30 seconds or so of actual pull. I pulled the glow plug on #1and turned the engine over until I heard compression coming out of it and put the bolt in the flywheel and set the valves, but I didn't have the push rods in. I think I have it 360 degrees out. I know you can put it on TDC at #1 when the valves are at rest and it will be in time, but how do I get there if the valves aren't already set? I want to try it again tomorrow, the Cowboys are playing tonight though. It has the scroll type pump and the serial # is 68M300. Thanks...

???????How do you adjust valves without having the push rods in place.
Correct procedure (with push rods)
Set #1 timing per bolt method.
Adjust valve clearance on intake valves for cyl. 1,2 and 4.
Adjust valve clearance on exhaust valves for cyl. 1,3 and 5.
Rotate engine crankshaft 360 deg. normal rotation so #6 is at TC on compression.
Adjust valve clearance on intake valves for cyl. 3,5 and 6.
Adjust valve clearance on exhaust valves for cyl. 2, 4 and 6.

Valve clearance setting (engine stopped)
Exh....0.026 in.
Int.....0.015 in.

Check range (engine stopped)
Exh.....0.022 in. to 0.028 in.
Int..... 0.012 in. to 0.018 in.

If you're operating a 627 without brakes, you're asking for a lot of trouble, IMO .. and not just on the safety front.
Cat have many and repeated warnings about overrevving by excessive downhill speed, in any of their equipment.

Overrevving makes valves hit pistons .. bends pushrods .. bends valves .. breaks valve springs .. and can make pistons hit the head .. creating piston and ring damage .. and even fracture the crankshaft ..

IMO, you've got a seriously damaged engine .. not just one out of time .. and I think you've got your priorities all wrong.
If you spent some time repairing the brakes to a satisfactory working condition, you wouldn't be having to fix the engine now ..
Using an engine as a brake, instead of the braking system, is a guarantee you won't be making any money out of any project you undertake ..

In addition, all it takes is one accident created by operating with no brakes, and with maybe a resultant fatality .. and you'll have plenty more to worry about, than a sick 3306 ..

You can check timming with both flywheel pin & injection pump pins. Are you sure you have the pump in time? When both pump & flywheel pins fall in #1 is tdc if you have pump timed correctly.

Don, if you have an old PC engine with a scroll pump it needs to be timed with a fixture, there are no timing marks for the pump just the crank and cam. If you have a pump with a big plate on the side it's a sleeve metering pump and can be pin timed with a new 1/4" drill bit, use shank end.
Take off valve cover and roll engine over and watch for #6 valves to be "on the rock" Exhaust closing and Intake opening. The bolt should go into the flywheel at this point. Get a light and mirror if needed and look into bolt hole and watch as someone rolls the engine back and forth slightly to find bolt hole. Once you find bolt hole back up engine 1/4 turn and then come up to bolt hole and lock flywheel. At this point you need to take off scroll pump and get fixture to time the drive or make sure the shavk of the 1/4"drill bit will go into the slott of the camshaft of the Sleeve metering pump. The timing pin hole on sleeve metering pump is under a plug(9/16 hex) in the cover with the insulated pin sticking out of it.
If you ever take the front gear train apart the pump will move and get out of time even if you don't move the crank or cam.
Hope you haven't melted any pistons.
Later Bob

I didn't explain how I did it very well. Try this: I didn't have the push rods in when I rolled the engine over to find TDC, a temporary brain cramp. I put the bolt in the flywheel and adjusted them like you say Old Magnet.

Bob, I've timed the sleeve metering pump type before, but not the scroll type. I had the pump rebuilt when I started this project, and I double checked with that shop to see if I could get it back on wrong. It only goes back on one way because of the slotted drive. I also checked the bearings on the timing idler gears because I had a grader that was out of time from that. I didn't have the front plate off when I adjusted the valves.

Oz, it doesn't have brakes but I didn't say you couldn't stop it. We always drag or drop the pan.

I think I should have just waited to check the camshaft position this AM.

Thanks for the advice

Okay Don, the pump is still timed to the crank okay but you may have the cam timed to the wrong revolution of the crank. That would put your pump timing at #6 when it should be at #1.
Your engine will run that way but not under load.
Later Bob

Take off the front cover, take out glowplugs and pushrods.
Turn the engine over untill cam and crank marks are in alignment.
Take off cam gear.
Turn the crank one turn exactly, reinstall the cam gear with marks lined up.
Put engine back together and try it.
Later Bob

Got it, thanks. Got ahead of myself.

We must have bumped the injector pump idler when we had it off replacing the cam. The cam was in time with the crank, but we were off on the pump timing. I went to the dealer and got the timing plate, and we were off a couple of gears.

Thanks