Good Evening, 
I am working on a D330c that's in a 951B Traxcavator.  The engine has spun a rod bearing so I am working on getting the crankshaft out but have ran into a roadblock removing the crankshaft pulley.  The book says to to use tooling that resembles a hydraulic tool.  I have attached pictures below of what I am trying with no luck.  Is the tiooling referenced in the book absolutely necessary of what are some other ways these have been removed in the past?
Thank You
 

I have done this once on a D8 engine about 20 years ago. I had a lot pressure on it with a similar puller to the one in your photo. It would not come off. I put a cutting torch on a pole because I was not brave enough to do it hand held. I heated it up still would not come off. I took a break to consider my options. About 1/2 hour after I heated it, it came off with a bang. It literally flew through the air. As it cooled it decided it was time to release.

The Cat manuals are a good starting point but they are under the assumption that everything is relatively new and not forty or more years old.
When heating the pulley always add head to the outer section as well. I have seen these crack or even explode when the center is heated but not the outside. An ex fitter at work broke his foot when he heated a large pump impeller incorrectly and it exploded and part of it landed on his foot.

Sometimes if you heat the pulley and put tension on the puller and hit the center bolt squarely with a 4lb hammer the shock will cause the pulley to come off.
Also how much heat did you put into it? A heat gun for temperature monitoring is the best as you can go up to around 100 degrees Celsius or 212 degrees Fahrenheit without damaging anything as long as you heat it evenly. I've seen a lot of people think they are heating it up but only really warmed it up. Doesn't take much heat to burn the paint like you have in the pictures.

as phil says be careful with heat. done wrong you can make it lock on worse.

penetrating oil and time is your best friend. you can use a standard hydraulic bearing puller. just remember be gentle apply small amount of force in small bites some time they need time and a few love taps with a dead blow hammer to break free. its real easy to over do something and break it. if it wont come walk away leave the puller on it and go have lunch.

if you using a gas axe get a proper heating barrel (rosebud) for it not welding tips they are too concentrated. and yes a non contact thermometer is a very good idea. and keep the torch moving so you heat evenly.

Pulling pressure heat and time. Just as Phil has explained it. I believe this is one of Cat's tapered shafts by looking at your pictures from parts book. So penetrating oil is not of much help. Heat it give your pulling set up a check to make sure it is tight, and some tapes,...............................and wait. If it cools and is not loose, do it all again a little bit hotter. Also remember if the shaft has heated very much in the first round, it has expanded as well, so wait for it to cool before the second attempt.

I have had luck by waiting for the heat to work. Just walk away. In this case it can not fall off as the center bolt will only let it move a bit. So unless you way over heat it as in Phils example with the shattering of the casting nothing to worry about.