Hello everyone,

I know the topic of direct start has been the subject of many posts within the forum. I have searched and read through several, only to end up with a couple questions and an potential third idea….

Based on what I have read and the information of those far more knowledgeable than myself, it seems there are currently two primary direct start options.

The “easiest” being a retro-fit which eliminates the pony and in it’s place mounts a starter, gear and housing which integrates with the diesel, just as the original pony did/does. Push button starting, but still using the pinion mechanism. 

The second option would be drilling and tapping the bellhousing with a template, to use an electric starter of slightly different dimensions than original. 

Potential third idea….I have a 1956 direct start 5U with a complete motor. Could I…..

Remove the starter and weld/fab a drill figure “jig”based on the starter bolt and nose cone holes, that would then bolt to and index off fixed mounting locations on the block and bellhousing….

Take said jig, bolt it to the same fixed points on my 1951 5U, and using the jig, perfectly add the holes in the OEM locations. Finally, have my OEM 1956 starter duplicated and install with appropriate wiring, batteries and switch. (A starter shop in the area says they can build a duplicate and confirming that would be the first step)

The jig would have bushed holes, with changeable sleeve inserts for pilot holes and finished sizes before tapping. Additionally, a large guide sleeve for the nose cone hole. 

Also, 

I would love to hear long term reviews from those using methods one and two. Additionally, finished costs. 

Thanks Much, 
Breadler 

I drilled for electric starter on a d4 7u. I made a jig out of aluminum angle, bolted it on through bell housing side bolts. Jig had center pilot hole for hole saw pilot, and one hole for one nose cone hole. I drilled these two pilot holes first, I removed jig, drilled coring hole, then I put the nose cone in the hole, which was temporarily removed from starter. I bought bushings from local ace hardware which fit perfectly in nose cone mounting bolt holes. They had these bushings with a few different sizes of center hole. I matched drill bits sizes to the few different sizes of center hole in bushings. I drilled progressively large holes for first bolt hole, tapped first hole with correct size tap. Then bolted nose cone on with one bolt, used the same bushings in other bolt holes and drilled them progressively also. This way you are using nose cone for a perfect drilling template. It worked very well. I have limited machining experience. I did this work with a drill press, a metal cutting chop saw, and a cheap inline inline electric drill from harbor freight.

Neil, mine didn't seem perfectly flat on bell housing. It wes not terribly rough though. I purchased d4 and pony had no compression, so I drilled it on site. I'm now working on rebuilding steering clutches. If I had to it again I think I should have went with 24v starter. I have not started it many times yet, but I used a tiny bit of starting fluid each time because batteries don't last long at all. Two brand new 4d batteries ,interstate brand.

If you copy the original factory installation you will be limited to the original inertia type drive starter which uses a smaller diameter drive than what is used in conversion starters.

I did use 12v. I should have known better I read in other posts folks advise to go with 24v.. I don't know any history of this D4. The guy I bought it from didn't know any history of this machine. I doubt engine is in great condition. It does seem to run well, but I have only driven it on and off delivery truck.

My area, northern California is not to cold, I will use minimal starting fluid. When time comes to replace my current 12v batteries, I would consider replacing starter with 24v system.

try heavier leads first and make them equal length and have use the positive on one battery and the negative on the other so it see one big battery not 2. drill and tap the intake manifold for a heater plug