Thanks for the good description of your problem.
You have what happens to stand by generators when they are not ran on a load.
If you can come up with a load bank you might try running it with a big load for a while and get the motor hot.
Otherwise pull the head and have it cleaned out and the valves checked.
The best suggestion I can come up with.
Good luck
Bob
Thank you for the reply. If you had to estimate how much of a load was necessary to achieve that - what would you say? 15kw? more? It's a 30kw unit. We've been running the whole house, and well pump when it's on. Things such as hot water heater, stove, microwave, obviously lights/fans/tv/wifi, dryer (last year) even, although probably not all at one time, but quite a little overlap.
I do remember years ago being able to power the central AC unit and the air compressor, but I tried to kick on the compressor last year and about stalled the generator.
We'd had a lot of overheating issues until the radiator came off and got cleaned out including snaking each one of the individual cooling tubes in the radiator (If I posted pictures of what the top of the radiator looked like after the top tank was off, you would not believe me it cooled at all), so now it runs about 170-180 on the water temp, and I've watched the tempt climb, thermostat open, and then it drop back down.
Should I just run it as normal for 8hr or something and see if it clears up? It sure does make a mess
When the tractors start doing the slobbering thing, the recommendation is always put a big load on it for 4 hours minimum, longer is better. So in this case I would say 8 or 10 would be good. I would say keep adding load until in wants to lug down then back off just a little. As bluox put it a big load. If it has a gauge for electric out put get close to the 30kw. 😉 But not knowing much about generators, I don't know how rating and what it is safe to put out really is. But running a light load is what caused your current situation.
Your comment on how little oil it is using points back to carbon and unburned fuel is what is coming out the stack not oil.
that engine will be much happier at 190-195. there information out there about changing the thermostat to a 190 for the factory one.
Re: Higher temp thermostat - I also saw mentions of that here. I have not saw a part # for an alternative one in my parts book, but I'm willing to try that if anyone has any details or cross over model to try that from. I've not taken mine out and put in the pan with water/thermometer, but I've watched the gauge in the cluster get right up to about 180 before it opens and then seems to close around 165-168 and start climbing back up again when I've ran it and watched it close.
On the fuel system: I installed new in package OEM cat nozzles (capsule), part #8n5986. Which is what was on the ones that came out. The injector bodies, and the lines were put in an ultrasonic cleaner. I then installed the new nozzles with new o-rings at the bottom of the nut that locks the injector body into the precombustion chamber, and also the one that goes under the injector line nut/top of the injector body. Those are 6f1069 and 5b3718 but got a superceded part # for each I don't recall off the top of my head what they were but I could go back and look if that's relevant. I haven't had any visible leaks there since reinstalling everything although if it slobbers a few more hours of running it may be hard to tell again... 😊
I did not touch the injection pump itself other than taking the injector lines themselves off while replaces the nozzles/removing the injector bodies.
A new fuel filter was installed before running with the new nozzles.
I feel fairly confident that the new nozzles, bodies, and lines are clean and clear unless there was trash between the fuel filter housing and them that just immediately clogged them back up, which I guess is a possibility.
No oil cooler on it.
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The black parts you call injectors are nozzle bodies.
The injector cleaner suggestion is for the injection pumps which are in pump housing as they may be sticky.
Your regulator is not behaving correctly so you might check it out.
When was the last time you changed oil and what weight oil are you using?
Running the motor hotter would run the oil hotter making it thinner .
Bob
I not smart enough to tell you about them but from the pics you must have a late D311 as it's got the scroll style injection pump. I do believe they work with oil pressure or need oil presser to start. if it not seeing the right oil presser it may not be giving full fuel? witch would make you down on power. just guessing hear.
I not smart enough to tell you about them but from the pics you must have a late D311 as it's got the scroll style injection pump. I do believe they work with oil pressure or need oil presser to start. if it not seeing the right oil presser it may not be giving full fuel? witch would make you down on power. just guessing hear.