Hello all and Happy Sunday. I have good news to report, I've managed to get my Ten running. In a previous thread, SoCalCatMan suggested I try to pull start it, and I thought about it but I just don't have the space to do it. Instead I opted to build an electric starter to help crank it over faster and more continuously.  I used a 3hp 240v motor to belt drive a jackshaft, which reduced the shaft speed to about 800 rpm. The speed is a little faster than I wanted, but I used the parts I had laying around. On the end of the jackshaft (driven shaft) I built a sliding coupler with a 1/4" drive key between them to transfer the rotational force but allow the coupler to slide freely. I used an old style rubber disc flex joint to drive a keyed coupler that replaced the crank handle. I'll admit, the whole concept seemed a little sketchy but it's only crazy if it doesn't work. I poured motor honey on top of each piston and primed each hole with a little gas and cranked it. It probably 5 minutes of cranking before it popped and came to life. Anyway, it runs and moves forward and reverse under it's own power, but I don't have any steering. At first, I had a little action on the right stick but but nothing on the left, after I ran it a bit I had nothing. I don't know anything about whether or not the steering worked when it last ran or not, is the steering mechanism something that could deteriorate over time?  I removed the cover plate and found the adjusters and could look down into the case a bit but don't really know what I'm doing beyond that. Does the steering system use clutches or brakes? Any suggestions on what to look for or adjust? I need to find a parts manual for this machine so I can see how they're put together. Usually if I can see the parts breakdown, I can figure out how they work. Thanks for reading and for your help. 

Nice work on the starting contraption. Too steer pull the “stick” or steering clutch lever in all the way then apply pressure on brake pedal right or left with right or left steering clutch lever pulled  
 

Thanks Skinner, I really appreciate the insight. The starter was a lot of work but my uncle has an old Case CC that I think it will be useful on as well. I'll try your suggestion in the next couple of days and report back. Hopefully the machine is fine and it's only my lack of knowing how to drive it that's the problem. I guess I need an operator's manual as well as a parts manual. I'm familiar with a little newer equipment that is steered by the levers only.

Please remember - those levers operate multiple disc clutch packs. The Brake Band around the drum forces the clutch discs to slip when the lever releaves the spring tension on the clutch packs.
IN an EMERGENCY SITUATION - one can PULL BOTH FRICTION LEVERS AND STAND ON THE BRAKES, THIS WILL STOP THE MACINE (IF) all is operational.
Nice to remember in the event the Master Clutch Fails!

As previously mentioned, good space around the machine and operator awareness are required. Tailseats are way worse than "top seats" for THROWING the operator.
CTS

Thanks Neil, that's very valuable insight. This is my first Cat and definitely the the oldest machine I've ever run, the operation of these machines is more complex than I thought. I appreciate the way you laid that out, I'll probably print that out and keep it next to the operators seat until I get comfortable with the procedures.

Thanks CT. I want to make sure I'm doing it right and not causing undue damage to the machine. Like I said before, I understand mechanics fairly well and if I can see how the parts go together, I can see in my mind how they're supposed to work. I can see where the tail seat Cats would be dangerous to operate in rough conditions and where wide open spaces are ideal for learning the ropes. Yesterday when I got it started and wanted to see if it would move, I walked it out of the garage in a straight line and back in straight line with my hand hovering over the kill switch the whole time in case something went wrong.

2 Fingers if you are not shutting the engine down for emergency stopping, don’t use the Killswitch always shut the gas to the carburetor. This way the carburetor will run empty, killing the engine, and you will have less problems with the carburetor. Skinner

That makes sense Skinner, especially on an intermittent use or show tractor. Do you have any trouble getting it to start again after evacuating the carb or will the gravity feed into the carb and fuel in primer cups get it going. With my electric starter I'm not worried about how long I crank it, but I hope to get it to where it will start easily and consistently with the hand crank.