Well, after pulling having the cover crack fixed and pulling the cover back off, finally the bikini is on it chassis...

I ended up using 3/8 inch diameter O-Ring stock and place 1/16" cork/neoprene gasket between the cover and chassis interface where no is called for. I already had most of it cut already and did not want a repeat performance of the break...

The front cover I cut can be removed with the flywheel on. I will use a silicone sealant to keep the water out instead of a gasket.

Brakes and steering clutch controls are adjusted. At least for now until tweek after operation.

The main clutch may prove to be a bit of a challenge. The linkage was somewhat of a pain. The levers, (3B1014) did not fall properly underneath the locks, (5B6437) in front of the gear box. Thank goodness for the gear box fill hole-it makes all that pretty visible once you have had the cover off and see everything underneath. The three locks sit about 90% above the three levers. I have adjusted out the run on the lever assembly, (4B6432), as far back as it will go. This enables the levers to pull toward the back of the machine under the locks as far as possible. It seems if I adjust the main clutch it will allow a little more travel in the linkage...not sure yet. The main never did not have a good "snap" so hopefully I will know it when I feel it.

I also connected the pinion shaft and the sleeve on the starting clutch. Threads seemed to hold fine. Used loctite as Old Magnet suggested. Seemed to be a good idea. If it gives me any problems, I can pull the front of the bikini top off and fix it while leaving the bottoms on:D

Anyway, just a quick update. Seeing a little more daylight each time I can work on it.

Thanks-
bernie

Looks good Bernie. You're gettin' 'er done. About the interlocks, I'm wondering if that gasket under the lid could be holding the lid itself up high enough to keep the locks from engaging properly? Any wear on those locks or cams from over the years plus the gasket could be the culprit.

Paul-
That was an issue with graphite seal. The 7/16 inch was too dense and started out too big. From the filler hole I can see right down into the gearbox, and I do not think clearance is an issue. Rather travel distance. I had decided to remove it prior to the cover break, just did not get it unfastened in time.

I think the 3/8" Oring is OK. The gasket I have under the remaining flanges is in place only to bridge flanges further out. The ring seems to have compressed OK.

As the main handle is pulled back, the levers rotate downward under the locks. Prior to adjusting the lever assembly bracket allowing the clutch lever full travel back, the levers were at about 4:30...the need to be at 6:00, if that makes sense. After making the adjustments they now seat under the locks pretty far back. It only lacks about 1/16". I may actually try to measure.

I think when I ajust the main clutch it will allow the the clutch to move further forward and allow a little more travel by the assembly. I think once adjusted, if I understand it..., I will likely be lengthening the lever assembly, if any of that makes sense. I had the main out if you remember replacing the pilot bearing and races. I would guess the removal wiggled things around.

I will see what unfolds this week.

Thanks for the look-see,
bernie

Bernie: Progress looks great.Wish I had a little more time to work on my 5T. Cutting the case looks like the way to go. I am planning a tare down and some upgrades next spring. I maybe looking into the cut case and have some questions for you. Keep up the good work.

Ken

Bernie, that's just magic, the amount of access available to the clutch, after you split that cover. Excellent work, thanks for the update and pics.