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An "is it worth it" question - D6B (not currently running) for $2500 in NY
An "is it worth it" question - D6B (not currently running) for $2500 in NY
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5 months 2 weeks ago #257369
by neil
Hi Craig, do you happen to have the part # for the top-end gasket set for the D6B 44A10413? I'm going to pull the head off and light some diesel in the stuck cylinders to see if I can free it. Owner said I can dink around with it while it's still on the property
Cheers,
Neil
Pittsford, NY
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5 months 2 weeks ago - 5 months 2 weeks ago #257375
by seiscat
Hi Neil, I sent a reply on PM, I don't know what happen to it. I purchased aftermarket gasket kits etc. from I.P.D. They were high quality and made in U.S.A.! The kit you need is one of the 2 listed. I also included other parts you might need:
1 4M6018 GASKET KIT
1 4M6016 GASKET KIT
6 7M8695 PISTON ASSEMBLY
6 4M8165 RING GROUP
Craig
Last edit: 5 months 2 weeks ago by
seiscat.
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5 months 2 weeks ago #257387
by neil
Thanks very much Craig. I did get your PM too thanks. I forgot to come back and delete this post - apologies! We tipped a gallon of atf-diesel down the chimney today in case it helps - doubtful but you never know. The owner told us he drained a few gallons of "water" out of the oil pan but it wasn't clear if that was rainwater or coolant. We checked the radiator today and couldn't make any any coolant at all in it, I'm wondering if, given that someone had just "rebuilt" the engine for him, maybe they left out a gasket or something and the coolant drained into the sump. Perhaps what's stuck is the crank and cam drivetrain and not the piston rings. I'm planning to pull the cylinder head and take a look. If it looks clean then I guess the problem's in the bottom end. I can see that I would need to drop the belly pan and it wouldn't have to be put back on in a hurry. Can the oil pan be dropped with the engine in situ?. Would you know if the front cover can be pulled off without removing the radiator? It would be easy to undo the bolt in the front of the crank because the engine is stuck solid : ) Tractor has other problems - severe wear in the track frame pivot bushings around the rear axles causing quite a lot of toe-out to the point where the track pads at the idlers are rubbing up against the blade push arms. Any thoughts on replacing those bushings?
Cheers,
Neil
Pittsford, NY
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5 months 1 week ago - 5 months 1 week ago #257392
by seiscat
Hi Neil,
As always pictures would help. If the roller frames are that far out of alignment ("toed-out") the diagonal brace bushings have probably worn the dead-axle to the point that it also needs to be replaced. That also means there is extreme wear/damage to the outer bushing/roller frame. The equalizer bar/spring pads will also need to be replaced.
I had a high-hour D6D that had a alignment problem not nearly as bad as you describe. I had to replace both dead-axles which required disassembly of the final drives. The final drives needed new bearings and some of the gears. The equalizer bar pads were compressed at an angle and needed replacing along with the worn equalizer bar . I was replacing the entire U/C at the time. I had a Caterpillar press/puller and I did the work myself and it was still terribly expensive.
From what you describe, that D6B will need all that + the engine needs who knows what to run. Unless the U/C and the rest of that D6B is really great I really don't think it's worth it.
Craig
Last edit: 5 months 1 week ago by
seiscat.
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5 months 1 week ago #257407
by neil
I think I agree Craig - it might be fun to get the engine running in order to load it on to the lowboy to send it to China (less the hydraulic control I guess since that's probably more use in that form vs. an electric car). Jeff Huff might be interested in parking it on his property for parts but he's more into rentals and rentable attachments
Cheers,
Neil
Pittsford, NY
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3 months 3 weeks ago #258374
by neil
The owner has sold the property and closing is in five weeks. Buddy and I went out there yesterday to see if we could turn it over with no success. It doesn't move even a smidge so I suspect the crank is seized when the crankcase flooded with water. Anyhoo, I'm guessing it will scrap. Seems like it would be worth saving the hydraulic control since parts are NLA but I don't know if I can get that salvaged before closing
Cheers,
Neil
Pittsford, NY
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An "is it worth it" question - D6B (not currently running) for $2500 in NY
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