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Vintage D6 with Seized Engine, Worth Messing With?

Vintage D6 with Seized Engine, Worth Messing With?

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bulletpruf
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There's an affordable D6 nearby but the engine is seized, allegedly from getting water in the cylinders (someone left it parked without a cover on the exhaust).

Would anyone know what year (roughly) and series this one would be?  And what engine?  And I'd also be interested to hear how difficult and how expensive it would be to overhaul the engine myself.  I have built lots of engines and transmissions but no heavy equipment.

Thanks!

Scott  
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Fri, Mar 1, 2024 8:03 PM
neil
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I want to say D6B with a D330 late fifties/early sixties but I don't know my D6s very well. The "D6B" decal on the side is a bit of a give-away though.. : )
If it's like the one down the road from me, there is a decompressor lever sticking out the back of the cylinder head/rocker cover that could be released in order to try to bar the engine over. That's what we're going to try on the local tractor
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Fri, Mar 1, 2024 8:10 PM
Deas Plant.
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Hi, bulletpruf.
That is a D6B wide gauge dozer, about 1958 to 1964 or so - I don't have any serial # reference books and you haven' given a serial #. Engines are pretty easy to work on and relatively simple.- NO computers or electronics. A pretty reliable machine so long as you don't want them to be a D9.

You MAY have a track adjuster issue on the left side. Then again, you may not. It may just need adjusting. Going by the look of that right track in your last photo, there may be some pin and bushing wear.

The tree spear and canopy are nice touches.

Just my 0.02.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Fri, Mar 1, 2024 8:18 PM
seiscat
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Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, bulletpruf.
That is a D6B wide gauge dozer, about 1958 to 1964 or so - I don't have any serial # reference books and you haven' given a serial #. Engines are pretty easy to work on and relatively simple.- NO computers or electronics. A pretty reliable machine so long as you don't want them to be a D9.

You MAY have a track adjuster issue on the left side. Then again, you may not. It may just need adjusting. Going by the look of that right track in your last photo, there may be some pin and bushing wear.

The tree spear and canopy are nice touches.

Just my 0.02.
Hi Scott,
The D6B was produced from 1959-1967. That tractor is the wide gauge version so the S/N would have a prefix of 44A. The S/N is located as shown below.
Craig
 [attachment=75501]IMG_20240219_0043.jpg[/attachment]
 
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Fri, Mar 1, 2024 8:51 PM
bluox
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Reply to seiscat:
Hi Scott,
The D6B was produced from 1959-1967. That tractor is the wide gauge version so the S/N would have a prefix of 44A. The S/N is located as shown below.
Craig
 [attachment=75501]IMG_20240219_0043.jpg[/attachment]
 
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You might want to check the oil pan and see how much water is in it.
If it has much the crank will have to be pulled and checked and a crank could be expensive.
The engine weighs around 2800 lbs.
As for parts I have not bought any for that motor lately but its like other parts they are going to be very pricey.
The last C-15 we swapped was 65K exchange .
The under carriage on that tractor are way past junk .
Do a little more investigating before you buy.
Good luck
Bob













































]
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Sat, Mar 2, 2024 1:25 AM
trainzkid88
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Reply to bluox:
You might want to check the oil pan and see how much water is in it.
If it has much the crank will have to be pulled and checked and a crank could be expensive.
The engine weighs around 2800 lbs.
As for parts I have not bought any for that motor lately but its like other parts they are going to be very pricey.
The last C-15 we swapped was 65K exchange .
The under carriage on that tractor are way past junk .
Do a little more investigating before you buy.
Good luck
Bob













































]
if its only one or two cylinders exposed to water it might not be that difficult at all. you would be surprised what a good soak with diesel or kerosene will do especially when a bit of persuasion from a block of wood placed on the piston and a club hammer. you have to remove the head first to get access. we have freed up a couple of engines using that method.

and provided the sump isnt full of water it may just be new bearings liners rings and gaskets, give it a valve lap, free up the fuel rack and pumps and your running again.

yes the track gear could be worn out but if your only wanting a display machine and it only has to move itself around then that can last a long time.

many of the parts should still be available if you have a parts book you can get prices/availabilty via www.parts.cat.com also a phone call to your nearest dealer can be worthwhile too.

"i reject your reality and substitute my own" - adam savage. i suspect my final words maybe "well shit, that didnt work"

instead of perfection some times we just have to accept practicality

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Mon, Mar 4, 2024 8:37 AM
bulletpruf
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Reply to trainzkid88:
if its only one or two cylinders exposed to water it might not be that difficult at all. you would be surprised what a good soak with diesel or kerosene will do especially when a bit of persuasion from a block of wood placed on the piston and a club hammer. you have to remove the head first to get access. we have freed up a couple of engines using that method.

and provided the sump isnt full of water it may just be new bearings liners rings and gaskets, give it a valve lap, free up the fuel rack and pumps and your running again.

yes the track gear could be worn out but if your only wanting a display machine and it only has to move itself around then that can last a long time.

many of the parts should still be available if you have a parts book you can get prices/availabilty via www.parts.cat.com also a phone call to your nearest dealer can be worthwhile too.
Thanks for all the input. I have had luck with freeing up stuck engines in the past; some gas, some diesel. I prefer to soak with Kroil, followed by Marvel Mystery Oil. If that doesn't work, removing the cylinder head and tapping and heating the piston has worked every time except once -- when I was stationed in Italy, a vintage Alfa Romeo 4 cylinder stubbornly resisted all my attempts to get it un-stuck.

Scott
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Mon, Mar 4, 2024 9:40 AM
Deas Plant.
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Reply to bulletpruf:
Thanks for all the input. I have had luck with freeing up stuck engines in the past; some gas, some diesel. I prefer to soak with Kroil, followed by Marvel Mystery Oil. If that doesn't work, removing the cylinder head and tapping and heating the piston has worked every time except once -- when I was stationed in Italy, a vintage Alfa Romeo 4 cylinder stubbornly resisted all my attempts to get it un-stuck.

Scott
Hi, bulletpruf.
Sounds like you've 'been there - done that' and have the T-shirt to prove it. What little experience I have had with them, those Alfas are good diesels. They were used in the post WW2 Ansaldo crawlers and were the best part of them.

Maybe fix a proce BEFORE you start trying to unstick the engine with the proviso that you MIGHT buy it if you can get it running - - - - maybe with the some help from the current owner if he seriously wants to sell it?

Some of the more clued-up and observant people here might be able to give you a better assessment of the condition of the tracks from some 'closer-up' photos. They look worn to me from your current photos but the 'how worn' is harder to tell.

Just my 0.02.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Mon, Mar 4, 2024 11:54 AM
bulletpruf
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Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, bulletpruf.
Sounds like you've 'been there - done that' and have the T-shirt to prove it. What little experience I have had with them, those Alfas are good diesels. They were used in the post WW2 Ansaldo crawlers and were the best part of them.

Maybe fix a proce BEFORE you start trying to unstick the engine with the proviso that you MIGHT buy it if you can get it running - - - - maybe with the some help from the current owner if he seriously wants to sell it?

Some of the more clued-up and observant people here might be able to give you a better assessment of the condition of the tracks from some 'closer-up' photos. They look worn to me from your current photos but the 'how worn' is harder to tell.

Just my 0.02.
Thanks for the input, Deas Plant.

One of the problems with the machine is that it's pretty far from me - about 4 hours.  I was thinking about heading over there with a borescope, but I don't know if you can remove an injector and slide a borescope into the cylinder to take a look.  Anyone know?

Scott
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Tue, Mar 5, 2024 12:23 AM
caterpillar13
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Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, bulletpruf.
Sounds like you've 'been there - done that' and have the T-shirt to prove it. What little experience I have had with them, those Alfas are good diesels. They were used in the post WW2 Ansaldo crawlers and were the best part of them.

Maybe fix a proce BEFORE you start trying to unstick the engine with the proviso that you MIGHT buy it if you can get it running - - - - maybe with the some help from the current owner if he seriously wants to sell it?

Some of the more clued-up and observant people here might be able to give you a better assessment of the condition of the tracks from some 'closer-up' photos. They look worn to me from your current photos but the 'how worn' is harder to tell.

Just my 0.02.
the under carriage is shot, but if are just going to play it, it will you by.
if you are going to get DO NOT do any work on it, or the price WILL SKYROCKET UP. buy for low scrap price only.
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Tue, Mar 5, 2024 12:30 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to caterpillar13:
the under carriage is shot, but if are just going to play it, it will you by.
if you are going to get DO NOT do any work on it, or the price WILL SKYROCKET UP. buy for low scrap price only.
Removing and injector still leaves you with a 0.250" diameter orifice in the pre-combustion chamber. Not much room for a borescope.
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Tue, Mar 5, 2024 1:13 AM
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