Loading a D4

I will add that the machine was on the farm when the farm was bought, and the widow who sold it is in her 90"s and doesn't remember anything about it. So the sitting duration is not known, but her husband died 15 years prior. I'm just guessing 20 years.

Thanks

RD4 up to SE# 4G 3662 made in 1936
RD4 to D4 was changed in 1937 ending at 4G 8857 (Exact SE# change not known)
D4 designation in 1938

The tracks may not roll at all being stored for that period of time depending on weather conditions., My experience on frozen tracks is to pull it with another tractor to free them up and go from there.

I'm going to need the dozer to move as freely as possible to make it easier on the winch. I only need to move it 4 miles on the trailer, and a good part of that is gravel, so I can go slow. I planned to pull it on the trailer from the rear because I was concerned with the blade contacting the trailer. Is that a good idea? or is the blade going to contact the ground worse? I'm thinking the balance front to rear is weighted somewhat toward the front. Basically I'm looking fo load the dozer so it is as easy as possible on the winch. I will try to get the blade chained all the way up.

I didn't write down the full serial, and I think it had more than 4 numbers following the 4G, and might have ended in a W. It was hard to read and there is a winch on the back so the engine serial is all I could see. Maybe if it had a W, and if it indeed does, would that stands for winch?

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Thanks

Hi, R2D2.
The W at the end of the serial # would stand for 'wide' denoting a wide gauge machine. If the letters, SP were also there, that would indicate that it had special parts, usually but not restricted to different transmission parts.

Just my 0.02.

If you can, hook two long chains, one to each track about a 1/3 of the way to the front of the machine. Hook them together and then hook to that point. It will multiply your power to start the tracks turning after sitting and getting stiff. Once turning then hook to the drawbar. Also pull the steering levers all the way back and tie them back. If not stuck that will release the drivetrain for a much easier pull.

I back my tractor on to my trailer because I feel more comfortable unloading it going forwards - that's the only reason I have

I'd like to add that the 2 guys helping me with loading this dozer also have no experience with operating a dozer. So don't be afraid to state your replies in the most basic terms.
Thanks

These old tractors have Steering Clutches and Brakes. Pulling the steering lever releases the clutch on that side, nothing more. With no power it stops pulling on that side, but it can still roll or coast if on a steep enough hill, or just roll on making a very gradual turn. To make a sharp turn you need to apply brake to the side you released. More modern crawlers (1970's) sometimes had the brakes and steering clutches connected.

Moving the old tractor could be very easy to the other extreme of impossible. The chain could be rusted solid, but generally not. The brake bands can also rust to the drum. I which case you will not move it, until the band has been released. I have only had this happen once, so not a normal thing. But it only sat 6 months. And dragging it 5 to 10 feet did not release it. If things are loose and turning normally a small wheel tractor should move it on level ground.

But steering clutch plates rusting together and not releasing is way more common. Had one in a near desert (less than 10 inch average rainfall) parked in a barn do it. Then it is brut muscle from your towing vehicle to pull it sideways.

Hopefully you can come back with good news that all went well. And if not come put the brain trust here to work with other tricks they have used.