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D7 3T With Cracked Block - Junk or Can It be Welded?

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11 months 2 days ago #253375 by bulletpruf
Just like the title says, can this be fixed?  I haven't gone to look at it, so I'm not sure if there's water in the oil or vise versa.  Just wondering, in general, if this is fixable.  I realize if it can be fixed that it's a job for a skilled welder, of course.  I can stick weld, but I'd hire this out.

Thanks,

Scott

 

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11 months 2 days ago #253379 by ctsnowfighter
Is this the same D7 you have been trying to start?
From all the other issues you have posted, time to run away!

Fixing the block is something than needs to be assessed, is this freeze damage or something else.
Maybe other locations that are not as visible are damaged too.
Not as simple as putting an arc and hoping it fixes it.
CTS
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11 months 2 days ago #253380 by bulletpruf

Is this the same D7 you have been trying to start?
From all the other issues you have posted, time to run away!

Fixing the block is something than needs to be assessed, is this freeze damage or something else.
Maybe other locations that are not as visible are damaged too.
Not as simple as putting an arc and hoping it fixes it.
CTS

It's a different machine.  The one that I'm trying to start is a D7D 17A.  This one appears to be a 1952 D7 3T.  It's nearby, said to run, even though the block is cracked.  Undercarriage looks pretty good and it's cheap.  Just trying to figure out if a cracked block is something that could possibly be fixed.  FYI - pretty sure it's freeze damage based on the area and the fact that the engine is said to still run.

Thanks

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11 months 2 days ago #253381 by seiscat
Hi Scott, Since you are obviously looking for an old 'dozer here is a D7D for sale near me. The engine runs good. The final drives are leaking. The tractor moves and could be for limited use if the finals were filled with grease instead of oil. I don't know the price. The tractor has been sitting a little over a year, these pics were taken in January. Let me know if you want more info.
Craig
 

 

 

 
 
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11 months 2 days ago #253382 by bulletpruf
Hi Craig - Where are you located? I'm in San Antonio, TX. Both of the ones that I'm looking at are about 1.5 hours from me.

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11 months 2 days ago #253383 by seiscat
Hi Scott, I am about 90 miles east of you around Yoakum.
Craig
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11 months 2 days ago #253384 by bulletpruf

Hi Scott, I am about 90 miles east of you around Yoakum.
Craig
 

Ok, I'll send you a pm.

Thanks!

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11 months 2 days ago - 11 months 2 days ago #253385 by seiscat
If you select reply instead of quick reply the quote won't be added. Just click action.
The 3T might be worth it for the undercarriage parts.
Craig
Last edit: 11 months 2 days ago by seiscat.
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11 months 2 days ago #253386 by bulletpruf

If you select reply instead of quick reply the quote won't be added. Just click action.
The 3T might be worth it for the undercarriage parts.
Craig


Yeah, that's kind of what I was thinking.  Too bad these aren't that easy to transport and part out.

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11 months 2 days ago #253387 by ctsnowfighter
Scott,
There a a myrid of problems with freeze damage, many totally unseen until they manifest themselves.
Does this 3T have Starting Engine or has it been converted to Direct Electric?
Starting engines depend upon the main engines water pump to cool them, and as such use the same complete system. We had a 9G that had frozen, no question of the damages as the bottom tank of the radiator was gone. Nothing of note in the block but Starting Engine always made water in the oil. Internally, water jacket broke into the valve train area, crack leaked so as long as the engine was running - water was forced into the starting engine, filling the crankcase.

RE: Parting out, do some research!! NOTHING on these is light in weight and a lot of the final drive assembly, dead shaft, etc require specialized tooling.
Caterpillar dealers had 100 ton specialized porta-powers with specialized tooling for pulling and repressing sprockets for example.
If memory serves me correctly, pulling the steering clutches and bevel gear requires access through a small hole on outside of case to reach the bolts, this requires the machine to be moved forward or backward as necessary to reach all the bolts.
Re working track chains is a specialized job too, takes specialized tooling and press to remove pins and bushing, then replacing same.
Unlike Military Track - Caterpillar comes apart at one location, either the Master Link/Pin or in later years, an alligator section of rail.

In short, there is nothing easy or light about tackling major repairs or parting out a D7!

If you do not have one - I would suggest an A frame with track and chain hoist on transverse top bar, rollers, at minimum, wide enough to span the tractor easily and on solid wheels.

Good luck - be safe.
CTS
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