17AFarmer wrote:

It’s been a long time since I have seen a low horse E but I can tell you that is NOT a high horse E. the turbo and air cleaner setup are backwards of that, the oil filters are different only 1 filter on the E ,the fan is 36 inch on the E I had too take both the E and the 17A fans and make one out of them the 17A has a 29 inch fan, I think a low horse E has the same oil slinger setup on the rear main as a 17A the high horse E has a piston ring seal which you have too make an adaptor plate to go onto your bell housing CAT wanted $4000.00. 35 years ago for a new bell housing I am pretty sure that is a 17A engine. Also the manifolds are bolted to the heads not clamped on a high horse. 17afarmer

The block casting is what is throwing me off.  From what I can tell, that should be the D7E block, right? 

 

The biggest problem is the undercarriage! The old D7 undercarriage is no longer available! The undercarriage in the pictures is shot. Drop this project like a hot rock in my opinion...
Craig 
 

seiscat wrote:

The biggest problem is the undercarriage! The old D7 undercarriage is no longer available! The undercarriage in the pictures is shot. Drop this project like a hot rock in my opinion...
Craig 
 

I can see that it's junk, and kind of figured that would no longer be available new.  Sounds like my only option would be finding something used that's in better condition, right?
 

You can get bottom rollers they will be for a E which is 3/4 bolts but you can get the bushings for 5/8 for a 17A top rollers are no problem that I know of. As far as rails D6C-D6D is 8 inch pitch and I have been told several times you can make them work on a D7 never tried it myself , a 3T was 36 link a 17A was 37 link those old 7s were good horses I don’t want to see them Die!!! 17afarmer

You are correct, 1M4844 is the casting number for block 1M4847, used on D7E, 47A, 48A, and others.

IMO - RUN AWAY FAST!
Find something that you can enjoy, something that is fixable if you want but small enough that you can put on a trailer and tow behind your F-350 or like, safely. With the D-7 & dozer, you will be bound to a low-boy for any transportation.
The D-7 you are disucssing is bound for parts that "may" be useable.
I believe you have reached your own conclusion and are seeking re-assurance.

I would suggest before you dive into a machine, do some research, learn what to look for and what may be available in way of parts, etc.
There are some models that can be quite difficult to obtain parts.
CTS

ctsnowfighter wrote:

IMO - RUN AWAY FAST!
Find something that you can enjoy, something that is fixable if you want but small enough that you can put on a trailer and tow behind your F-350 or like, safely. With the D-7 & dozer, you will be bound to a low-boy for any transportation.
The D-7 you are disucssing is bound for parts that "may" be useable.
I believe you have reached your own conclusion and are seeking re-assurance.

I would suggest before you dive into a machine, do some research, learn what to look for and what may be available in way of parts, etc.
There are some models that can be quite difficult to obtain parts.
CTS
 

Yeah, based on what I see and what y'all are telling me, it's best utilized as a parts machine.  But I'm still going to check it out and see if we can get it started.  Weather is supposed to be gorgeous tomorrow and I'm anxious for an excuse to get out of the city.  Who knows, I might even learn something.  

As for your point about getting something else, the best bet for me would likely be a vintage D3.  I just haven't seen any pop up for sale near me. 

Hi 17A Farmer, D6C or D6D rails DON'T fit. D7E bottom rollers are a no-go also.
Craig 

My old long time track guy I am sure was selling them I pretty sure he had the bushings to go with. I don’t know about rails but I remember what he said about the rollers Mike

There is a little dog leg box end wrench that fits in behind the injector pump between the pump and main eng. block. There is a bleeder valve there just on the rear of each injector that is very difficult to reach without a proper wrench. I crack open the nut clamping the outgoing fuel line at the top of each injector. When I crank the engine I don't close this fuel line until it spits fuel. If no fuel escapes the opened fuel line nut as you turn over the eng., open the hidden bleeder behind the injector until fuel does pour out at the open fuel line nut. When fuel does flow out at the nut, crank closed the hidden line until the leakage flow starts to diminish. Close the fuel line nut to finish.You might need an umbrella here unless you really need a diesel shower. Have fun.