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Antique Caterpillar Machinery Owners Club
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Final Drive
Final Drive
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Posts: 72
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Thank you received: 7
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1 year 5 months ago #249006
by gwoods
Ok, the final drive has a large amount of pressure pit on it. I have tried a humongous puller, much bigger than the one in pictures of steps to followed. I now have removed all bolts out of cover over big gear next to brake housing. If you have to take each part off from outside cover up to sprocket and to each covering the I have the proverbial boat anchor. Surely someone of folks have experienced this predicament before. What steps to get whole final drive off? If you can help it be much appreciated.
Gary Woods
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1 year 5 months ago #249009
by ctsnowfighter
Gary -
you had a thread about the final drive, now starting a new one?
It would be better if you kept adding to the original thread so others know what has been suggested.
As always, photographs are most helpful as sometimes terminology becomes confusing.
Pulling a sprocket from the shaft is not a job for a makeshift puller, it requires tons of pressure and should always be done from a remote location. As an example - the other side of the tractor! Caterpillar designed specialized tools (pullers) for these high tonage applications.
It has been many years since I was around a final being pulled apart. If memory serves correctly, once the bolts are removed around the "bull gear" housing, the housing can be carefully seperated from the tractor case that houses the steering clutches and ring/pinon gear. Of course this requires all of the attachement to the track frame to be out of the way and lose.
I am sure there are many here that will jump in and give you the help you need!
CTS
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1 year 5 months ago #249011
by gwoods
Thank you for your response. I have rail lowered and will send an attachment this evening. I have got two supports to pick up the final drive.
Gary Woods
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1 year 5 months ago - 1 year 5 months ago #249044
by Glum
You need to get that outer hub/bearing retainer off it's taper first. Either with a puller contraption or by turning the big C- spanner nut anti clockwise as tight as you can with a 4 foot pipe extension, then whacking the hub on either side at the same time with two 12lb plus hammers (mind each others kneecaps), retighten nut, repeat the pounding, till it pops. Make sure the outer nut is in place with just enough clearance to allow the hub to pop off the taper.
Cat hung on to that final drive design for half a century.
Last edit: 1 year 5 months ago by
Glum.
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Posts: 72
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Thank you received: 7
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1 year 5 months ago #249046
by gwoods
K, l have not give up yet. Thank you for the reply. I am going to try your recommendation. If I am successful with this tomorrow it will call for a small celebration. Working garden awhile. Celebrating the day of rest by rocking on front porch. Thank You, Thank You. gwoods
Gary Woods
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1 year 5 months ago #249055
by trainzkid88
are the tracks still on? that could be half the problem. if you want to take the entire outer drive section off you need to remove the track. a job best done with a track press by some one who knows exactly what they're doing.
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1 year 5 months ago - 1 year 5 months ago #249060
by willwingo
I can't stand it any longer ---You must remove all of the out board parts to gain access to the final drive parts or to remove the final drive case. This includes using the proper puller to remove the sprocket.The "outer bearing adjusting nut" must be removed - this is pictured below. You need the proper tool to turn the nut - a 48" trimo or some homemade tool will not do it. Heat may be needed. Cat calls for a 5F9693 spanner to turn it. I use a OTC CT 686 wrench. Once you get it to start pushing on the "bearing cage holder" and get some pressure on the taper, a hard hit with a sledge may help. It only takes a slight amount of movement to release it from the taper.You will need the same wrench to remove the pressed on outer bearing.All the seals and other stuff comes off much easier - but a nasty mess of years old grease, oil and dirt.
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1 year 5 months ago #249066
by trainzkid88
that adjustable c hook spanner is rather spendy but its the correct tool. the genuine cat ones were made by proto or otc anyway. the question is what is he actually trying to do.
if its just cuase the bellows seals are weaping nipping that bearing adjuster up a bit might slow it up(well thats what i was told by another collector) if its the only reason and nothing else is wrong leav it weap that spanner will buy a lot of oil.
if there is a problem in the final drive itself then you have no choice buy or hire that spanner and get someone with a track press to split the track.
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Final Drive
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