hello to all;
After a years work, I am finally ready to build a fire and roll it over .
My question is how long do I run the pony,how long can it run?
I have ask this before in other groups but never got a straight answer .
common wisdom does apply here.this is not my first CAT just my first pony
ser.D7-3T38151 Thanks

Hi greyhead, aren't we both,
welcome to the BB.
Here are some 8 pages from the only 3T OMI I have, Form No 10481-6, date 02-56. It covers 3T1-3T 28058, BUT, except for some of the engine control levers the proceedure will be the same.
The main reason I feel that an explaination--- from one person to the next---of the starting technique variations comes from the need to vary the cranking time to suit the ambient temperature of the day-season and the condition of both engines and the Diesel fuel system components, especially the injector spray patterns at cranking speeds.
As the proceedure tells us experience of each machines individual idocyncrasies will get you there after experimenting with different throttle and choke positions to get the pony to fire easily and consistantly, and the time needed to crank for a clean fireup of the main engine.

I have been told that a cold start of the D4's used by Australia in the Antarctic in the 50's and 60's could take 8 hours from a cold start, this would include heating under blankets with an Eberspacher (sp?) fuel fired heating gun and maybe up to nearly 2 hours of cranking with the pony.
I do not think there is really a limit to the crank time--within common sense time limits--as long as the main is turning at speed the water pump circulates coolant to cool the pony and warm the main. Ideally crank time is limited to the time needed to get the main to start as soon as possible---experience of your machine-- you are probably confused more than ever but you will get there.
Good luck, hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

The pony on the 3T will cool by thermal syphon to the main engine. When the main is cold you can run the pony as long as necessary to get it warmed up. Accordingly, if the diesel is warm, "as long as necessary" isn't all that long a time so you're still pretty darned safe. If the Cat isn't pretty close to dead level, fill the pony crankcase about 3/4 inch over full on the dip stick. Running them on a hill can take the bearings out on the dry end.

3T is a great old machine. Have fun!

when you start your pup don't let the pup rev up to the max, allow it to idle until the crankcase of the pup warms then start increase your revs from there.
firekat

firekat's comment is the number one main thing to get a long trouble free life from your pony. When this is religously followed we would get 10-20,000 hours on main engine before pony rebuild. The other main thing in long life is to always idle down and shut off the fuel so carb is always empty. Do not shut down with the switch, we always removed them so no one would be tempted to use them.

Might be varying opinions as to how long you can run one of these, but no coolant circulates through the starting engine when the diesel is not engaged and spinning, obviously in the colder weather it may take longer for it to heat up. I don't like taking chances with these, so as soon as it's warmed a bit and ready for more throttle, I'll engage the diesel. I would agree, good let it warm up, but do not over do it.

It's a prudent question, these old high rev splash lube starting engines do require some attention to little things, at least I believe so. You can install a petcock on the bottom side of the Zenith carb, use a small fuel hose and drain the bowl of all it's fuel, after the diesel fires, still not clear as to what it is in that carb that will allow fuel to drain down into the crankcase. I drain the fuel as it takes too long to run it out after shutting the sediment bowl valve, using a clean container, just pour it back into the fuel tank, or storage container, and please always use care when doing this. My rationale behind this is, that whatever it is with these carburetors that can potentially allow the fuel to drain into the crankcase, (be it just age or neglect of the carb assuming they were not as problematic to allow fuel to drain when new) is that smaller or less noticable amounts of gasoline may get into your crankcase oil, that bowl holds quite a bit, enough to thin the oil significantly, so why take chances ? Starting with new oil, and draining that bowl off right after the diesel fires, is "peace of mind" for me, as I know nothing has drained into the crankcase. I think that thinned oil will seize one of these up very easily. I left the sediment bowl valve open once and the crankcase overflowed with gasoline, checking the oil for level is one thing, but also very important to check for contamination, glad I did that day, starting motor could have been toast in a hurry. I think "check oil" means a little more than the level, especially with these. These have deep sumps, designed for non-detergent oils, that settle out contaminants into the sump pits, not sure if using modern oils presents any issues, I just keep mine changed often, and use a good 30 wt. oil, but have always wondered what would be the best oil to use in these, viscosity and type


The sump drain plugs are a joy to get at on these, so I clean the surrounding area, wash down with a hose, so that I can open the side inspection cover and not worry about dust or dirt getting in, and use suction (I use drill pump I got at NAPA) to remove the old oil. I clean the sump pits, using care to leave NO lint or contaminants, replace the cover and re-fill with new oil. I believe keeping the oil clean in these, is very important, again, high rev, old technology, splash lube type engine. I'd prefer to use the drain plugs, but they are fun to get to, one of mine has some odd ball arrangement, tube connected to each plug, so I had to take the side cover off, but hopefully will be able to replace this to drain plugs.


I also take quick notice of the rpm's as soon as that diesel fires, assuming one has the pinion latches adjusted properly to release at the right time, should not have to worry, but with the age of these tractors and all the small, fine tuning, and details to consider, including safety, I think it's wise to have ones hand on the throttle linkage, if the starting motor and pinion does not release at the correct time the diesel will overspeed the starting motor, but you can easily prevent that by using the throttle linkage to shut it down.


Also, in addition to this, use solid conductor spark plug wires, don't use champion plugs, and keep that magneto firing a hot spark, and the fuel lines, including the fuel tank, lines and screen at the sediment bowl and at the carb clean, in good running condition these will fire with a hand crank in warmer temperatures without much trouble, colder temps too, but the electric starter is nice for that. Common sense applies here, but keeping in mind these details is important, that and your safety make sure the master clutch is disengaged and the trans is in neutral, though I believe the clutch being left engaged and the trans in neutral, both levers, eliminates the risk of it popping into gear by mistake, supposed to run them like that when using it for stationary work, also less wear on pilot bearing etc., The operators instructions manual is clear on this.

You'll really enjoy getting it fired up and working with this tractor, if you have not experienced these before. That serial number may be a typo, 28,856 I think was the production on these, so 38,151 may be a typo here or maybe you read the tag incorrectly, best of luck with it !