Well I am looking for suggestions. My D2 that was given to me the main engine is froze (will not turn over). I have pulled the injectors and precombustion chambers, sprayed in PB Buster on to the pistons and let it set for a week. Today I pulled the kitty and threw the clutch in to 2nd, 4th, 5th and even tried reverse. When I put the clutch in the cat stood on its nose and the truck came to a stop. The man who gave the cat to me said the last time the engine was froze he took the pump off the front and use a pipe wrench and a loooooong cheeter to break the engine free, any suggestions from you guys with experience would be great. I am hoping to not have to tear the engine down.

I am not a expert but if your motor is freese just pull out the head before scrap the the pistons and sleeve and more.

Unless you want to wait a while longer (like me!), you should probably do as Hector says and "OFF WITH HER HEAD!".

You have a lot more options once the head is off, including bumping the pistons with an appropriately sized wood block and a "persuader", lighting diesel/kerosene etc on fire in each cylinders and let it heat up things, scraping/honing the exposed cylinder walls above the pistons so those that are coming up can come on up once they start moving, etc.

It is possible to bend a rod with some of the brute methods, though not likely unless the engine turns and then one piston comes up on an obstruction as you are pulling/spinning it over.

My 5J has been sitting full of diesel, though it has probably drained away now, for over a year! I guess I should say, I'm not letting it get any "stucker" at least.

You can't really apply much force to turn the engine by pulling it in gear. Your best bet would be to pry against the ring gear but I don't think it is possible with a D2. You might have a chance by putting the pony in gear and trying to turn it with a big socket. I would fill the cylinders with Kroil. Ne sure and take the valve cover off and make sure no valves are stuck. I think it is worthwhile to exaust all possiblilities before taking the head off, but you don't want to break anything.

Tom

pour carb cleaner down the stack, that is how the water got there in the first place. wait a while and it will be free.

thansk
KoO
Published Author

Well I pulled the head today and it had a valve stuck. Glade I pulled the head. Now the new question do I have to replace the sleeves, rings and Pistons of the damamged cylinders? I know it depends on the condition, one excellent one slight damage, one a little damage, one rough in ring travel area but may be honable?? Suggestions?

Whoa!
I may have missed it, but do you have it turning over yet?

If you can hone/scrape the exposed cylinder wall and there's room for the lowest pistons to go on down so you can get to the area where the rings were sitting/rusting into the cylinder, you can mostly take care of the cylinder roughness. Nothing much you can do with the stuck rings and cylinder wear though! It's a slippery slope, working on one of these, before you know it, you've done a complete overhaul.

You might want to fasten each sleeve down with a piece of pipe and a washer or two until you get the pistons loose. They aren't prone to pushing out of the block, but I suppose they could come out that way and it might complicate things a bit if you were not planning on pulling the sleeves.

One trick I've heard when you are honing/scraping the rust above a piston, you can put some grease down in the corner of the sleeve and piston area to keep abrasive dust and rust from getting in there until you are ready to scrape it away. Of course if you are going to pull the pistons anyway, it's a moot point.

No Not turning yet it is currently setting with diesel on top of the pistons I will get the block and hammer out to try to tap them down this week. Thanks for the suggestion of holding the sleeves in I had not thought of that happening.

I've had good luck with heating the pistons before using the wood block and hammer. I've tried using diesel but I've had better results with a torch. Leave the oxygen off and blacken the piston tops first, then adjust to a neutral flame and begin heating. When the blackening starts to go away, stop the heat before the piston gets damaged. Let 'em cool 'til you can put your hand on 'em, then use the wood block and start tapping. A 12# hammer is about right, two whacks on the first one, then rotate between 'em. As soon as you get movement, put the hammer away, clean the bores and start trying to "rock" the crankshaft at either the front pulley or flywheel. By "rocking" pretty soon you'll be able to get it to turn all the way over.

Had the same issue with my 3J. Tried the block and hammer method till I had a garage full of splintered wood. After nearly smacking a head stud with a sledge hammer, I stopped to think about it a little more.

I made up a push plate. Took a piece of 1" thick steel plate sized to fit between the studs directly overtop of the piston. Welded a piece of pipe (3/4" in think?) on each corner of the plate to fit over 4 of the head studs. Then I placed a spacer between the plate and piston, then used head washers and nuts and slowly started torqueing the nuts down on the corners of the plate. Use a torque wrench so as not to overload the studs. On 2 pistons I had to give the center of the plate a whack with a hammer (while studs were under tension) to help out.
I would hear a nice POP when the piston would finally break free. Once it moved even a little, I put more penetrant to it and let it sit overnight. The next day though still tight, they did keep on moving. It was a very tedious procedure as you have to reshim the washers and the spacer between the plate and piston numerous times, but it worked really well. I used a 2" aluminum camlock nipple for a spacer thinking it would break before anything else would, and it did.