I am a new member and a true novice when it comes dozers. I acquired an old D6 that hasnt run for 15+ years. I'm hoping to get it going again, but not sure where to start. The local guru told me that he was the last to use it, and that it was in great shape, except the pony motor was "junk", they parked it on a slope and let it roll then put it in gear and it always started. This old friend said at the time he had a starter for it, that I could have and was to be my adviser for getiing it running again, unfortunately he passed a way month ago and I am in need of advice .He was a good guy new a lot about CAT machinery, repaired them for years.
This dozer was stting on a farm for several years and has been vandalized somewhat. Someone took the fuel cap (thescreen was still in it tank looks pretty clean), the trans dipstick, plug out of the right rear final drive, bowl off the air breather, and cap off the pony motor exhaust. Other than these problems it seems to be ok. We pulled it on and off the trailer when we moved it home, the tracks broke loose and it rolls just fine. I am thinking to try and pull start it before I sink a lot of $$ and time in to it. 
Need a good bit of help and advice on getting his accomplished! I would really like to find  manuals and the missing parts and what is best to do IF I can get it running a far as the pony motor or converting it. Read some of the posts on this, it seems there are about as many pro as cons as far as that is concerned. I hope to use it to do a bit of clearing around the farm, just liked the thought of having it, more or less a hobby.I do have some mechanical skill and repair my farm machinery. any advice, experiences will be appreciated!
 

Pictures would help. If nothing else we like pictures. I would check all fluids for water first. Crack drain plug loose on every compartment. Water will come out before oil. Some condensation is to be expected. But antifreeze in the engine is a bad sign, Once water is dealt with then top off fluids. I would drain fuel tank since it is surely contaminated now. Put in 10 gal or so of clean fuel. There will be a hex plug on the side of the injection pump. Pull it out and top off for now with any decent motor oil. Then If the engine will turn over 360 degrees. I would pull it far enough to get oil pressure and then yank on the throttle to turn on the fuel. Might need a sniff or two of ether to get it to fire at first, Good luck!

Ok~ this gives me a starting place.! Will get pictures pictures and try figure out how to get them posted. A bit concerned checked the fuel tank, today, looks dry and clean..maybe a hole some where i am thinking, will try and flush as kracked1 suggested. Never thought to crack the darin plugs to check for water thanks for that!

located WC central indiana, north of Terre Haute

ebay and flea markets are a good place to look for manuals you want the three main ones parts book, operators maintenance instruction(OMI) book and serviceman's reference(workshop manual) book. if it has attachments such as hydraulics or winch(only for hyster winches) there's separate parts books for these.

it was common for the drain bungs to be removed from the steering clutch compartments to allow any crap to drain away if working in water/mud BUT it also allows wasps and other creatures in. trouble is they would get removed and then left out or lost. they are npt thread so available at most pipe fitting suppliers. the 2 big oil filler cups at the back are hard to find though and easy to break off or so the cousin told us he had changed them to a normal threaded bung and put the original in the toolbox we simply fitted a elbow and bung to the side that was missing. he used to just back the machine onto a bit of timber to get the right angle for fluid level.

i would also change the fuel filters in main engine fuel tower. they are cheap insurance.
depends whats wrong with the pony it may be fixable it better to have it working than not these engines where designed to be warmed by it running and primed with oil and fuel by it turning over the main before starting. later models had glow plugs and it wasnt such a issue. you could always fit a grid heater into the air pipe from the air cleaner something from a cummins might fit, a bit of cutting and welding you could be in business. or get a couple of the type used on ford and massey tractors weld in a couple of bung ports and your on your way.

many have done direct start conversions theres a bit involved in getting a proper charging system but its possible. it even possible to have both pony and direct start. some ponies were electric start too.

Ok~ this gives me a starting place.! Will get pictures pictures and try figure out how to get them posted. A bit concerned checked the fuel tank, today, looks dry and clean..maybe a hole some where i am thinking, will try and flush as kracked1 suggested. Never thought to crack the darin plugs to check for water thanks for that!

Welcome to our club! You will find these useful especially the OMI.
Operation And Maintenance Instructions:
www.ebay.com/itm/134209966201
Parts Book:
www.ebay.com/itm/144717030408
Service Manual:
www.ebay.com/itm/272938293014
or www.ebay.com/itm/224456935050
These might not be a exact match for your S/N but they should help,
Craig

trainzkid88 wrote:

it was common for the drain bungs to be removed from the steering clutch compartments to allow any crap to drain away if working in water/mud it also allows wasps and other creatures in
 

I think you mean the other way around. The plugs work as intended to keep the mud and water from entering but mostly they are removed as the bevel gear shaft seals or the final drive seals weep oil or the seals on the access covers and control shafts let water in. If you are working in mud or water deep enough to enter the steering clutches through the plug holes then you should put them back in or put them back in but drill a hole in them and put a split pin in the hole.

Also you mention welding and cutting to fit pre-heaters, intake manifolds on these are cast iron. I would not like to try welding anything to them.

i meant the air intake piping not the manifold itself. but cast can be welded with the right techniques. ive bronzed cast a few times. the fun bit is how dirty is it and what type of cast is it.
yes i would drill the bungs for a drain hole with a split pin and put em back in. keep stuff out but allowing drainage.