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D4 30A - Australia

D4 30A - Australia

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ozzie6677
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Hi All

New member here.  I have just purchased this D4 30A. S/N 30A-133.  The Dozer is in very good running order.  Track links have been replaced less than 500 hours ago, as well as sprockets, final drive bearings and idlers.  Carrier roller and track rollers have also been replaced.  Paint is a bit rough, and pony motor is currently not running.  It has compression, but is missing magneto switch. It has been converted to 24v start. The wear on the track rails and bushes is less than 19 thou from new specs.  It will need new or refurbished gauges. Clutches and brakes seem to be good.  Has a home made stick rake fitted, but also comes with standard pusher (manually adjusted) blade that will need a new cutting edge.  

In terms of history:

- was purchased new from Waugh and Josephson in Sydney in 1959 and then cleared tracks on a farm near Albury on the New South Wales Victorian border. 
- Same owner then used it on his farm in Euroa Victoria.
- The undercarriage was reconditioned by Steve Ware in Mansfield Victoria and then sold to a dairy farmer based in Woodside in 1999
- Been used occasionally since to clear scrub, currently has 6700 hours.  Previous owner fabricated scrub canopy.
- has all service books, tools, letters between owners and original grease pack.

Looking forward to bringing her back to a better visual condition.  
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Mon, Oct 31, 2022 4:13 PM
trainzkid88
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Location: b.berg qld
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sounds like a nice machine.

"i reject your reality and substitute my own" - adam savage. i suspect my final words maybe "well shit, that didnt work"

instead of perfection some times we just have to accept practicality

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Mon, Oct 31, 2022 4:28 PM
trainzkid88
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Location: b.berg qld
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Reply to trainzkid88:
sounds like a nice machine.
cover those rams with canvas tarp or get a old tractor tire tube slit it on the inside dia and cut into suitable segments. those rams are not a cheap repair if the shafts are scored or pitted have new shafts made using the existing rod ends to re-chrome is over $700 bucks each. reshafting is about half that.

"i reject your reality and substitute my own" - adam savage. i suspect my final words maybe "well shit, that didnt work"

instead of perfection some times we just have to accept practicality

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Mon, Oct 31, 2022 4:32 PM
ozzie6677
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Reply to trainzkid88:
cover those rams with canvas tarp or get a old tractor tire tube slit it on the inside dia and cut into suitable segments. those rams are not a cheap repair if the shafts are scored or pitted have new shafts made using the existing rod ends to re-chrome is over $700 bucks each. reshafting is about half that.
Thanks for the tip - wouldn't have thought of that
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Mon, Oct 31, 2022 4:34 PM
trainzkid88
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Location: b.berg qld
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Reply to ozzie6677:
Thanks for the tip - wouldn't have thought of that
also make a couple of wood wedges to support the pilot engine fly wheel while working the machine they have a habit of walking through the crank bushes. also fit a rain flap to the small exhuast pipe especialy as it runs through the main engine intake if it rusts out youll dust the main engine. the reason it does is it acts like a glow plug for the main engine

"i reject your reality and substitute my own" - adam savage. i suspect my final words maybe "well shit, that didnt work"

instead of perfection some times we just have to accept practicality

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Mon, Oct 31, 2022 4:47 PM
trainzkid88
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Location: b.berg qld
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Reply to trainzkid88:
also make a couple of wood wedges to support the pilot engine fly wheel while working the machine they have a habit of walking through the crank bushes. also fit a rain flap to the small exhuast pipe especialy as it runs through the main engine intake if it rusts out youll dust the main engine. the reason it does is it acts like a glow plug for the main engine
didnt see it at first it has a rain trap fitted check its in working order.

"i reject your reality and substitute my own" - adam savage. i suspect my final words maybe "well shit, that didnt work"

instead of perfection some times we just have to accept practicality

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Mon, Oct 31, 2022 4:48 PM
PhilC
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Reply to trainzkid88:
cover those rams with canvas tarp or get a old tractor tire tube slit it on the inside dia and cut into suitable segments. those rams are not a cheap repair if the shafts are scored or pitted have new shafts made using the existing rod ends to re-chrome is over $700 bucks each. reshafting is about half that.
[quote="trainzkid88 post=241892 userid=11838"]cover those rams with canvas tarp or get a old tractor tire tube slit it on the inside dia and cut into suitable segments. those rams are not a cheap repair if the shafts are scored or pitted have new shafts made using the existing rod ends to re-chrome is over $700 bucks each. reshafting is about half that.
 [/quote]
If you going to leave it stored outside your better off lowering the blade removing the rod pins and retracting the cylinder rather than anything Chris has suggested the reason being the oil in the cylinders will protect the chrome and if you put canvas or a tractor tire on the shaft it can cause moisture to be trapped next to the shaft causing corrosion. Usually a chrome shaft will only go rusty if it has been damaged or the chrome is worn too thin or was too thin from manufacture. My brothers Track Marshall dozers use the same type of setup for the blade and they never went rusty even after he retired from earth-moving and the machines sat for years unused whereas my D6 has rust spots on the brand new shafts I made due to the chrome being either too thin or poorly applied.

 
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Mon, Oct 31, 2022 6:00 PM
trainzkid88
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Location: b.berg qld
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Reply to PhilC:
[quote="trainzkid88 post=241892 userid=11838"]cover those rams with canvas tarp or get a old tractor tire tube slit it on the inside dia and cut into suitable segments. those rams are not a cheap repair if the shafts are scored or pitted have new shafts made using the existing rod ends to re-chrome is over $700 bucks each. reshafting is about half that.
 [/quote]
If you going to leave it stored outside your better off lowering the blade removing the rod pins and retracting the cylinder rather than anything Chris has suggested the reason being the oil in the cylinders will protect the chrome and if you put canvas or a tractor tire on the shaft it can cause moisture to be trapped next to the shaft causing corrosion. Usually a chrome shaft will only go rusty if it has been damaged or the chrome is worn too thin or was too thin from manufacture. My brothers Track Marshall dozers use the same type of setup for the blade and they never went rusty even after he retired from earth-moving and the machines sat for years unused whereas my D6 has rust spots on the brand new shafts I made due to the chrome being either too thin or poorly applied.

 
ours is out side all the time just covered with tire tubes and we have high humidity and haven't had any rust spotting in 7 years. now the tubes are not tight or wrapped around they are thrown over for a loose fit over the entire ram not directly on the shaft and open underneath so it can breath somewhat. (do watch out for paper wasps though they seen to love building under there, dad learnt the hard way once. same with the sparkplug ends on the pilot engine they bite too as they often dont have insulating boots. and the starting pinion lever is just infront and below of the plug) something about yellow paint attracts them european wasps

another idea is rest the blade on a log or hardwood blocks so the rams are held in the retracted position also keeps the blade edge out of the dirt and moisture
we also have ours parked up on some old hardwood house stumps keeps the track out of the mud too

"i reject your reality and substitute my own" - adam savage. i suspect my final words maybe "well shit, that didnt work"

instead of perfection some times we just have to accept practicality

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Mon, Oct 31, 2022 6:42 PM
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