You say the pins are worn? You can't really see the pins, you will see the bushings. The bushings wear where the sprocket engages them and become out of round before wearing completely through into the pin bore.
Both the pins and bushings wear internally to effectively increase the pitch of the track links. This eventually leads to increased sprocket tooth wear as the bushings ride closer to the sprocket tips even if the track tension is kept adjusted. When the idler gets to the front of the track frame/the tensioner adjustment is maxed out, you will probably be at the wear limit on the pitch. The recommended "turn at" % wear on both the outer dimension and the pitch is to maximize the total life of the pins and bushings. With newer, sealed and lubricated track (SALT), internal wear is vastly decreased and the most important thing to watch becomes the external bushing wear. A properly equipped shop can disassemble the track and turn the bushings and pins and reassemble the track to essentially double the life of the assembly.
The rail links wear on the surface that runs against the track rollers and becomes shorter. The pin bosses will get close to the track roller flanges and if the rollers are worn as well, they will hit and create severe wear in a hurry and result in loosening of pins in the links. At the 100% wear dimension the hard surfacing on the links is gone and rapid wear will follow.
Look at these links for dimensions and measuring instructions.
www.crawlerheaven.com/tracklinks.htm
Your track links should have some numbers on them so you can compare the measurements with the % worn for the correct part number link. Over time, most links became taller and so the % worn dimensions might not be correct if you have updated rails on the tractor. I found a set of rails on a D2 I bought that are almost new measurment in height, but are obviously worn a lot. It doesn't make sense unless that side has a D3 track which had a taller link than the D2 to begin with.
For the 3 worn bushings, someone put in 3 that were not of the same quality as the others, were already worn some, forgot to turn those 3 when turning the rest, etc.
If the seals on the final drive gear case are not leaking along the sides of the sprocket, it can be cheaper to re-rim the sprocket in place. Most folks don't have the equipment to pull and press the sprockets, but a reasonably competent welder can replace the rim. The old sprocket rim is cut off with a torch and the new ring or bolt on segment adapter ring is welded to the spokes.
Good luck!