Recently purchased a D4 7U dozer.

Ran great when we went to look at it. We loaded it on a trailer and drove 4 hours. It started fine and we unloaded it and moved it around. 
The next day I went to try and start it and nothing. 

It’s been converted to electric start. 
Turns over good with pressure release open, and closed (slowes down when closed)
No smoke out of stack

I replaced the filter in front of the fuel pump. 
Bleed the system all the way to the injectors and have fuel 
No pressure gauge but fuel pumps with decent pressure. 

There is a flip up cover on the pump that has a window. I don’t see any fuel or moving parts in this window. 

Any help would be great. 

       

That "window" is the access to view the service hour meter. Nothing in the way of moving parts to see in there.

Be sure you are moving the throttle lever far enough forward to engage the rack and send fuel to the engine.

You need one of these before you put it to work! www.ebay.com/itm/373153770886?hash=item5...tkp%3ABk9SR7T07fDjYA

we found our would start best if the all way forward to give full fuel it sort of felt like it went past a detent.
you might have a airlock somewhere bleed it again. well it looks like there is a oil weep on the governor housing by the amount of crud build up. a little oil attracts a lot of crud. give the crud a sniff does it smell of oil or fuel?

how bad were the filters. and how much crud in the fuel filter housing?
could be bad injectors or bad injector lines/connections.
tighten or replace all the hose clamps bad hose clamps will cause it to draw air.
looks like someone has fitted a aftermarket fuel pre filter. the actual filters are inside the fuel tower(its labelled 6f3767) and look like reels of cotton twine (there was a change part way through u series production) ours has the wound type filters. the bleeder valve for the fuel tower is just above that cast on part number the tool for that is still available from the dealer and fits the fuel bleeders on all machines of this era. (if you have the proper dogleg bent spanner even better as they are hard to find, just like hens teeth)

and yes get yourself a copy of the 3 main books for these machines. the operators book (OMI), the serviceman reference and a parts book.
if you have hydraulics on the machine there is parts and service books for them to. a book for the diesel engine is handy too these have the D315 engine.

you can make these pressure bleed by placing a bung in the filler neck and adding a little compressed air. by a little i mean no more than 5 to 10 psi.

and have you dipped the fuel? low fuel can do this too.
a bad lift pump will also cuase hard starting. make sure you have good fuel flow to the lift pump a bit of crud in the tank valve can cuase poor flow and thus hard starting.

Very likely you have not opened the throttle far enough to get past the shut off detent. Move it back and forth a couple of times to get the feel of it before you try again.Some need a fairly hefty pull to get past the detent. a well worn one you won't feel much.Lever at the pump goes forward for go lever on the dash goes back for go. cheers WF

The fuel filters are available from Napa Auto. Part number 3825 at $25 each. need 4.. There is also a WIX number for the filters, 33825. The gaskets are listed as a gas filter (I have no idea why) part number 5635 and are/were a little over $2 each. Good luck. Grant.

Hi, Scott8270.
There should also be a throttle control lever on the side of the governor on the left side of the engine. If you use this lever to open and close your fuel supply, you would be more likely to feel the click that indicates that you have opened the injector pumps to supply fuel to the engine. If the throttle linkage is worn, it can sometimes be less than distinct at the main throttle lever. This second lever was used when starting with a pony motor and is connected direct to the governor.

When the engine has been shut down with the throttle, no click when reopening the throttle means no fuel to the injectors.

And wimmera farmer is right - throttle pulled back = opening the throttle. It was the DUMKOPF International Harvester crawlers of that era that had the 'push forward to open' throttle.

Just my 0.02.

Couple of points - I have not seen mentioned -

Use a hand type bicycle pump or something to limit the amount of pressure you put on a fuel tank - those systems were not made to be pressurized.
Some used to drill and thread a fuel cap for that purpose, using as shrader valve.

When bleeding a system start at the fuel source and work to the end - IE --- tank, filters - pump - injectors.
Voice of experience --- do not try to cheat and cut a box end to make a wrench for those fittings on pump or injectors --- it will not work, always spreads and slips!

Remember --- anything beyond the pump is under very high pressures - "crack" the lines carefully - never use your fingers to check for the leak!
High Pressure fluids are a serious threat to one's health and safety.

As others have said - there is nothing like having the books to refer to - money well spent.

CTS

A common cause of that problem, is that the rack is stuck. Pull off the cover that is held on with the five bolts on the injection pump housing, and make sure the rack moves when you move the throttle, if it's stuck work it back and forth till freed up, then clean and lubricate.