I bought a late 3T D7 last month, and chuckled when I saw the add on “sheave” on the hardnose. The tractor had/has a LeTourneau blade set up for it.
Seller didn’t know what it was for either, and laughed as well. Poor man’s guide for blade height? Any guesses? JM

Cable blade hardnose. Most U frames have mounts for either one. My D6 has the same cable hardnose. I am looking for a Hyd Hardnose with pump in CA.

U frame with both attachments, Cable blade driven from front, My D6 that was run from a winch on the rear.

   

If you look closely, there is a tiny sheave for a rope, not the big one…JM

This is the D6 that we dropped a trans in out in Don's front yard. Turned out to be a nice tractor. Currently I am rebuilding the battery box to house a 12v group 24 battery. The factory light sw, ammeter, and circuit breaker were retained. I have decided not to loop the circuit breaker into the light circuit and will be using a flat automotive fuse instead until I work out the proper amperage draw expected. The battery box bottom and 6v brackets were rotten. Made a new bottom exact to the original. I bought a stainless battery tray and top clamp from Autozone for 33  bucks. Gonna have to shorten the tray as the online pic did not give the length and it is for a group 27F bat. Oh well, won't see it with the battery in place and a tiny tig weld will not be an issue. I also replaced the missing lid bolts with 1/4" studs. Fine thread on the box end and coarse on the nut end to fit the plastic thumb nuts with brass inserts I got from Lowes. Sure makes putting the lid on easy. Fancy knurled thumb nuts will give it a factory look. Used a jam nut to keep the studs in the box. The pony rope starts easily and now that the pony starter has been rebuilt including the belt drive unit the button start is great. I will say, take a good look at the pully drive before you pull it apart otherwise you will destroy it. It pushes apart. Do not try to pull it apart. By the time I was done it took three days with a press to true up the damage . Less than $20 for now bearings. Last week I scored a Delco generator that someone built. Had the rebuild date and new field numbers stamped on the outside. The Delco only puts out 19 Amps, so the 40 Amp American Bosch I took off will get a 12v treatment as soon as I can identify parts needed. In the end I will build a 24V alternator conversion to go with the 24V starter on the main engine. I am keeping the pony. Once I get the big generator back on I will drive the 24v starter switch with a series parallel switch until I go 24v.. The factory light switch posed a puzzle. It would not turn. I took the back off and found out the pot metal shaft was bent. I secured the switch by the threaded mount and pushed the shaft from housing with the press and it trued up the shaft. The switch was reassembled and all was great until I found that I could not get the screw terminals loose. Ten brands of get loose later and no dice. Tonight the answer struck.. A 7mm wrench was put in the vice to hold the lug on the light switch to counter the torque I applied to the screws with a pair of high leverage pliers. One the screws popped loose a screw driver took them right out. A little clean up with a file and the screws are back in. Next week we will be swapping the lights to 12v. Oddly this tractor had low/high beam lamps in the rear and single beam up front, guess they drove it backwards a lot??

Extra pulley block probably for a rope that operator can pull on for faster blade lift in a tricky spot. Maybe not.
Photo is a quizz for who can spot the extra pulley??

OK I see the extra pully now. Look for holes that match up with these pics. Safety first ya know